SoloCamo

All set - thanks everyone again.

Thank you all for the help, just sent him a PM. Very glad to be back, the Comanche has been staring at me with stink eye for years now. Thankfully it's a Florida truck so it's not in bad shape, but the heavy rains have started to cause a lot of surface rust in the engine bay. Really looking forward to hearing that Renix start up again (even if it takes 10 seconds of cranking to fire like nostalgic times) Glad to see the board seems to be in full swing.

Hello all, Very long time no see. Previously under the account 'SoloCamo' - https://comancheclub.com/profile/603-solocamo/content/ However, unfortunately every email and password I can think of from circa 2006 is a no go for me. Is there anyway I can have this account restored by the mods? Please and thank you. Mainly want to start posting again, I've had my 1988 4.0 Shortbed sitting for a few years now (my fault, used to be my daily) and I need to get it running. Currently no spark and no fuel but wanted to get a detailed thread going under my initial account if possible. Thanks for any help it's much appreciated.

Installed a new steering box and lines which tightened up some slop in the steering and fixed what was a waterfall of a leak of power steering. Since I had removed the sway to get to the pitman arm (in which the pitman arm was quite a battle to remove), I thought why not replace my very worn rubber bushing with some greasable polyurethane ones. The overhall highway and steady "high speed" turning has improved so much its ridiculous. Mostly due to my old shot bushing, but those polyurethanes really tightened up the front end

thanks for your advice. the srt4 injectors have a few more pounds than stock, but with a multiple port spray pattern, which allows better atomization. this is a '99 cherokee, my comanche is also '99 cherokee conversion...the srt4 injectors were direct plug and play. you'd have to modify wires to make them work on anything '96 and older. Good to know, I appreciate it. The Ford 19lbs have worked pretty well for me. 4 port spray pattern and very slightly higher flow rate (18.6 vs 19lb). To be quite honest, if anything I run a bit lean at times when it warms up here (Florida). Not to hijack the thread here, but is there a mid range injector? 24lbs is obviously going to be flooding my motor, but I still seem a bit lean on the 19lbs with my intake/exhaust work.

Hell ain't quiet mate. What "performance" are you talking about? Just the Borla? stated multiple times. .030 bore, srt4 injectors, 2001+ intake manifold, 62mm tb, borla header, competition cam. not stock by any means whatsoever. the motor is out of my "utility build" comanche. has 12,000 miles on it. I have been having issues with my inner cochlea and some sounds I just cannot abide. your muffler sounds like the best bet, but I am not prepared to wait multiple weeks to get it...i need this fixed yesterday (migranes just from the noise driving the jeep...no leaks from exhaust, double checked) -Pat I highly suggest running a Magnaflow Turbo muffler. :thumbsup: Got mine for around $50 and running it with a hi-flo cat, ford 19lb injectors, and a heatshielded/cutout airbox with a K&N drop in and it definitely woke up even my practically stock motor which is mostly due to removing the restrictive muffler for the previous mods listed (which are mere jokes in comparison to your motor) The magnaflow does not drone on the highway, and to be quite honest, even with a hi-flow cat is only mild at best around town/daily driving and is hardly louder than stock. However, if you put your foot down, it sounds like a completely different engine is under the hood and mid-top end power has definitely improved, even on my auto Renix with its wonderful 5k redline. Again, the magnaflow is highly recommended by me. Dynomax is good as well with similar characteristics but I personally enjoy the magnaflows's sound a bit better and there was less drone on the highway in comparison. Keep in mind, besides the hi-flow cat, maganaflow muffler, slight intake mods and injectors, my 4.0L is stock, so with your setup I'd imagine it would really sound great and remove that restriction on your power especially seeing what it did for me. Either way, let us know and get some sound clips if possible! Headers and a new downpipe are next on my list for my renix! __ Not to go off topic, but expand on those SRT-4 injectors? I always thought the 24lb ford were ideal for a setup similar to yours and to be quite frank didnt even know the srt-4 were swappable. I used to run a 2003 srt-4, fun car, but too many tickets :chillin:

Installed Champion spark plugs designed for the 1991 HO engine into my 1988 renix motor :thumbsup: Seemed to smooth out my idle slightly and run less rich in comparison to the renix model champions. This may also be because they are one step hotter and the fact that I'm running the 19lb ford injectors

Still no luck...is there anyway the new CPS could have caused this?

