comanchedude

I run whats is called a radius type. (but still a long arm so less binding). ( i don't disagree at all a 3 link can provide better articulation in some rigs) and I would love to see some explanation by a suspension design company on the term "unloading on hill climbs" I have seen this said in many posts but if you research that subject i don't find any such thing? you can have what is called wheel recession, is when the front end of your vehicle is forced upward when the front tires contact a ledge or rock..but this is do to poor link angles not link design type. links need to be parallel to start. if they are at a angle to start then they will continue to increase that angle "hence lifting" the advantage of the 3 link type is it will reduce or eliminate axle bind during articulation depending on the application. that's it. so for that reason it can perform better due to less or no binding. of course it depends on how much articulation you have to start with. with my MJ I can articulate all I need with the system I have and the binding does not stop that in the range I have to work with so its a moot point. the 3 link will change your pinion angle as you cycle the suspension up and down (radius will not) so depending on what type rig your building the difference between the two may not ever be realized. I would agree totally that someone building a professional competition ring will go 3 or most like a triangulated system. but for lifted MJs and XJs I would argue for 90% of the rigs the difference in 3,4 and radius is not a factor that would be realized in actual use. and this is after research of the types and the design functions and ranges of their operation. as for the "unloading" I really have never found that to be a subject on any suspension design site or a subject of concern. just like to see people post factual information that is practical and not make up stuff that just web info. basically most no pro wheelers will not see any return for spending a lot more money on a more complex suspension system so bottom like its like buying a sledge hammer to drive in a tack. just a waste of money. and you CAN research all the info I have posted, I didn't make any of it up. :)

I agree. I have upper and lower converted and it is a great upgrade. I recommend for sure.

yes.. if you have the money get a set of the springs listed in the MJ tech section they may give you a few inch lift for the rear (maybe 3)and they are killer looking springs. the front is easy get springs and control arms and adjustable track bar and longer shocks all around and done.. RC, rustys,RE.BDS, whoever you like best and gets you a good deal.I have run RE.RC,and rustys parts they are worked. if you want to go higher than 3 then I recommend go long arm and soa on rear and be done.. love the utility bed.

Totally cool I think!... have to ditch the huge rear bumper....dammm

If your running it on a 3 in lift it should work great. on Jeeps with taller lifts you get TRE roll. that's the big complaint of this and any similar style linkage. I run the system on my truck and have for several years, My MJ is over 6" lift so I had to change things up. I run a high steer knuckle, you can see in the pic below the the upper tie rod connects directly to the knuckle not the lower TRE.. I like the system and when I bought it I paid 150. so at that price it was a deal. I have replaced all the TREs 1 time in 5 years. so I like the system.

they look good. ..

Yes no mods

I would like to see some documentation to support your information..I have never located any info that gives the strength of the factory CV.. but what I do know is in use on the trail they do prove to be as strong the u joint shafts in my experience. but I have wanted to find some documentation that give the strength of the units. you can find Plenty of statements to the strength but no actual specs or documentation to back them up.

Reg tags in ohio are $55.00. I have custom they are $130.00

Well do you really want to rebuild yourself? Do you have the place time and the tools. It can be fun to learn. You won't save much if any any money if you do it correctly as the machine shop work is costly..well in my area it is. And if you make a mistake well it's on you..if you just want to get your truck back running near new then as suggested you can get a used engine..low miles may be hard to find. Or just order a new reman and you get warranty with that also. But generally if you buy a brand name like Marshall or Atk it would be very rare to have problems as the large reman companies are state of the art in engine remains. It's all about what you want to do if you have a passion to build it yourself then do it.. If not get used or reman . My 2cent

To my knowledge there is 1 style..they may have 3 options ..like Bosch ,carter ect. On the pumps they have the cheaper type and the factory Bosch type witch is a turbin pump..the cheap units use gear or roller type pump..they all will work but for the fuel pump I always recommend the Bosch pumps.thats what I replaced mine with and they are top line..and they cost more expect to pay 70 to 90 for Bosch unit..cheap units are like 20 to 40 ..but I think you should spend the extra bucks if you can on the better pump. Prices are online rock auto ..that's we're I buy most stuff.

I have run them for 3 years running 35 pitbull rockers ..they have held up great.... But some people just break $#!& all the time usually it's the guys who can't control their right foot..ha ha.. The RCV are cool..but at 1k a set its way to much for me..and I don't have the need anyway as I don't break shafts that much and when I do I have a spare and 15 / 20 min later I'm all good.. But they would be the best shaft if you need them..

I did run a cad for couple years till it bent..std shaft will work. you have to remove the inner shaft (duhh right) and there is a seal that you have to replace, search for info on web its there and will provide detail on the seal and retrofit.

Exact parts I run. you will need to remove the abs rings (they will tap off) they cause unit bearing fitment issue on our year units. and you don't need them

can these springs be run without bottom overloads.. without compromising the spring? can 1 leaf be removed like # 3 leaf just run a 2+ 1 .is this type of adjustments advisable or makes no matter to spring integrity? I don't use the truck to haul weight just off-road use. and some road use. Thanks

Thanks for the info

I ran lock rite lasted about 4-5 years .and was worn out.worn were cross shaft goes as well as the teeth. but worked dam well on very tough wheeling. got a Aussie now works just as good. I agree with others just pick up the best deal you can get. they are all designed practically identical. and they all will work well. as for snow I don't get much but small amount I have I just let off gas in turns and its worked fine. or you can shift out of 4x4 and back in when you need to. either way its not been an issue for me.

x2

Maybe you did not understand my question.. I was asking of those who have actually bought and installed them as to what lift they got from the spring... if you don't have first had results on your rig to share then move along... I didn't need a link to a past post that did not answer my question if it had I would not ask .. simply put if people have bought and installed these and post up what lift they think they got then i can make a educated decision as to what the average is among those who post up actual results . i will make the determination as to weather i can use these or not in my application. and i would not decide that based on a vague post as to 1.5n to 3" lift. i want actual results. as much as i want to buy these i can't accommodate more than 1" of lift above what i am at running factory 4x4 springs in soa configuration.

I run the RC long arm system . love it. I upgraded the joints and the lower axle bushings to the new style Clevie type busing they use now. very nice system. I can't comment on advantage or disadvantage of 3, 4 or radius as all the reading on the subject does not provide any advantage for me. the system I have works perfect on and off road. as for cross member I have only removed tranny and or transfer case 1 time in 8 years so removable section on cross member is of no concern to me. what i like is the long arm upgrade was around $400.00 when i bought it and i have spent $50.00 to up grade joints in the last 4 years. so damn fine system in my opinion. i could have spent 3 to 4 times the money and would not have got any gains for my use.

Wow nice springs.. So who has them and what amount of extra lift did you get? I want them ..but don't need any more lift.

Could be couple things.. Could be throttle position sensor. Could be fuse.one in fuse box..7.5 iir or the one inline to the tranny computer behind the dash.. Check fuses first if that's good and the tranny computer is getting power,then it's most likely the tps. Of course check all connections as well. But the symptoms described usually indicate the tranny computer is offline for one of the above reasons

I run cv joint shafts listed on rock auto under 1996 grand with v8 ..they are like 45.bucks and have lifetime warranty that I have used twice .they will cross ship you a replacement .. Or in my case I have spares and just cross ship units after I swap.. In 3 years I have broke one and one busted boot, they replaced them and covered shipping..can't beat it. I run the cv shafts because they are smoother .and I have found them to be as strong.. And when you break one you don't have to worry about busting ball joints. Cvs just break clean. I run them with 35s. Work great .

I read up on this product and plan to use it this summer.. Looks good. I think it will help make the MJ last much longer, Good pics

I have the RC kit on my MJ over 3 years now and its been a great upgrade , BTW I notched the cab supports .