johnj92131

Why monkey around with a broken 25 year old tank when you can get a new tank for less than $150? Fix the problem the right way the first time. Then spend your time on something else!

The harness or more correctly the relay harness upgrade works by delivering more voltage directly to the existing lamps. That higher voltage, shorter wire path means more light output from what ever your existing lamps are. Other paths to better lights? You can improve the focus of the headlight lens. That helps concentrate the existing light in places that you need to see. Example? European E-Code lights. Huge improvement when you actually deliver the light to where you need it. Did this upgrade on my VW Passat and then added the relay harness. It works great. When I get home I will add a link to a great site with lighting upgrade information. Edit: Here is a great site for the How and WHY of lighting upgrade information- http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html

There are two U.S. Senators who were not elected as Democrats or Republicans, rather as independents (small i). Both of those gentlemen won a significant office without the 2 major parties. Does this count as a 3rd party? Or are you looking for someone actually claiming to be a specific party name, i.e. "Green Party/American Independent Party/etc."?

You have an 88 Comanche so I would be inclined to go with the 89 Cherokee. Lots of extra parts you could directly swap into the truck or hold onto as spares. Not so much with the 99 Cherokee. All the wiring is different, the transmission has different electrical and sensor requirements. Just a whole bunch more work. On the plus sided is the 99 core 4.0 engine. Not enough to tip the balance IMHO. And with the 89, you have the ecu. If you take the 99 you have to source a renix automatic ecu from someplace.

Still have some of my dad's Craftsman stuff from late 1950's and 60's. No quality problems with them. Now, the stuff Sears sells with the Craftsman name today...

Would be interested in the pistons you used. Looks like a bigger dish than stock - perhaps Hesco pistons for the supercharged engine? I still need to figure out what I want to do for pistons in my stroker build. Know I want to keep a stock cam shaft, just for reliability if nothing else. Looks like Hesco roller rockers also?

Pete: I really like this modification!! Works great for a road trip when the wife wants/needs to stop every 50 miles for a "potty break". Just use the bucket and keep on moving!!

that is likely in our future. :thumbsup: Good news! The sooner the better and all that stuff!

I cannot tell you how many times I have done the same.....passed up what I wanted for one reason or the other. The 'I'll get it later' or 'another one will come along'........never seems to happen. If you want it....get it now. Yes I know. But it was raining in the Bay Area when I got up and this Southern California kid might melt in the rain. So I left a near perfect Comanche tailgate (I have 3 anyway), a near perfect rear factor step bumper, an overhead console, a pair of Comanche bucket seats, a very good set of XJ seats, and some fancy door cards with wood trim and jensen speakers. In addition there were two Comanche emergency brake setups, 1 spare tire winch and 2 rear load sensors for the brakes. Besides, I might have been killed when I got home with all that stuff. I did get the full dash board assembly, which is what I really wanted (not need - wanted) This was my second trip to the Bay Area in 8 days. That is about 2000 miles of driving all by my lonesome. And 4 nights in hotels out of 8 days. All for my hobby. Tried to get Anita to come along, but she didn't think it would have been fun to go to a Junk Yard - imagine that. I don't think she has gotten over the time we stopped at a Junk Yard in Waco, Texas and I filled her car up with salvage parts - something about the bumper I put on the dashboard to the back of the rear seat and insisted we drive home 1200 miles with it like that way.

I had wanted to do this several years ago. Even looked at the doors side by side and tried to fit the door cards. As I recall, even IF all the holes were not a problem (and they are), I think even the area by the mirrors are different on the door cards. I had figured out how to solve all the holes so I could use the early door cards when I spotted the problem with the door cards near the mirrors. That is when I dropped the idea. edit is: "IF" added to second line

Thanks Jeep Driver. Sounds like I will leave it on the car. I am a long way from home and have an 8+ hour drive today.

I am interested in knowing the price for the intake manifold. Want/Need one for my stroker build. Thanks

Going back to a Pick N Pull this morning for a few more items. One thing is a nice steering wheel from a 93 Country edition. Need some quick instruction on steering wheel removal. What size nut holds the wheel on? My tools are limited to small sockets, 17 or 19 mm wrench and a very large Crescent wrench. Yes Have an assortment of screw drivers and a big hammer.

What year or generation Ranger are you talking about?

Looks nice Do the backs tilt forward for access behind the seat? Now if they came in a nice gray leather....

Always looking for better, more comfortable seats for a long drive! Have some Grand Cherokee seats in the garage now in the process of fitting for the MJ. Are Ranger and Explorer seats better for a long trip? Looking forward to the seat measurement.

Please do send pictures!! email johnj92131@yahoo.com I could really use the pictures. Think I am going back to the JY tomorrow or Friday. The JY is an 8 hour drive away, so this will be a whole weekend salvage trip and the longest trip I have ever taken in the Comanche by 200 miles each way. Assume once the bolts are removed the vent will slide or pull out of the heater box?? Heater core has never been changed in the 8 years I have had the truck. Heater has only been used to run the defrosters when windshield is fogged up. When/if the heater core starts leaking, I will bypass the heater core and run like that for a while. Now the radiator has been changed twice in 8 years. And will likely need it again in less than 5 years. Thank you for the assistance!

Good information, Thank You. So if I get time, I will try to practice dash removal with one of the Comanche trucks I found in local yards. That is if they are still there and they may be gone by now. Still need to figure out how to remove & replace defroster vent. Anyone know about that?

OK. I see the cut off now. So you have a bare/open end right now? Do you have any distance measurements to duplicate your cut? Again, many thanks for your pictures.

True story, but I'll enjoy the lower prices. Time to look at heating oil! Hard to get excited over $3.00/gal for gas. Been buying gas for 35 years & I remember when ... I used to fill my car up for $3.00 and that was with Premium. My then new 69 Corvair had a 14 gallon tank. $.249 or .239 for Premium. Drove out of a gas station once rather than pay $.389 a gallon for Premium. That was in 1972.

Daryl - Great product support!!!

I need to replace the plastic defroster vent right at the bottom of the windshield because mine is cracked in at least 3 places. Also plan to replace the entire dash at the same time because I found a near perfect one from a 93 XJ. Read and made a copy of this dash removal How To thread: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/dash-removal-35444/ My problem is I do not see where the plastic defroster vent comes out. I seem to have missed it - Can someone who has done this point me in the right direction? Thanks,

This one has been for sale for a long time. Sometimes on the San Diego CL, think from a used dealer in Chula Vista or National City.

Pete, Any chance of getting more disk space so we could host pictures on this site. Too many times I see old DIY articles with great information, but the pictures have been moved from the original host site, so they are lost. Even if we could just do it for the DIY articles It would be great. Thanks,

If you really want to do a Cummins diesel swap, look at the smaller 3.3 engine. Think the weight is around 600 lbs vs the 800+ for the 4BT. Now I think the really "smart" diesel conversion is the VW 1.9 TDI engine. 90 hp and 150 ft/lbs stock. Spend $300 for a chip tune and you are at 120 hp and 225 ft/lbs. Plus the engine only weighs 350 lbs. Get an adapter plate to a Toyota transmission and you are good for a whole lot less $$ than a Cummins. Want more power, then change the turbo and injectors. That would get you to 225 hp and 380 ft/lbs with the 1.9 TDI engine. Or do a MB 5 cylinder diesel conversion for more $$ than the VW but still way less than the Cummins. and the MB engine is even more bullet proof than the 4.0. For the MB, the truck needs to be raised a couple of inches for clearance. $10K with a rebuilt MB engine. Look at $20K for the Cummins Yes, I have toyed with a diesel sway for several years. But it is a problem in California.