Josh Hagen Spring Hill, FL '88 4x2 SWB sportruck 4.0, aw-4, etc (see sig) Asst. customer service manager, part time student

Hmmm not sure myself. Vacuum lines are far from my area of expertise. However, one question is still haunting me. Why is it that when I unplug my tps, I feel zero difference in idle or under load while driving? It's identical with it connected, as it is when it's disco'ed.

It idle at about 600rpm compared to the estimated 1200rpm for about 15 seconds then started dying...it would have died if I didn't remove the block. What does this tell me?

I already have the ford 4-hole 19lb injectors.. Truth be told I noticed a fairly large mpg drop after installing them :ack:

Dumb question here, but how safe is this? I mean do I just spray the general area as it's running, I'm just afraid of it dripping onto the exhaust manifold and well..you know :doh: As long as the engine hasn't heated up yet, the chance of fire is minimal. Another option is to use a propane torch. Turn the gas on low and don't light it. then run the nozzle along the various places that could leak. thanks...will throttle body cleaner do the trick? as I don't have a torch or carb cleaner on hand Also, when I disco the tps the idle and performance when driving is the same as when it was connected. Is that normal?

I replaced that recently, but thanks for the suggestion

Dumb question here, but how safe is this? I mean do I just spray the general area as it's running, I'm just afraid of it dripping onto the exhaust manifold and well..you know :doh: Vacuum lines all seem good....ground wires cleaned and all seemed well. Intake and exhaust manifold bolts were all tight. This did become much more prevalant when the CPS was replaced though....Hmmmm? :hmm: I'm talking it will hold 5mph without any throttle, and it will climb up hills, albeit slowly, as well without me on the gas. Doesn't matter if the temp is at 100* or 210* same high idle either way. I noticed when on cold starts, it will rev up and then drop revs, then up again, in uniform waves, until it warms up slightly and then it's a constant high idle. Also, my electric fan never has kicked on in the 4 years I've owned it and I know I've gotten it well past the point where it should when I had a bad clutch fan so I think it's possibly my CTS is shot? Plus, I seem to get a rough idle when at operating temp of 210*f. Also, In the 4 years I've owned it, the o2 sensor hasn't been replaced as well, but general tuneups have been done multiple times. Judging from the fact that the CTS is the cheapest of the bunch, do you think it would be wise to try that first? I'm strapped on cash here and I've been trying everything within my means the past few days with zero change in idle. :wall: Any and all help is greatly appreciated! :cheers:

Yessir, I disco'd the TPS connection

Agreed. :cheers:

I'm sorry...but how old are you again? ___________ Reading this thread I see two things, immature children posting, and mature adults posting. This is not the kind of environment that this site is about and quite frankly it's disturbing how some are so quick to scream "ban him!" like they ultimately run the show here. The fact of the matter is, it is none of my, nor any of our business here. It will hopefully be resolved by both parties in a proper fashion and that is what I see happening. In the mean time, drop it. What's done is done. I personally hate to see a thread like this on a forum I and many others value so much, especially when it's about a long time member. :cheers:

I'd like to know this as well...I tested the tps connector volts with the ignotion on...and it was perfectly on spec. However, when I unplug it and drive I noticed zero difference in idle, or anything for that matter

I'm not really sure you have the metric ton package until you can confirm that you do have a D44 under there. As far as the tail light goes, no, the XJ ones won't fit without a good deal of fabrication. Best bet is the junkyard or ebay. The window cranks on the other hand are interchangeable. A general rule of thumb is everything Cab forward can be interchanged with an XJ. (there are some minor exceptions, though) Congrats on joining the comanche world though

It does all of the above for me as my daily driver.... Get's me wherever I need to go all the time, hasn't let me down offroad, burns rice when necessary and hauls serious payloads. What more can you ask? :dunno: :D

But isn't a much more aggressive tire worse in the sand? I know what you mean with Sand around here though... Pretty much all my offroading has consisted of fairly deep sand trails. My Kelly Charger 235/70/15's did pretty well considering they are more street orientated. :thumbsup:

Congrats :chillin:

Personally, I would go for some good 235's in your case. You are still going to need some flex room and the 235's guarantee that you won't rub. Plus, less stress on the axle, easier turning, cheaper to replace, etc. :cheers:

Around 13-15mpg around town...and on strictly highway I've seen 20-21mpg. '88 4.0 Auto 2wd I average around 16mpg though, as most of my driving is in town and short trips. :doh: