Zebvance

sloride which bulbs did you get?

Looking to replace my instrument cluster lights with LED. I find the stock bulbs pretty dim at night and I'm wanting it bright. Just normal White is what I'm looking for. I have seen a ton of these "kits" that include all the bulbs to do it but I want the opinions of people that have done it. I know it depends on the actual LED bulb that's on the socket that will tell me how bright it is going to be. There is just so many I'm lost. I would also like to upgrade the 4x4 shifter and trans shifter lights. Any help or opinions would be great. Thanks.

This link Should work: http://store.camerontech.io/products/offroad-cpu I went ahead and ordered one. I contacted the guy that makes them and asked if there was a way incorporate a compass into it also. He said there is already one built in but it interferes to much with the other components on the board so it is just not activated. I will be posting a update when I get this in and install it. I have some Ideas for install location but I have to wait till more stuff I ordered comes in to see if it will really work or not.

SO after finding this for the OP, http://store.camerontech.io/products/offroad-cpu and looking at about 100 times over the past couple months I'm coming to the point where its getting hard and harder to talk myself out of it. I know it doesn't have much practical use but I just think it is to cool. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on it tonight.

off topic but if you are interested in producing anything else. I have been in the market for switch panels. or panels with opening for aftermarket gauges. I am looking for panels to fit these specific spots. but have not found anything aftermarket. I imagine you might even be able to produce one panel that will fit in either spot. Something along the Lines of how this one is set up but for the spots I specified…. If you had some I would buy one or two in a heartbeat.

Good point. I wouldn't know.

What about aluminum? if you can get the price down lower with that it would be a nice alternative. Along with small boxes that would fit the handle better instead of using a larger flat rate that is wasting space. you might be able to come down on shipping a bit too.

Texas should not be in the top 10. That's a joke..... A&M should be above UT

I am currently installing serious offroads xj long arm kit and am Having to do similar fabrication to make it fit.

if you are looking at hood shocks, I have been looking at this kit. Its a pretty good deal once you look up the cost of the shocks..... http://www.prime4x4.com/shop/OffRoad-Gear-And-Accessories/Jeep-Cherokee--Comanche-Accessories/p/Jeep-Cherokee--Comanche-8496-Hood-Lift-Kit-x3514481.htm

I would hold out on a 4.0. thats just me.... you will find your self looking for more power after you buy it most likely..

What do you mean by that?

mine does this a lot also

A bit of a quick update, trying to really give the mj the attention it needs. Dropped off the truck at the shop and had them put a new rear main seal in, along with a new oil pan and oil pan gaskets. Buttoned up a few things here and there and then I told them it has started to lose power over the last year but I figured it had to do with the TPS acting up. Just haven’t got around to replacing it. Well here is the bad news. They did a compression test and here are the results. Dry Test Cylinder 1 - 125 psi Cylinder 2 - 100-105 psi Cylinder 3 - 145 psi Cylinder 4 - 130-135 psi Cylinder 5 - 140-145 psi Cylinder 6 -140 psi Then they did a wet test on #2 by putting a few drops of oil in first and it jumped to 150 psi. So that confirms bad ring in #2. He suggested putting some stuff called CRL Restore in it and rocking it. They have used that stuff before and said it really works. They did a compression test after the put it in and #2 read 155-160 psi… Considering the rate at which I drive this thing ( 2000 miles a year),I’m going to rock it with the CRL restore every oil change. The plan is to get a craigslist 4.0 and start building a 4.7 stoker in the garage over a length of time as funds allow. Enough with the bad news and on to the good news. This weekend I have a couple buddies coming to help get the long arms, new dana 30, and 35s on. There is some fabrication that will need to be done to the cross member before we can install it and the motor has shifted sideways a bit from the sketchy trans drop that’s on the truck, so it will need to be man handled some to get it lined up right. Then its bolt on time. There is a lot of work to be done. My goal for the weekend is to have the cross member fabed up and bolted on by the end Sunday. My buddies seem to think we can get the whole lift on. Regardless, progress will be made which Ill be happy with! :banana: :banana:

Not mine. Saw it on Facebook. Interesting....

Thanks! Cool story with that one, I found it on the side of the road broken and took it to my neon guy to fix it. He freaked out about it. Apparently. according to him it is a "One Off" produced the first year MGD was released. He says "One Off" because him and other neon repair aquatints can't find any production info on it or another one like it. Him and 3 other neon repair guys have valued it between $600-$750. Not to bad for finding it on the side of the road and paying $100 to fix it.....

A rule of thumb I always heard was you want your winch to be rated at 1.5 times the weight of the vehicle... for instance. a 4000lb truck (which Is what my mj weighs) should have a 6000 lb winch. I didn't listen to the guy that told me though. Thats why I have a 9500 lb winch....

Fortunately :banana: YES!

I like to collect neon signs. This is my current collection. Missing pictures of some and there is some on the wall to the left that are cut out of the picture. Went to Wimberly Texas this past weekend to propose to my girlfriend of 7 years and ended up coming home with not only a fiance but these two more neons to add to the collection.... :doh:

Last time I looked at the transfer case It was listed as a np231J. I think I remember thinking it was dated 91. I would look but right now the truck is in the shop having the rear main seal, oil pan, and oil pan gasket replaced.

is the axle a vacuum disconnect axle (CAD) ? I had the same problem and just re ran the vacuum lines, my light is triggered by a sensor in the vacuum lines! No the front axle is out of a 2001 xj, which is currently bent and being swapped with a 98 tj d30

Shortly after buying my Comanche 3 years ago I found out my 4x4 light didn't work. Not to long after that I found out that the PO had converted my truck from 2wd to 4wd. SO that would explain why the light indicator doesn't work probably. Well I would like to get it working and I need a parts list of what I need to do so. I'm guessing I just don't have the stock wiring/harness to make it work. Could someone help me figure out what I need to do to make this happen. A wiring schmatic. list of sensors, diagrams, anything will help. I want to make it OEM.

Email some pictures to my email and I'll post them on here for ya if you don't know how to. Zebsvance@gmail.com

I have done your tip when I was replacing a bad headlight switch cruiser. Looked like it helped make the cluster a little brighter but not the voltage drop. Thanks for being a valuable member on the cc/cherokee forum btw.

I also have the same problem