Jump to content

Zebvance

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1283

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Zebvance

  1. Zebvance
    http://bellingham.craigslist.org/pts/4927648263.html http://bellingham.craigslist.org/cto/4944694530.html
  2. Zebvance
    I got one in town and there cheapest one is 500$ what are they smoking! check ebay.
  3. Zebvance
    Are there no junk yards around? They are pretty common.
  4. Zebvance
    BAD! i think i have 4.5 inch of back spacing and 1.25" spacers. I think my coils are sagging to because my rig looks the same heights as a buddies that has a 3 inch lift. Also I don't have sway bars too... so of course that is going to make it worse.
  5. Zebvance
    Just so every one doesn't have to click the link here is the quote: In a low-pinion axle (right) the pinion drives on the stronger, drive side of the ring gear teeth when used in a rear axle application, but on the weaker, coast side when used as a front axle. The high-pinion (reverse cut) axle (left) and gearset applies pressure to the drive side of the gear teeth when used as a front axle, but to the weaker coast side when used as a rear axle. From: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/131-1107-how-axle-gears-work/photo-10.html#ixzz3XPPooP80 Follow us: @fwmag on Twitter | fourwheelermag on Facebook way to rub it in.. lol
  6. Zebvance
    So say I just wanted six inches, what would I do if I already have a 3inch? And also my tires get ally he way up into the fender pretty easily so if I got like 3 more inches, it would give me more articulation. Either get new leaf springs @ 6" lift, Or use stock springs with a SOA. If your goal is 35" tires, You'll want at least 5-6" of lift imo. Would 35s fit with a 4.5inch plus I have bigger fender flares that took off about 2 inches of the body? I have a 5.5" lift, With 33's & Bushwhacker cut-out flares, And its a pretty tight fit. 33s @ 4.5 would work with proper bumpstops, But i don't think i'd do 35's without cutting more off the fender, or lifting more. I have 4.5 inches with 32s and a good bit of back spacing and rub like crazy...
  7. Zebvance
    Really??????? If you are not aware of how your comanche actually is able to move down the road then you don't need to try installing a lift, much less SOA... I tried to help. Not being a @$$ but there is the world of GOOGLE out there. Start researching.... At the end of the day this thing will be on the roads, if you are attempting to modify a vehicle this heavily it needs to be be done by someone who has complete understanding of what they are doing. Otherwise you could be putting other people lives in danger when this thing gets on pavement.... We are here to help by all means but we are not here to cater to pure laziness that is not willing to help themselves. Do some research before, then come over and ask if you don't understand. Chances are a 2 minute search and an article or 2 will answer all the questions you have plus more. It saves us a lot of time.
  8. Zebvance
    Yea, in a rear axle.... HP is stronger for front axles. That's what your article says my mistake I misread.
  9. Zebvance
    http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/131-1107-how-axle-gears-work/photo-10.html according to this a LP is stronger........
  10. Zebvance
    If thats what you want to do them just buy all the front components for a 6 inch lift for a mj/xj. Then get your axle swap kit and just weld the spring perches on top of the axle (S.O.A Spring Over Axle) vs under it (S.U.A Spring Under Axle) After that is done you will need to measure the rear for the correct shock size and buy accordingly. You will also need to check how much yoke is sticking out of the transfer case after your done. If its more than 2 inches you should look into getting the driveshaft extended. The front should be good still. You will also have to extend the rear brake lines and get longer ebrake cables. Also as Jeepman stated before, the 8.8 is a offset diff. Just barely though by a couple inches. Just looking at it you can not tell. So when you are measuring locations to weld the spring perches in place measure from outside in. Not center out.
  11. Zebvance
    its a plate to to cover up the hole where the abs sensor goes into the diff
  12. Zebvance
    yes..... just do SUA if you don't want to lift that much then. You will also need to make or buy a abs block off plate. Some brake line work may have to be done too.
  13. Zebvance
    It's 150$ for the 8.8 and it's already pulled out but it's in a few pieces. How does that sound? I wouldnt. by the time you put it back together you will be out more money than another one out of a junk yard. Installing gears can't cost 300+
  14. Zebvance
    depends on how much your paying for it. I think 95 and up is when they went with 23 spline and disk brakes......
  15. Zebvance
    How fast can you go with 4.10s? I'd like to go at least 70 in mine That is something I can't tell you. I only have 32's on the truck right now and I have been driving on a wore out 4.0 for the past year or two. very weak #2 cylinder so I'm not at full power. It currently stays on a flat highway around 65 mph. With 35's and a healthy engine, I have no idea...
  16. Zebvance
    It was free and I couldn't find a high pinion around for less than $300. Also I was impatient. Believe me now that I sunk that much money in it I regret not getting a high pinion. However they are not weaker, just as strong as a HP. There is no difference at all besides the housing and the reverse cut gears in a high pinion. The only advantage is driveshaft angle. Which I needed most at 8.5 inches of lift...
