BLHTAZ

The physical changing of hte motors is not hard, but making all the later model electronics work is going to be a pretty tough job...at least to someone like me that knows VERY little about electronics. Going to an HO set-up from Renix is a nightmare that I would not want to get in to. I would much rather just pull the head and repair the problem. Not a terribly difficult job, and definitely much easier than a complete swap. Why not just take the entire wiring harness and associated electronics/sensors from the '96 ZJ? Because it doesn't stop there. You will have to do some major wiring work to adapt the dash, fuel pump, lights, and everything about the truck to the newer style harness. It's not just changing the engine electronics when you do something like this...you have to consider almost every part of the trucks wiring, unfortunately.

That's not a good idea. You are going to have oil all over your engine by doing that :ack: The newer model VC may help, but your problem could be (if high mileage and not maintained well) that the rings are bad and you are experiencing blow-by. If that is the case, then some major engine work is going to be in order. Let's hope the VC trick works for you too. :cheers:

I know that you have lost out on the donor you were wanting, but I just wanted to say that I see absolutley no advantage in doing this type of job for the reasons that you are giving. I own both 4.0L HO, and 4.0L Renix Jeeps...there is not enough difference between the two to make a big job like this sensible. If you have money and time to throw away, and just really want to do it, then by all means go for it. :cheers: If you just want a little more "get-up-and-go", throw your money in to some new gears for the axles :thumbsup: .

The physical changing of hte motors is not hard, but making all the later model electronics work is going to be a pretty tough job...at least to someone like me that knows VERY little about electronics. Going to an HO set-up from Renix is a nightmare that I would not want to get in to. I would much rather just pull the head and repair the problem. Not a terribly difficult job, and definitely much easier than a complete swap.

Redneck word of the day: OBAMA How to use: I bought me a case a beer and I'ma gonna drink it OBAMA self.

I bought a cheapo $6 or $8 generic bottle at autozone and it came with instructions on how to properly install it. :thumbsup:

An overflow bottle should be used with these tanks, though. It's not cool to just run a tube to the ground and be dumping coolant out like that. This tank creates an open system that will have overflow needing to be recovered. The Macs tank is a replacement for your plastic bottle, but if I remember right, you have to get some fittings from a hardware store to adapt the hoses to the metal tank.

The Macs tank will essentially make it an open system, as it uses a radiator cap, and will require that you install an overflow bottle as well.

Please don't get me wrong...it's not that the input "doesn't matter", as it should be as close to 5.0v as possible, but it's not going to be perfect on any of them. The output is what you are adjusting to keep it at .8v. If the input is significantly off from 5.0v, then you should be looking in to that as well. The small variances on input posted here so far should not make a difference. :cheers:

I don't see the big deal. It's a little bunch of guys playing a childs game. Brush them under the carpet and go on with life...it's not worth my time to worry about.

No...they do not interchange.

I think everyone is missing the point. No matter what the input voltage, 5.0, 4.8 or 5.2, the output should be .8v. The percentage stuff needs to be forgotten as it is not right. Mine has an input of 4.8v, but when adjusted to the proper output of .8v, it runs the best. .8v is 16% of 5.0v. - The voltage "difference" in that equation is 80% ;)

This is what at least a couple of guys on here have already done. It is the easiest way to change to an open system :thumbsup: . I did it the hard way by changing the radiator because I didn't know about these at the time.

First I have heard of it... :dunno: I don't have time to watch or read news. It's nothing but bad news anyway :shake:

One of my favorites... The redneck bra...

That was my thought too. If the timing was out...there would be trouble on more than just one cylinder.

AHHHH... :idea: Chiltons/Haynes - They will lead you down the wrong path 80% of the time :ack: :shake: . They have some good info in them...BUT..very little. This is obviously one of those times when they are useless.

WOW...you must have taken good notes :eek: . I don't recall telling anyone about the combustion chamber cleaner in a long time, although it is some really good stuff. :thumbsup:

Dude...let it go. This thread is not about rednecks... :shake:

Now I'm confused... :hmm: If you are working on the tranny end, it should be a hard steel line that plugs in to the quick connector that is screwed in to the tranny. That is the way all the ones I have seen worked anyway. Sorry, I am all over the place. In that part I was talking about the end at the radiator where the soft end of the line is. I had to go to work, so I will take some pice tomorrow for reference. OK...in that case, yes, that is the quick connect in the end of the rubber line.

Must be a different style than I have seen before. The ones that I know of have all metal internals that you cannot take out without destroying...and they don't just slip out by any means. I just went on to my Chrysler parts look-up and found the repair kits & new "unions" (as they call them), and they are definitely not what I am used to seeing. Good to know that they make them serviceable now :smart:

Now I'm confused... :hmm: If you are working on the tranny end, it should be a hard steel line that plugs in to the quick connector that is screwed in to the tranny. That is the way all the ones I have seen worked anyway.

The ones I am familiar with are a brass connector, about 2 inches long that thread in to the side of the tranny. The other end, where the steel line goes in, has quick disconnect that is built in to the housing that I have never seen any way to rebuild, nor have I ever seen a kit for. I have seen kits for many other quick connectors, but the ones for the tranny lines are very different than most.

They would be worth it to me for my daily driver...even at $275...as long as they are 4.10 :thumbsup:

Where did you get the connectors at Jim? Most dealerships still stock those connectors if you did not get them at a dealership. I have sold plenty of them - never had anyone have any trouble with them. The internals are not replaceable on that type of quick connector, so if yours is not holding the line in, it is defective and should be replaced.