Zebvance

Now on to the bad news. I did all that work in preparation to take the truck camping at Llano State Park in Junction, Texas about 5 hours away. I got done with all the work on Wednesday and planned on driving the truck around for a couple of days to give it a shake down before I took it on the trip. With all the work that had just been done to it I thought I needed to. New rear main seal, distributor, engine ground, ground and power cables to the starter and alternator, and then of course all the upgrades I did inside. Well the thing was finally not leaking a drop of oil. Sure enough, drove the truck to work Thursday morning, came out to it to go to lunch and noticed a oil leak. I immediately took it back to Car Docs hoping that they just didn’t do a good job installing the rear main seal and it would be covered under warranty. They called me back and said that both the rear main seal and distributer gasket was leaking again. He said the remembered about the low compression in cylinder #2 and decided to do what they called a “pressure” test and run it up the road. They told me that before he hit 30mph the crank case pressure was up to 3 PSI. They said they won’t replace the rear main seal again because the crank case pressure build up from the worn cylinder rings was the cause of blowing out the seals again. To me it adds up when I think about it. Over the past two years every time I would replace a leaky gasket or seal and new leak would pop up from a place that was not previously leaking. I ended up not risking taking the truck on the trip. But this past weekend I did attempt to see how bad the issue really was. I drove it to my buddies deer lease 100 miles away in Sheridan, Texas. On the way there the rear main seal and distributor gasket leaks got worse and worse, I also believe I developed another leak at the oil pan. From the trip there and back I lost well over a quart of oil. Not to mention I averaged 11.8 MPG on the highway… I hate to say it but I have to call it. The engine is done for. No more Band-Aids. I still plain on getting the lift done to finish that project. After that I am going to start looking for a 96+ motor to build a stroker. I will buy the parts as funds allow and then drop the donor motor and parts off to a very reputable machinist that I trust doing the machining and assembly in my home town. I plan on leaving the current engine in the truck until the stroker is built and ready to drop in. Since it still can move under its own power I feel it’s best to do that if I need to move the truck from time to time. I did consider a V8 swap also, but there are a lot things that offset the benefits of how cheaply I can get a SBC. Here is a list of major concerns with that. - Keeping it cool. I have seen plenty of these swaps done on Cherokees and I always hear the frustrating stories of trying to keep it cool in the small engine bay. The only way I have seen it work is with a $1000+ custom cooling set up. Which I don’t want to have to deal with - Firewall Modifications A good bit of fabrication will have to be done to the firewall to make the V8 fit. - Mounting the Motor It will take custom motor mounts not to mention I would need to plate the unibody around the motor to deal with the additional weight. - Transmission set up 2 options, buy a high dollar adapter plated to keep my current transmission or buy a TH350 and a adapter plate to mount it to the NP231 - Computer Compatibility I don’t want to even look into what it’s going to take to make the renix computer and SBC computer talk to each other. - The want for a fresh engine At the end of the day I want a fresh rebuild. So that will mean I will get the SBC rebuilt regardless. All of these reasons add up to me not perusing it. I think It will end up taking longer to get the truck back running again, cost more than a stroker when it’s all said and done, and be more of a headache. All for what? When the stroker will be putting out the same numbers maybe even better than a stock vortec 5.3 or something. I have started doing research on the renix 4.0 to the 96+ 4.0 HO motor swap and it doesn’t look that bad. The plan is to go with a 96+ because of the better flowing head, intake, exhaust, and bigger throttle body. I will probably get work done on the head or buy one that has already been ported and polished along with a better valve train. They run about $600-750. Or get the new all aluminum head that edelbrock just released for the 4.0, but it runs about $1500.00. In addition I will also have to buy a new header to match up with the 96+ exhaust ports. Also I pain on getting a bored 68mm Throttle body. I want this thing to have plenty of air. As far as fuel goes, I’m going to need to get a better fuel pump and the hesco adjustable fuel pressure regulator along with ford #24lb+ fuel injectors depending on the size of the stroker. I will also like to get an air to fuel ratio gauge to dial it in, but I know they are pricy, if I have that though I should be able to get the mixture right by adjusting the resistance on the MAP sensor. As for the build in all I would really like to stay under $3000.00 in just the motor. I know I can probably add another $1000 in injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, header, and Throttle body. I think these are realistic numbers and might even come out under 4k total. I would love to do a 4.9 stroker but I feel it will be more costly and problematic, so I will most likely just go the route of a 4.7. I haven’t picked out the recipe of the build yet because I want to get deep into some more research. However, I did talk to the person that will be doing the assembly and he said to stay away from Keith Black Pistons and Eagle cranks. Both of their quality has really fallen off. He said his experience with SCAT over the past few years has gotten better and better. I trust this guy because he has been doing this for over 30 years and has built hundreds of motors. Furthermore, from the research I have done I should at minimum be looking at 270HP and 300Tq with a stock 96+ 4.0HO head. I am hoping for more like 300Hp and 330Tq though. Which I think are possible numbers. I’m sure I could attempt to throw this thing together myself and probably save a grand but at the end of the day I am willing to pay more to know it was built right by someone that has a good rep and a tremendous amount of experience. With all that said…. LET THE FUN BEGIN! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: . :MJ 1: . . :MJ 1: . . :MJ 1: . . :MJ 1: .

