johnj92131

I see 4 Comanche trucks on Albq. CL right now. Which ad was it? Bet it was this one just from the tone of the ad: http://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/5695943053.html You must have been wasting his time to say that "You are looking for the right one", Clearly he figured his was not the "right one", since his did not have A/C. BTW, lots of Comanche trucks came with Air - mine included and it was a base truck with a bench seat and rubber floors.

Just took a quick look at their Ebay store - saw a couple of different, same side in and out coolers on the first 3 or 4 pages of their store. Most seem 2.75 to 3 inches thick.

Guys on the TDIClub who are doing diesel truck conversions seem to like a "taco-taco" intercoolers. Understand the seller goes by the name "taco-taco" on Ebay. I look for a link if you like? Did that chip happen just after I left meeting you Thursday?

Looks good Bo. Just give it some more time - then coat the inside of the tank. It should be very good for years after that. How about measuring the O.D. of the vent tube inside the tank for me? I suspect it will be about 9/16 inch. Also would like to know how far the vent comes down from the top of the tank. See my p.m.

Thanks for the pictures! Went thru my old emails and I had a couple of pics from and old ad - a couple of owners back also. Anyway, I sent of the money via PayPal. Figured I had very little to loose at $350 Canadian - $279 U.S. is very close to scrap value. Somebody would be interested in just the 4.10 rear axle for close to half the cost of the truck. I will get it back home and register it in California. Then we can look at a TDI engine conversion.

If I had a place to park it for some time, I would buy it. How far is it from you? Any chance you could look at it? It's about 8-10 hours of driving and a 2~ hour ferry ride and another 30-45 minutes of driving after that, assuming it's actually in Victoria. I don't live in the part of BC that anyone else does. :rotf: There's a reason I didn't make the trip to get it before. The previous owner sent me a bunch of pictures. I'd have to see if I still have them. Love to know anything about the truck you found out! My email is: johnj92131@yahoo.com Is this the same Diesel MJ that has been reported sold 3 or so different times in B.C. over the last 2 or 3 years? Got a reply from the seller and will call him Monday. Google Maps says I am 22.5 hours away from Victoria, including ferry trip from Port Angeles to Victoria.

Sent him an email. Lets see if I get a reply. Fingers Crossed.

If I had a place to park it for some time, I would buy it. How far is it from you? Any chance you could look at it?

Hey Bo, before you scrap it, give me a shout. I want to play with the tank to see about raising the vent for more capacity like the go-jeep article. Really don't want to screw up my 91 tank with an experiment.

The 64 Buick 300 cu. in. V8 had an iron block and aluminum heads. Weight was up around 80 lbs from the 215 aluminum engine. So the iron block had a different expansion rate than the aluminum heads. They ran great back in the day for many miles. Suspect a poor prior mechanic was the cause of your over heating problemThe 300 inch crank is an easy way to get more cubic inches in the aluminum 215 engine. An old Corvair buddy of mine still has his 1966 Corvair with a 215 cubic inch Olds version of this engine after all these years. It was a great conversion. Smooth and QUIET on the highway. This would be a great conversion for the MJ, the 215 is even 50 lbs lighter than the GM 2.8 V6 engine.

So where did you find this stuff and how much did it cost for the gallon? I "assume" it is a mild acid like phosphoric acid? Like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Miracle-Sealants-32-oz-Fast-Acting-Phosphoric-Acid-Cleaner-CON-CLE-QT-SG/100672861?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D23-Carpet%7c&gclid=CMeYgb2H9M0CFc-FfgodpxAKyw&gclsrc=aw.ds

The thing to remember here is that too much fuel heats the piston to the point where it melts. Black smoke means unburned fuel going out the tail pipe. More importantly, you still have combustion going on in the hot exhaust gas. That pushes the temps at the turbo to 1600+ F and the turbo fails like a hand grenade. Measuring temperature post turbo is not going to tell you anything about getting too hot for the piston or for the turbo. The turbo on my Passat TDI is tapped for an EGT on the hot side of the turbo. That is where Garrett put the EGT probe port from the factory turbocharger so that the hottest gas entering the turbo is getting measured.

