DREDnot

I'm satisfied with the simple green and a scrub brush. Wipe down with a wet towel and dry

I used to pick up derelicts for a junk yard. One memorable wreck had hundreds of mice up in the a/c ducts and when I got inside to pop the trans into neutral, they all decided to come pouring out of the vents and defrosters onto my lap.

Its tough to tell one from the other as some do not have the L and R. The two I grabbed from a pile of them at AMC 4x4 were both rights upon further inspection. One had the R and the other did not. They both had the same P/N...8955-007-674 What's the p/n of the left side?

Seriously? I never knew that those axles were in any XJ or MJs. I always assumed D35,D44,or 8.25. Learn something new every day :D

I have a four wheeler magazine from 1987 that has a jeep ad for the comanche that shows two different race trucks in action and both have upsidedown grilles

They are different. If you sight down the long edges, you can see that one side is curved and the other is straight. certain years had an "L" and "R" molded in

Taking some combustor parts to heat treat

I found a 10 slot grille and popped it in upside down and didn't notice for a few days. Then I started noticing about four out of ten (pics or on the street ) had the grille upside down.

Same thing just happened to mine. Acted like dead battery. New starter. VROOM.

I actually did some experiments to see what location yielded the best reduction in temperature,airflow over the hood at different speeds,etc.

Most HID, and especially faux "HID" equipped cars seem to throw way to much crazy light in my eyes. If the lights of an oncoming car dazzle your eyes, its junk and not putting the light where it belongs. I've run Hella. I've run IPF. But for my money, I am looking to get some more Cibie E codes for the Comanche. The Cibie light pattern is my favorite. Best coverage and such a sharp cutoff that oncoming traffic sees just enough light to see you. Then if you install some original JEEP fog lights,the SEV Marchal 850 GTs, you will have the ditches covered to almost 180 degrees. Spendy...but so worth it over any of the so called HID http://www.danielsternlighting.com/prod ... ducts.html

I did hood vents on my LJ Rubicon using the "exhauster" vent from the tailgate. All you have to do is cut a hole that is 6"x6 1/2" and snap it in place. It seals and locks in place, and when the engine is off and the fan no longer moves air, the vent's flaps close and seal out water. They cost like $17 at the jeep dealer

This...and a new pulley. I think that should cure it. It seems like you engine was able to rev past the fan that was locked up tighter than design. The belt would scrawl forward to try shortcut past the slower pulley.

I've had death wobble twice myself. Once from a bad tire(tread separation). And once from a worn out track bar bushing. My son's XJ gets DW from completely worn out front suspension. No lift and new,true and balanced 215/75-15 tires. Its the bump you hit that causes the DW

I grabbed some clips at the yard when I upgraded. They are push in and mangle out. They are about a 1/2"tall and 1/4" wide phosphate steel in a plastic outer case Check your doors first. My 88 already had them installed from the factory. It was good news as the clips I pulled were almost FUBAR from the removal process. You need a small pick and some small needlenose pliers to fold in the tab/teeth that hold them in place.

they will fit but were not available from the factory in 99. The last year I can find was 91

Page 75 of the 88 electrical troubleshooting manual. Thats what I assumed sloride scanned for you. If not, thats what you need. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734 I believe there are the same troubleshooting manuals for 87, and 86. I think Ive seen them on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Jeep-Coman ... 03&vxp=mtr

Are you talking about the C100 connector(engine to I/P) The diagram is on page 75, top left corner. Use that and you should be able to find the pinout the hard way using all the other pages. You just have to go through all the systems one at a time and look for the C100 connector in their individual wiring diagrams. It should tell you which grid location within the C100 connector. Its not as convienient as the one you linked to, thats for sure.

On the 2WD, the grease cap interferes with the center cap up front. And.. be prepared for sticker shock if you didn't get the center caps with the wheels.

sure sounds like some of the speedo cables I've had. If you catch it early enough, you can clean and relube it with vaseline. It should pull out of the casing so you can clean the old varnish off and greeze it up. While you have the cluster out, cast your eye on the speedo workings to make sure nothing is dry or gritty or rubbing.

I'm gathering the goodies to do this swap. I will be replacing this switch with the taller sender. This is where its at on my '88 2.5L

What part # filter are you using? Is it a metric thread filter? I thought there were certain year and earlier jeep filters that had a check valve in the block and later filters had the valve built in.

I'm going to have to assume that your 90 is the same as an 88 for this. Find the c102(10 pins) connector behind the drivers side headlight. Disconnect it and clean the contacts. Then check for continuity between the #5 pin(F) and the G103 ground on the drivers side inner fender. Then check for continuity between the #5 pin(M) and the ground prong on both turn/marker sockets. The 1988 electrical troubleshooting manual PDF shows you everything about the wiring loom including connector/ground locations and pinouts. It is a must have.

less than $1200? or less than $150?

don't bother with any pre-made setup. Just find a decent independent muffler shop and have them bend up and hang exactly what you want. It should be around $150 (+/-)