Zebvance

Yea I look at them all the time on craigslist. I know I have seen a few decent ones around

What about ball joints?

If he won't budge on 1800 tell him to take the "or best offer" off his freaking ad.

thanks guys so I guess I just need to go with the cam bolt delete kit.

I am in the middle of putting a 97 tj dana 30 under my mj and i am installing long arms. It looks like l need a cam bolt? at the lower control arm mount of the axle. My other axle does not have this. can some body shed some light on this and some part numbers or where I can order one.

If you look on the boxes is specifically says not to add grease. To much grease will damage them just as to little grease....

Replace. They are cheap enough to do them while you are taking the axles out. Other wise you are going to spend a lot of time replacing them down the road when it could have been avoided. Moogs are always a good brand to go to. They can be had a most auto parts stores. Spicer is also good. Get grease able ones if you can. They last longer but cost a few extra bucks.

So how many you got total now adays Jim?

Well axle is all done so now to start on the lift. Went ahead and mocked up the serious offroad crossmember to see what I'm going to have to do to make it fit. I am going to have to make a new mounting point for it on the frame. So the plan is to get some 1inch by 3 inch channel, weld to studs to it them weld it to the frame. that will be the man mounting location for it. The drill two holes through the side of the frame and bolt it up. I am going to have to trim the crossmember vertical plate that hugs the frame to fit around the cab support. Also It looks like its going to be a serious tight clearance for the drive shaft. So I'm going to notch that part of the cross member and plate it back in. One last thing, The crossmember transfercase skid looks like it might not be deep enough. Looks like the transfercase might come in contact and rest on the skid. I have to do some cutting and test fitting before Ill know for sure though. Jacked the truck up to see where it "should" sit once the new lift. After all this and 8.5 inches of lift it looks as if I'm still going to rub on the street with 35's..... I was really trying to avoid cutting fenders because I didn't want to cut into the bed. They are getting harder and harder to find. First things first though, get the lift on and then go from there... Last thing is front drive shaft. I'm trying to find one that should be able to take the steep angle. From what I have read some xj guys were able to get away with just an extended stock shaft on 8 inches of lift with no problems. Others had bad vibs. I found a driveshaft that should be able to take the angle. A multiple double cardone joint DS. Tom woods makes them. However I am getting mixed reports as to its hwy use... if I have bad vibes with that the only other option I have I believe is to cut off the C's on the axle and rotate back for the pinon angle or do manual locking hubs that way the ds is not spinning in 2wd.

I have been meaning to start this discussion for a while now. What are the benefits of running 93 octane in our 4.0s? Are there any? I have heard many different things from people and I'm trying to figure out what is fact and fiction. To start off I use to have a 97 Firebird Formula (RIP...) with a bolt on modded LT1 in high school. It would run like crap on regular gas and needed 93 octane to run fine. What are the reasons for this? Here are some of the things I have heard about running 93 octane: Better Gas Millage Burns Hotter, therefore helps to burn off excess crud out of the engine Burns Cleaner Gives more Horse power. If so how much? I have filled up my tank in my 88 4.0 mj with 93 octane a couple times now and I couldn't tell much of a difference. Is it doing good things for the engine that can't be felt? I have one last question, as I'm sure most of you have seen, there is octane booster available in a bottle at most if not all local auto parts store. I have even seen some that claim they boost the octane to 108! But why would I need that? What is it doing? Just trying to shed a little knowledge on a subject I don't know much about. All inputs are welcome!

Yea me too. That's going to have to be a cool 15k though....

To my knowledge it's not possible for the tach to be "tuned" it's a sensor that runs off the coil. It detects each time a spark is made. Sounds like you have a issue elsewhere. Are you sure its not really idleing at 1900 rpms? Sounds like a vaccum leak or bad TPS. Off course I don't kno much about the v6s that came in mjs. Just know about the I6 4.0.

Made the big move yet?

Ended up having to get new ones from the dealersship for $7.00 a piece,,,,

Because It was free. Junkyards around me wanted 300+ for a HP

Got some more work done on the Turdy 30 this past weekend. Was able to drill the knuckles and pitman arm for the 1 ton steering. Ball Joints are pressed in and u-joints are also. Went an picked up some hub bearings from advance. Ordered "MOOG" ones but they gave me "National" and didn't have any Moog ones in stock, kinda ticked me off... Don't know much about "National", are they as good as Moog products? Anyway, had to order 2 spindle nut kits from Napa because I misplaced mine, from what I hear you are suppose to replace them every time you take them off anyway. Also lost the bolts that attach the hub bearing assembly to the knuckle. Going to head to fastenal today to get some. Called the dealership and they wanted like 6 bucks per bolt, Smh.... Highway robbery. Waiting on a buddy to get back in town next week to install it all and the lift. Then I will have to measure and have a custom front drive shaft made with multiple cardone joints on it to deal with the steep angle. Also Still need to install the locker in the rear. Hope to have this thing wrapped up by the 1st of July. Reds are starting to hit hard in matagorda bay and its killing me not having a 4wd. comparison of the knuckle drilled out to 7/8ths to accept the 1 ton tie rod ends. Second time I have done this and its not very fun..... Burnt up my Dewalt hammer drill. With the tapered inserts installed. And the axle 95% complete

4 bucks a piece?!?! the 24 bucks for 6 bolts! Thats robbery!

I got the rugged ridge ones. The are awesome. Fit like a glove and hold mud and water and clean off great.

I got the rugged ridge ones. The are awesome. Fit like a glove and hold mud and water and clean off great.

I have been building up a 1998 tj d30 in the garage and just got done putting it all back together. However I seemed to have misplaced the hub bearing bolts (6 total). Anyone know where i can get some?

I have the alloy USA one. Just got done installing them on the new dana 30. I got them at a steal for 130.00. The are very HD and are 4340 chromoly steel.

Saying prayers for you and a good bill a Heath.

It did sell but I went to update it and it was gone. The badlands is not sold

No I didn't. So there is no way to edit it?

And I had one for a warm winch too and it got deleted.