  17. Zebvance
    For my rear, I ended up putting a 96 explorer 8.8 with disk brakes and 4.10s under mine. I bought the axle for 200 pulled. I bought a truss, and a install kit (spring perches, ubolts, shock mounts,ect) Plus a ABS block off plate. Also Had to buy a flange adapter for the rear drive shaft u joint. installed a sparten locker I also threw all new brake components on the axle at the same time and a fancy diff cover. Other than that everything else was stock. I believe I had around $850 in the swap. For my front I bought a tj front dana 30. Re geared it to 4.10s to match the rear. Put a truss with jonnie joint upper control arm mounts on it, did c gussets and boxed in lower control arm mount and spring buckets. Put a set of chromoly yukon shafts with spicer ujoints, all new seals. Installed a sparten locker, all new brake components and wheel bearings and a diff cover. its about as beef as a dana 30 can get, only thing missing is sleeves (which I didn't feel was necessary with the truss.) and selectable hubs. I think I have around $2200+ in to it. All of this set up to run 35s. After it as all said and done I wish I would have went with 9" and a 44. or one tons. Not for the fact of the strength but more because of the option to install a higher gear ratio that will do justices to the 35's and room to grow. Also I love the look of the wider axles.... Here is a picture......
  18. Zebvance
    man thats going to look great once it is done. Keep up the good work. I wish I had bodywork skills.......
  19. Zebvance
    is it just my eyes? Whats going on with the rear tail lights? Its one being uneven from the other stock? Regardless, That thing is SWEET!
  20. Zebvance
    Agreed. Unless you find a TJ rubicon d44. that should bolt up. But you will be dropping at least a grand on it. Other than that you could do wagoneer dana 44s if you want front and rear. But you have to get the years that have the driver drop front. They are getting harder to find also. And you will have to do a lot of fab work as far as welding on spring perches, coil buckets, shock mounts, control arm mounts, ect.
  21. Zebvance
    but you are still running into the issues of, motor mounts, adapters, the headers having enough clearance against the frame rails, hood clearance.....ect. This is not a DD I will leave the current motor in the truck so I can still move it around in the drive way. I will purchase a 96+ 4.0. I have a buddy that is going to sell me one he has that ran when it was pulled for $200.00. I will also start buying parts as funds allow. Then I will drop it off to the machines for machining and assembly by him. Not to mention The last year gm was using the 350 tbi was 95 I believe? It put out only 200Hp and 300Tq. Why would I go through all that work to swap in a TBI 350 when the stroker would out perform it by atleast 60hp and 20Tq?
  22. Zebvance
    This is a perfect example for the people that think a v8 swap will be a piece of cake. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1007477 Not say its not awesome and that once its done it will be worth all the work. Its just simply more time, money, and work than I want to get into. Too many little hiccups here and there that I don't want to deal with. For me my goal is more power and easiest install. Time is worth more than money (to a reasonable extent) to me at this point. Owning a business and having a full time job plus getting married in less than a year, translates to me not having that much free time, and my goal is to get his thing back on the beach asap. Because when I do have free time, thats where I like to spend it. I appreciate everyone giving their opinions, that's what forums are about, helping others and giving them advice. But for me a 4.0 stroker is the best choice right now.
  23. Zebvance
    could you please explain more about no need for new motor mounts? Also I have a aluminm CFS 3 row radiator and It has a hard time cooling in Texas 100 degree weather on the beach in 4wd. Also? so I really want to replace the engine, trans, and transfer case, just because my engine took a dump? not trying to argue just legit concerns?
  24. Zebvance
    Well Its time I give an update on this. I went ahead and ordered Prime 4x4s switch panel that goes in the place where the clock does. My plan was to cut out a rectangle where the switches are and mount the Camron Cpu there. Well when I got it in I knew that it wouldn’t work. The screen was too big. So I just mounted my rpm gauge in it and threw some switches in it that I know I will need in the future anyway. So then I ordered dirtbound offroads switch panel that goes where the little coin tray is under the ash tray. As I already had their ashtray switch panel I figured it would match nicely. However I ordered the panel blank with no holes so I could mount it how I pleased. I also mounted a digital volt meter beside it. I wasn’t the best at cutting out straight clean holes to mount them so I just cut some black vinyl to stick on it and clean it up. I would like to make some sort of bezel for it in the future so it looks cleaner. Unless someone knows of one that is already made for this pretty common LED screen. As for my experience with it: Where it is located I have it reading temp’s as high as 120 degrees running down the highway. I’m guessing all the heat something from the tunnel. Also, I got the red led screen, which I’m not very happy with it. It is not very bright. I wish I would have got the white Led. Other than that it is working nicely. Here are the pictures.
  25. Zebvance
    Thanks!!!
×
×
  • Create New...