"Synthetic" oils tend to last longer in more extreme conditions than "conventional" oils. Question is: Do you operate in extreme conditions? Frankly, I don't think so. Use a full synthetic if you want to. Or use a good conventional oil like Shell Rotella. Change it every 5000 miles or so. Personally, I have never liked the Amsol Marketing hype. Way too much fear mongering and a way too expensive product for me. I do not know of a single O.E.M. that says use only Amsol products. The large auto makers all do WAY more testing than Amsol can possibly do. Just take a look at the oil requirements from the large German car makers. They have no problem making specific specification requirements for certain of their engines. None of them spec Amsol. AND Amsol does not meet their requirements. Who knows more about engines: BMW, etc or Amsol? Honda or Amsol?

If you have to get a new ring and pinion anyway, my suggestion would be 4.10 rather than 3.73 - Why? 3.55 to 3.73 is only a 4.2% change. Your change in tire size from 225/75 x 15 to 235/75 x 15 was a 2% change. The change from 3.55 to 4.10 is 15.4% And if I remember right, Don reported about 1 or 2 mpg improvement on his 91 when he changed from 3.55 to 4.10 rear end. I don't think you will feel any change in the real world with 3.73 gears.

Yep, Gas to Diesel is not going to get approved, no matter if you wanted to put a 2016 Mercedes diesel in the 86. Only thing you can do is find a OEM Diesel Comanche and swap in the 6.2 - But have to think that would be one big heavy front end.

WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN HIDING THIS WHOLE TIME?! Partial answers in post 5 this old thread: http://comancheclub.com/topic/26645-hornbrod-has-97-doors/?hl=gjeep&do=findComment&comment=274953

The GoJeep how to is for the Cherokee tank, not the MJ tank. Suspect the 5/8 O.D. is the same. Did not think about looking at the rubber vent hose on the outside - GREAT idea! Unfortunately, with the Comanche, I have to drop the tank to get access to modify the vent tube (unlike the Cherokee).

Cruiser, What is the difference between the Renix camshaft and the HO camshaft? Is it just timing for the open and close? The Renix era engine seems to have it's torque peak at a much lower (and truck friendly) rpm. Also, do you know what the different smog standards (if any) that were required when the H.O. came out in 1991 vs 87-90? Do understand the H.O. engine has fewer smog add on parts.

Anyone have a Comanche gas tanks out of the truck that could give me a measurement of the internal tank vent diameter? Also, how much room is there from the vent to the top of the tank. I am thinking about raising the vent inside the tank to gain more tank fuel capacity like Go Jeep did with his Cherokee here: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoFuelTank.htm Any measurements would let get a head start on this little project. Thanks. JJ

The interior panel has been one of my hangups the 97+ doors. I have wondered if it was practical/possible to graft the early interior sheet metal onto the late door. That would allow use of my current great looking interior panel on a one piece window. Since I have power windows and door locks now, I would not have to worry about the windows. Not sure about the door handles, but they may be a small problem on the 97 door latch. So I would suggest you buy a 97+ door and an early door to experiment and learn with also. Looking forward to hearing what you learn.

Yea, getting old does kind of suck. But, consider the alternative.... laparoscopic surgery is quit amazing. I had a hernia repair a couple years ago and shoulder surgery earlier this year. Both cases the recovery was quicker than I expected and quite pain free. So take care, do what the Dr. tells you (mostly) and take care of yourself.

Check out the jeepstrokers site. Lots of good information there. Including some flow tests on the Edelbrock head. It is no better than the stock H.O. head with similar porting. As for the "modern combustion chamber", the problem is you need to make a special piston to match the head. Don't know that it has been done yet. You have the pistons .020 in the hole - that will up the octane requirement for the engine. Better to run flush with the block or +0.008 over the block. With the .043 gasket, that puts the the quench at .035 and reduces the engine octane requirement. Do spend some time on the jeepstrokers site. Lots of good information there about what works and what doesn't.

I have a pair of Grand Cherokee seats in my MJ. They are more comfortable than the MJ/XJ buckets and have a tilt adjustment built into the seats. Used the tilt mechanism from 95 XJ 2 door seats to convert the GC seats into tilt forward seats, so my seats now tilt forward and backwards as needed. Best part is they cost me WAY less than the $600 you plan to spend on seats. And there are tons of Grand Cherokees in the junk yards - you can get power seats if you want that also for the same money. Just takes some effort to wire them in to your MJ. There are also several write ups in the DIY section with all the information you will need on this conversion.

Here is one done on a Comanche that belongs to a Comanche Club member: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/body-chassis/154-0901-jeep-cherokee-xj-door-upgade/ Beware that electrical wiring colors are different for different years of the Comanche. There are wiring diagrams here on the Comanche Club site. I have done the swap on my 91 Comanche using doors from a 91/92 XJ.

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