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I bought all of my lights ( Hanma LEDS) about 2 years ago and have been running them ever since with no issues. I bought all of them through a group buy with local Off road club that I am a member with. I believe I spent about $600 on all of them, but I know Prices have went down since then. I do have 1 complaint about their finish. On the Light bars, the cooling fins have all turn a bronze color, not sure if it is from the heat they produce or the sun. On the dullies the paint is coming off of the cast aluminum housings. I believe though they have fixed these issues. I have some buddies that bought lights from them about a year after I did and are not having these issues. However they still perform great and I am still pleased with them. This is the set up I have: 1- 42" (on roof rack) 1- 20" (on bumper) 2- 2x2 Dullies (on A-pillars made to swivel in any direction.) 4- 6 LED bars 2x7" ( on all 4 corners of roof rack made to swivel in any direction.)

Here ya go. 1998 TJ dana 30- All bearings and seals new Fresh 4.10 gears. (Professionally installed) Spartan Locker ( Professionally installed) Artec truss with Jonnie joints Boxed Lower control arm mounts Artec C gussets Yukon Chormoly Shafts Spicer U joints Alloy USA ball Joints Alloy USA Rock Guard greaseable seals. Knuckles drilled with tapered inserts for 1 ton steering Moog Unit Bearings (Hubs) I have all receipts Everything on this axle is new down to the hub bolts. New Mopar bolts from the dealership. They where $60 alone... $2500.00

How bout do a compression test and that will tell you. I had the same problem.I did the valve cover fix and new ccv harness all around. Stopped getting oil in the air box with a newer style valve cover without flutes. But the compression test ended up with low compression in #2. Drove it more and decided I needed to replace a few seals that were leaking. Rear main seal, oil filter adapter o rings, distributer gasket, valve cover gasket. Every time I replaced a gasket or seal a new leak would start in a area where I previously replaced the gasket that wasn't leaking before. Then I had a shop do what they called a pressure test and they told me the rings were the cause. The crankcase pressure would build up to 3 psi before getting to 30 mph. That's the reason I keep blowing seals. SO its time for a rebuild

If you click on the link you posted. Then go to the 1988 tab. THe mj isted with 100,000 miles is this one http://classiccarslist.com/jeep/29416-1988-jeep-comanche-pioneer-standard-cab-pickup-2-door-4bt-cummins-diesel.html I was able to track it down via VIN. it has a 4BT!!!!!

KEEP THEM COMING!

lol I found that comical.

Looks great, keep up the good work.

you will also have to relocated the spring perches. I went Spring over axle at the same time giving me over 4" of lift. I'm guessing you are going to want to stay Spring under axle though. Here Is mine when I got it and and after I installed it.

yes but they are hard to find. you need to look up the code for the one with the gears you want and LSD. the code will be listed on the axle tag bolted to the diff cover. This is what I did. You should be able to do a Google search and easily come up with the code. You will also want a 96 or 95 and up I think. They came with a higher spline axle and disk brakes. I found a couple with 4.10s and disk brakes in the same junk yard but never found one with LSD and 4.10s. Just the luck of the draw.

You are right. I forgot about that one.

Yes they are, I installed one in my MJ. 1996 explorer 8.8 with factory disk brakes and 4.10 gears for $200 pulled and loaded in my vehicle. The only thing that could have made it better would been to find one with limited slip

the only thing that is close to stock is a for 8.8 out of a explorer. I don know of anything else besides the stock dana 35 or 44.

