Keyav8r

Sending units for our trucks are not commercially available. The XJ sending units are not a replacement for the MJ units as the float arm is oriented in the opposite direction. I believe there has been a post on modifying the XJ unit to work in an MJ but I'm not sure it was specific to the 91 model year. I obtained a sending unit from a 91 XJ and mounted the sending element on my 91 MJ pump and sending unit bracket to replace the original unit that had failed. The ohm range is slightly different, but close enough to work. For more accuracy, you could get a fuel gauge from a 91 XJ and replace the gauge in your instrument cluster. As you are looking for a spare, you have time to source the parts from a JY and then do the conversion when your unit fails. I'll locate the post and send the info to you.

The black and the pink (purple) vacuum lines that go through the fire wall just above the AC expansion valve are the lines associated with HVAC. Trace these two in the engine bay and make sure they are connected. One of them (can't remember which and to comfortable to go look) goes to the valve on the heater lines and I believe the other goes to a vacuum source. That blue line has a check valve installed. Pull the cap off and see if there is vacuum when the engine's running. Maybe for cruise control?

johnj92131 - Sorry, didn't notice the brand on the shell. I was in Mobile on business and just happened to check P-a-P stock. Goose - I think it was a SWB but not 100% sure. I used a 91 MJ sending unit to replace the original one in my 91 MJ. Very little difference in the ohm range and bolts right in. Works great and easier to find. Write-up in MJ Tech. If I happen to get back to Mobile while the truck is still there I plan to grab the sending unit for a spare. Edit: Goose - write-up is "Fuel Sending Unit Repair" in MJ Tech posted 02 Feb 2017

I have a set I'll sell if you're interested.

Sport, 2.5L, 4 speed, 2WD, white w/maroon interior, bench seat, fiberglass camper shell - tail lights gone, tail gate rusty with broken handle. Has a bed liner but no tailgate cover.

I'd say the USS BO (pun intended) is appropriately crewed as portrayed above.

Holy cow! $200 for B pillar trim! If I ever see another Comanche at the JY I'm going to strip everything from it and just wait for a sucker, er, I mean fellow MJ afficianado to want something.

I needed to pull the wiper arms on my 2014 Ram and didn't have a puller so I rigged one up in about 30 minutes from stuff in my bolt boxes and a drop from a piece of angle. The Ram arms are splined and held in place by a nut and prying them off doesn't work. I started with a 3/4" flat washer Then marked it to cut it into a "C" shape and tap a couple of 1/4"-20 holes. Next, I cut off a piece of 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle as long as the the washer is wide. Drilled through a couple of 5/16" holes to match the tapped holes in the "C" washer and drilled and tapped a 1/4"-20 hole in the center. Add a 1/4"-20 capscrew in the center threaded hole as the jackscrew. Then run two more, longer 1/4-20 capscrews through the angle and thread them into the "C" washer. To use the puller, slip the "c" washer under the arm and assemble the puller to it with the long capscrews. Snug them up to pull the washer against the underside of the arm. Tighten the center capscrew to pull the arm off the stem. Tip: Take a photo of the way the arm is positioned on the windshield before you pull it so you can line it up correctly when you put it back on. You should be able to guess why I added this tip. Nothing rocket science about this and there's probably a tool at Harbor Freight for this purpose, but I needed one and enjoyed the building process. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Every, and I mean literally every, one of these I've seen posted is around 500 miles away. Now this puppy is on the other side of the known world (figuratively speaking)! Cannot catch a break!

It will help others help you find what you need if you add your location either under your avatar or in your signature. If we know your general location, we may be able to steer you to someone close to you who may have what you're looking for. It will also let us know if you are close enough to pick up parts we may have that are too big to ship economically.

I'm sure we can work something out, based on your apparently bottomless supply of MJ goodies!

Continuing my sending unit repair - I sandblasted the fuel pump/sending unit bracket and painted it with gasoline resistant paint. When my new Bosch fuel pump arrived, I installed on the bracket. The Bosch pump is shorter than the old pump but it comes with a white spacer and two rubber washers to adapt it to the bracket. You'll need to open up the inside diameter of the top clamp and trim 3/16" - 1/4" off the "fins" on the white spacer to get a good fit on the bracket. Sorry, I didn't make photos of those steps but I believe Knucklehead did a write-up with photos on this. Next, I cut the top connector off of the fuel pump wires and spliced them into the original wiring. Then I mounted the "new" sending unit on the bracket (yes, I went back and cleaned up the fuel pump wiring before everything was installed in the tank. Tested the sending unit again just to make sure it still worked. Installed the finished product in the tank with a new gasket and lock ring. After the tank was installed in the truck, this is what my fuel gauge looked like with no fuel in the tank. I poured around 4-1/2 gallons in the tank and tried to start it up but no joy. Couldn't hear the pump running and no fuel to the rail (checked at the Schraeder valve). So, I pulled the pump back out and discovered that I had not completely seated the wiring connector on the pump and it had come loose. Made sure it connected well and tested the pump with a couple of jumpers from the battery. Re-installed it in the tank, cranked the engine for about 5 seconds and it fired up. I poured the rest of the fuel I had drained from the tank (about another 4-1/2 gallons) into the tank, giving me approximately 9 gallons of fuel and this is what my gauge looked like. The photo quality isn't really good, but it's reading a little under 1/2 tank. With this same amount of fuel in the tank, the gauge was reading about 5/8 full before this repair. Hope this helps someone else with a sending unit problem. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have one from a '91 XJ on my workbench. PM me if you're interested and we'll determine if it's economical to ship it to wherever you are. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It feels worse putting it back in. First time I did it I thought it was going to break for sure, but it didn't.

Problem solved. I used my ohmmeter on the fuel pump and had a good ground but no continuity through the pump. Checked the old pump and had continuity through it. Dropped the driveshaft, pulled the pump and found some dumba$$ had not rechecked the connector on the pump and it was loose. Pushed it firmly back in place and pulled on it to make sure it was tightly in place. Did a quick bench power test and the pump ran. So, I put it back in the tank, turned the key and could hear the pump running. Turned the key to start and after 5 seconds or so the engine fired right up. The DA responsible for this unnecessary rework will remain unidentified in an attempt to retain some dignity.

On my old '88 MJ, I mounted it under the pressure bottle bracket.

Make sure the small crescent shaped piece that fits below the steering column is removed before you try to pull the bezel. That piece is missing on some MJs.

If you're talking about the trim bezel that extends across the dash to the radio, it's held in place by four screws in the gauge cluster and some tabs that push in near the radio. Once you have the screws out and the tabs loose you just work the top out towards the steering wheel. It will require a little flexing and a good pull to get it out, but it will come out without breaking. Just take your time and you'll get it out.

I've got a cluster in the garage, probably from a XJ. Don't remember which version but I'll look when I go down there and get back to you. Meant to add - obviously not in south LA area, but we can work something out.

Pete - I'll give the ground a check before pulling the pump. How did you route your dedicated fuel pump ground? Did you ground the tank to the chassis or run it back to the taillight ground?

Somehow, for me, those 10 minute jobs turn into marathons. But, it has to be done. Hmmm, might do the u-joints while I've got the driveshaft down.

Thanks, that confirms my plans. I still have the old pump, which was working when I pulled it to change the sending unit. Hindsight being 20/20, I should have left it alone. But, I thought why not change it while I have it out.

Welcome to the addiction, er, I mean the forum. Looks like you've got a pretty good starting point. Suggestion - add your location under your avatar. Helps if people know where you are when you're looking for parts.

I installed a new Bosch fuel pump 2 weeks back but didn't have time to put fuel in the tank and try to start the truck. I did cycle the key on to check if my sending unit was working and don't remember hearing the pump run. Put about 4 gallons in the tank today, turned the key, no fuel pump noise, fast crank, no start (however, the gauge did register correctly). Tapped an AC hose to the fuel rail, turned the key, fast crank, no fuel from the hose. Disconnected the fuel pump connector to check for voltage to the pump and got an intermittent 8 to 12 volt reading when cranking the engine. Tried swapping relays to see if that helped, but nothing changed. Any ideas of what to,look for? Could I have fried the new pump by letting it run dry? Planning on pulling the pump again next long weekend (2 weeks from now). May try to bench run it just to be sure it works.

Where are you located?