SoloCamo

It's been sitting, waiting for my 19lb Ford 5.0 injectors from precision auto to arrive. I smelled gas from the 1st injector area on cold starts, and have noticed it more frequently. No liquid leaks as far as I can tell, but the vapors are extremely strong in that area so I'm not risking it. This would proably explain the loss of pressure in my fuel system as when I remove my gas cap is never lets off pressure any more.

I'm sure it loved being rolled over, too. :nuts: However, I'm a hypocrite in a sense, because I do love to get my comanche powersliding around turns. However, I save it for the rainy days where losing traction is easy, and you won't get the sudden grip that you could get on dry pavement resulting in a roll over. I am also not lifted, only 2wd, and actually sit slightly lower due to my 235/70/15 tires so I feel it's a much more capable rig for it, even though it's still not the smartest idea around. :thumbsup:

Glad you alright....Hopefully the truck is repairable and your lesson was learned. Don't try to drive hard until you know the limits of the vehicle...obviously you didn't have the experience nor skills to recover it. I mean seriously, a lifted Jeep on sticky 31's with a locker and you are as you say "drifting" around? What did you think would happen? You aren't in tokyo drift man...so just be glad you are ok and no one was hurt by your actions. Now fix it and drive smarter next time :thumbsup: By the way: :needpics:

No offense, but that is one serious hackjob :nuts: Why didn't you just go under the fender instead of ruining it? :huh???:

Insulated my intake tube with some DEI "Cool tape". Should help a lot in the summer with preventing heatsoak.

Because peak torque is about 2400rpms, so 2000-2500rpms is excellent to be around and feels the nicest. The renix motors are not meant to rev, they make all the power down low, and will accelerate better if you keep the rpms under 3000 as well. (Of course I'm not talking 0-60 runs here, but around town) I believe the 91-95 HO made peak torque at 4,000rpm then the 96+ dropped back down to around 3000rpm IIRC. The only downside, at least to me is that it's extremely easy to spin from a stop when you don't mean to with such a low peak torque rpm. But it does make it extremely fun, especially when merging on to a road and you aren't going anywhere trying to feather the peddle for traction :rotfl2:

Well for the longest time I've also noticed that my exhaust will sometimes sound like a Bass that can't handle the load so to speak. That sound when you pump a small bass too loud and it makes a "wahhh" sound. So with that also as evidence I'm going to replace the cat anyways. If it solves my problem, then great. If not, hey a new magnaflow high-flow cat can't hurt. :thumbsup: Thanks for all the help so far everyone! Much appreciated

I was recently laid off from a dealership, but I still have my access to the internet based parts lookup system called Star Parts...that screen shot is from there. Only Chrysler employees have access... ;) Not to go off topic here...but would you mind running my VIN for me if you get the chance? I have absolutely zero original info on my '88...

Glad this thread came up! I always thought I was seeing things :rotf: :doh:

Small update: Motor mounts are in good shape, and under throttle it was not moving enough to cause the fan to hit anything. So that's one down. :chillin: Under further inspection and some long driving it seems that my catalytic converter is on it's way out. It wasn't doing it nearly as bad today and I was revving it quite a bit trying to get the sound. However, when I got home tonight from work I noticed quite a rattle from the middle of the truck. Went underneath with it running and it definitely sounds like something is loose in the exhaust, and the sound is coming from the general area of the cat so I'm assuming it's the cause so that will be my first step. Drivability is fine and I believe the loss of power was all in my head to be honest because it felt great today.

Nothing much anyways...just about 4 seconds of fast driving (more like fishtailing the whole time) on a snow ridden road maybe 15-20 feet wide. With trees on both sides. :nuts: With that kind of driving I smell another Comanche in the junkyard soon.... Especially when it's not even repaired yet suspension wise...one thing goes on you suspension wise and boom right into those trees man. I hope you are atleast running some wider snow tires when you do those runs, not the ones I see in the pic. Regardless, if you intend to continue with this then at least beef up the suspension and raise it slightly to compensate for the things you may not see buried undearth the snow :thumbsup:

That's all fine and good for you (and foolish to say the least), but I prefer preventive maintenance over being stuck out 3 hours from my house because I ignored a potential problem.

You see, it's like a small ticking also, and it sounds like it's coming from the valve cover/manifold area, except with all the other parts going (mainly the clutch fan) I can't really tell. I did have to tighten one of my exhaust manifold bolts though as it was pretty loose, however that was before the noise came into play. I also noticed tonight it barely did it unless about 3/4 on the throttle. It almost sounds underneath me, but again when driving it's extremely hard to tell. I also hear the "ticking" from the exhaust when idling.

Oil pressure gauge = shot. However, I just did an oil change with some Castrol GTX High Mileage 10w-30. Same stuff I've used for all my other changes in the past. This time however, I didn't realize I was a little less than half a quart low due to an increased oil leak and ran it like that for a few days. It has since been topped off. :ack: I wouldn't think being slightly low like that would cause problems, would it? :dunno: I really hope it's nothing internal, as I don't have the tools, time nor money to fix it. :wall:

Hey all... Recently my 4.0L (133k on the clock) has been making a slight knocking noise at idle, that would increase with the RPM's. It wasn't obnoxious and was hardly noticeable when on the road. This would seem to come and go but has became more consistent lately. However, lately under hard acceleration I noticed a very odd and distinct "chopping" sound coming from the engine bay. As if the air is being "chopped" as it gets sucked into the TB. Under normal acceleration it is slightly noticeable, but it becomes extremely present under harder acceleration. It does it 9/10 times as well, so it is very consistent. Possibly a cracked exhaust manifold? I noticed a very slight power loss as well. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! :chillin:

Cleaned the interior extremely well...it smells like a big coconut now :eek: Going to pour some more SeaFoam down the intake tomorrow, then going to change out the spark plugs with some Champion coppers.

Not so much what I did to it, but what I did with it. Fun mini-burnout~ :chillin:

Re-tightened an exhaust manifold bolt which got rid of some of the banging on the front end :chillin: Then while filling up with gas I discovered quite a lot of new leaks under me that were going too fast. Gotta check that out in the morning. :ack: :help:

Re-tightened an exhaust manifold bolt which got rid of some of the banging on the front end :chillin: Then while filling up with gas I discovered quite a lot of new leaks under me that were going too fast. Gotta check that out in the morning. :ack: :help:

Changed the oil, twice :fs1: Was in a rush to go to work and I forgot to put in my new drain plug/washer before filling it up with about 5 quarts of castrol GTX :roll: Ah well, I suppose it was a $16 power flush for the oil :rotfl2:

Changed the oil, twice :fs1: Was in a rush to go to work and I forgot to put in my new drain plug/washer before filling it up with about 5 quarts of castrol GTX :roll: Ah well, I suppose it was a $16 power flush for the oil :rotfl2:

Added some Marvel mystery oil to the gas tank and created a rubber cap for the gas tank cap door so it will stop slamming metal on metal.

I've got what I'm assuming to be an OEM one mine. It has Comanche embedded on it near the cab and is a perfect fit.

Funny, on various forms all the info I've seen is a base Comanche 4 banger 2wd short bed weighed in about 2912lbs. I figure you add about 100-150lbs for the 4.0 and auto. Edit: JP magazine claimed a 2.8 v6, longbed w/ 4x4 weighed 3090lbs

Were you in it? 3400lbs is ridiculously heavy and inaccurate if you are stock.