Next up, I wired up a little boom boom for the trails. I had a hard time finding a subwoofer enclosure small enough to fix behind the seats of the cab. After I finally found one what should fit I had to add some wood to the bottom of the box for it to sit level in the cab. I had a real problem trying to figure out how I was going to secure it and the amp in place without it rolling around. I was tiring to avoid screwing in to the back wall of the cab at all cost. So with some brain storming I came up with a idea. I went to harbor friend and got some of their bar magnets and screwed them to the back of the box. PERFECT! They stick to the wall of the cab and don’t move a inch! I also did the same set up for the amp and put it to the left of the sub. I don’t have any pictures of the amp right now but I’ll try to t get some tonight. That’s not the end though… I have never been a fan of no name cheap electronics but this time I was forced into buying a no name brand because It came with a box that would fit the cab. Well once again I learned my lesson. 3 Days after I installed the 600 watt max “audio pipe” sub on an OLD 300 watt pioneer amp (not bridged), I blew it. Started smelling and them made some god awful racket. I just bought a 1500 watt max Pioneer shallow sub to replace it which I hope to get to tonight.

I’m currently working on a lot of wiring in the cab of the truck which I will post a update of when I’m done. This weekend I plan on taking the truck to Llano State park to go camping for the weekend. This past week I got it inspected, insured, and registered. It’s about a 4.5 hour trip, the longest trip I have ever attempted to take with the truck. Kind of nervous. As soon as I get back I’m ripping the front axle and suspension and going to start on the lift. However, until then I still have some things that I have done over the past few weeks to get this tread 100% up to date. I went ahead and gave the truck a FULL tune up. New plugs, wires, rotor, distributer, cap, and coil. Went a bit overboard on the wires, but I got a good deal on them. They are OML 10mm racing wires. After some research, I realized why I had such bad blow by. The flute stems in the valve cover of the stock renix 4.0 sat way to low, sucking up oil and dumping it into the oil filter, just a bad design. Now, since I recently found I have a bad ring in piston #2 I knew that this would not fix the problem but hopefully help to contain the oil enough to get me by until the stoker build. So I ordered a newer style aftermarket cover that did not have the flutes in it. I have since put about 100 miles on the truck and NO BLOW BY! And here it is all done!

Thanks!!!! Well now you have and keep on looking!

wouldn't have 3 wires if it was. Looks like there is a positive, negative, and signal. I'm thinking its to a light. hood light?

LOL, she is not a huge fan of the mj, She said when it gets a paint job she will like it a lot more. So she will prob be happy not ride in it right now....... WOMEN THEY JUST don't GET IT!

Very cool! I'm also a small business owner (https://www.facebook.com/VanceWoodworking). It takes a certain type of people to do what we do now a days. Me and the old lady will definitely stop by there next time we come through, She loves Fiesta wear.... If you don't mind sending me a PM on the details of your website(who made it, how much it cost) that would be great, I'm trying to get mine up and going now.

Looks great did you happen to look into the panels I was talking about?

Great job bringing that mj back to life! Fellow Texan here. Love the canton area, we got our Jack Russel Terrier from the Market days there in Canton. Very cool thing to go to from time to time.

This past weekend I was able to get the side frame bolts drilled and in. It was a pain in the @$$. 8 drill bits later everything was bolted up. I don’t have pictures but I put a piece of flat bar on the inside of the frame rail and drilled two holes though it to sandwich the fame in between. Figured that would keep the nut from possibly punching through the unibody. I also was able to get my Hazards working again (which have never worked since I have owned the truck. While at it I mounted two new horns but haven’t wired them yet. The old horn is busted. This was all done in the attempt to get it back street legal to get it inspected. However I still have to tighten up my e-brake cable, as it has loosened up since I installed the 8.8. Since it is going to rain this weekend I I’m going to work on replacing dash bulbs with LEDs and wiring up a few other things. Next weekend we are going camping at Llano State Park right outside of junction. I am seriously thinking about taking the Comanche on this road trip. I have made plenty of trips in it to Huntsville, and Matagorda (2.5 hours) but this makes me kind of nervous because it’s a 4.5 hour drive…I also haven’t driven the truck that much over the past year ( maybe 500-1000 miles) but I have replaced a TON of parts… So the plan is try to get all the little things buttoned up this week and next. Insurance, Inspection, registration, Alignment, Washed and probably take it on its first long road trip. After that the next clear weekend I can get some extra hands the new Long arms, axle, trac bar, coils, and shocks, and 35’s are all going on it. I am really excited about getting this thing going this summer. The hardest part (cross member fabrication) is over. Side note: This weekend I noticed the rockers are getting some rot. So I’ll be doing some research on doing some boat sides or 2x6 sliders. I would like to tastefully incorporate a step on them or something. The old lady already complains that it is too tall for her to get into, so when this thing goes up another 4-6 inches she will really be fussy then lol.  

Thanks! :laughin: