Zebvance

Also, Since no one has chimed in to give you what you exactly asked for here is it. Bare minimum parts list to get truck "lifted" with 35" + tires. FRONT -long arms -coil springs -sway bar links -track bar drop bracket -Adjustable track bar -custom made drive shaft -longer brake lines -drop pitman arm -Shocks BACK -Spring Over Axle conversion kit -Your Choice of a lifted leaf pack, blocks, bigger or shackles -Custom made drive shaft -longer brake lines -Slip Yolk Eliminator MOD to the transfer case -LARGE Shocks ADDITIONAL THINGS TO GET THE TRUCK BEFORE TRYING TO SAFELY DRIVE IT! -Dual Diaphragm brake booster and larger master cylinder. -New proportion valve -Both axles geared correctly -If sicking with the Dana 30/35 you will need to dramatically beef them up.... (Sleeves,Truss, Chromaly Axle Shafts, Chromaly Ball Joints. C Gussets) And at that point the 35 is still not strong enough and the 30 is BARELY strong enough for 35's... -Heavy Duty 1 Ton Steering kit I don't think I missed anything, To any one that sees something I missed please feel free to edit the list. To anybody that knows what this stuff costs, there is ALOT of money here....

VERY NICE, My buddy has a GMC like that set up the same way.

I agree with this. I Still have to put the front of my 8+ inch lift on and new front axle with it. I have bee working on it for almost two years. Not at the fastest pace though, I could have had it done with in a year but life gets in the way sometimes. I am just planning on running 35's for now and maybe 37s in the future. You are looking at alot of money if your going to do it right. I went with a built 8.8 in the rear and a VERY BUILT d30 in the front. I probably have close to 3k in the front axle alone. the between the longs arms, various lift parts, money in the rear axle, SYE, and new tires its easliy up to another 5k. And at the end of the day I still have the Stock worn out 4.0 to push the big lift.

adding blocks to a SUA will lower it. :thumbsup: If it was me, I'd be looking at the HellCreek 3" leafs or metric ton leafs and put those on top of the SOA conversion. You are right sir, Had a blonde moment.....

Shouldnt be hard at all to get that in the rear. First off go SOA and get rid of the stock SUA set up. That will net you about 5-6 inches of lift alone. Then you could add a 3 inch lift shackle/or blocks. Also Hell Creek carries a 4.5 inch lift leaf spring for MJ's. So you could Stay SUA and run a larger shackle and blocks to get to 8 inches. I am sitting at about 9 inches of lift in the rear and just went SOA and a large shackle.

The interior shot sure does seem like it doesn't it. I'm surprised he didn't do anything to the engine. Not even a Cold Air Intake... With the way that thing is set up it would be a killer with a stroker in it. Anyway, that read was great! always love reading snippets about the MJ.

That is one sweet little rig! looks like a blast to drive! for some odd reason it somewhat reminds me of a early 90's cosworth awd escort...??? :dunno: don't ask me why. But I have always wanted one. Although the thought of a 4.0 swapped into it is super cool, I think a little diesel would be just as cool if not cooler. If you wanted to go real big but realistic the benz OM617 5 cylinder would be a awesome swap. rolling coal in that little thing would be the bees knees. And not to mention those are easily 500,000 mile motors. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Should I just go to a junkyard and pull off the steering from a zj? No. The only difference is a slightly stronger tie rod (and that's only on the V8 models). It really isn't much of an upgrade. I've seen them bend just as easy as stock XJ rods. As was stated above, the entire stock XJ steering is weak when you go offroad. There are a bunch of companies who make nice 1 ton set-ups. They come with heavy duty TREs and heavy duty drag link and tie rod. You ream out your knuckles and bolt up the new stuff. It's pretty simple, a whole lot stronger, and only costs a couple hundred bucks. He mostly drives on the road, with very little actual offroading. The v8 tie rod is a hell of a lot stronger than the stock xj/mj setup. http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/11060.html This is the OTK 1ton steering i got, If you want i can run over & show you it in person. Yeah, if he stays on the road, it will be fine. But why is he swapping in an 8.8, doing SOA, and considering 35s just to stay on the road :brows: Cause why not? Why do people build up mustangs and camaros and never go to the drag strip?

Should I just go to a junkyard and pull off the steering from a zj? No. The only difference is a slightly stronger tie rod (and that's only on the V8 models). It really isn't much of an upgrade. I've seen them bend just as easy as stock XJ rods. As was stated above, the entire stock XJ steering is weak when you go offroad. There are a bunch of companies who make nice 1 ton set-ups. They come with heavy duty TREs and heavy duty drag link and tie rod. You ream out your knuckles and bolt up the new stuff. It's pretty simple, a whole lot stronger, and only costs a couple hundred bucks. I have this 1 ton set up from serious offroad. about $300. Its about as beef as you can get.

Talking about tie rods, tie rod ends, drag link. stock set up is pretty weak.

Such a clean truck! But my OCD can not stop looking at the not matching fender flares..... :doh: :fs1:

Why would you eventually upgrade to adjustable arms? they are cheaper than the fixed arms with drop brackets and are the RIGHT way to do the lift...... Better ride and offroad performance, along with a more solid set up.... And less work to install. Its a no brainer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-and-Lower-Adjustable-Front-Control-Arms-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Wrangler-TJ-ZJ-/151679591326?fits=Year%3A1988%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3ACherokee&hash=item2350cee39e:g:zk0AAOSwBLlVUtBq&vxp=mtr

I would recommend going with adjustable control arms instead of fixed control arms and drop brackets. For one its cheaper, two it will be a better ride allowing you to dial in axle location according to your exact lift. Three, it allows for more lift or less lift in the future if you want with out having to replace the control arms, just adjust them down or up according to size of lift. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-and-Lower-Adjustable-Front-Control-Arms-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-Wrangler-TJ-ZJ-/151679591326?fits=Year%3A1988%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3ACherokee&hash=item2350cee39e:g:zk0AAOSwBLlVUtBq&vxp=mtr That is a set I found on ebay and they look to be pretty solid for the money. I saw some that were a bit cheaper but didnt look as good as these....

I have the 4.5 inch RC lift up front and have ran it for the past 3 years. Things to note - with sway bars on it is a VERY stiff and bumpy ride, I'm guessing a lot has to do with the angle they put the control arms at. - with sway bars of it floats over stuff very well, almost a mushy feeling - get the kit that has a adjustable track bar, you will need it. - track bar bracket backs out on me once a month and i have to crank down on it to tighten it it. Creates a popping sound under my feet when it is loose. Mostly when I turn.

:bowdown: :bowdown: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :banana: :banana: :eek: :eek: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: :drool: That about sums it up....

One of the perks I have being a engineer. Nobody cares what my face looks like as long as I can answer the questions they need answered, and the money is decent.

how are the wheels in the wheel wells? does the axle look centered looking back and forth?

loosen the sway bar mounts and pull it over to where it is lined up again? I to am having trouble picturing this.

going from tj to tj with in 4 years of make its easy to assume that they should be the same. They probably are. but like I said I would start taking measurements to see what is not the same.

There was a lot of changes on the dana 30 from that time. From CAD housing d30 all the way to the pinion, axles and shafts. Tjs have a different housing than xj/mj. The TJ used a shorter pinion so that means that the center diff itself is not cast the same. So I would not put it out of the question that track bar mount locations were different. Esp because the Tj netted more lift than the mj, Also mounting locations for the track bar are no where near the same. Therefor track bars are going to be diffrent angles and longer/shorter. You might want to start with a tape measure and start comparing. A solution would be a adjustable trac bar. But here is the main question. What did the axles come out of?

sounds like may be a track bar alignment issue...

I haven't shaved since June, and don't plan to until my wedding in April. Its testing me and my future wife's true love for one another... lol :rotfl2:

But wouldn't it be a lot more convenient if it was in a sticky that everyone could refer to. The search option unfortunately doesn't always bring up we are looking for because it might be worded differently or, its there but after searching through the results for a while...

Yea I have a few to share my self. Maybe state the product bought, review that then leave a spot for what vendor you got it from and you experience with them. Cause that makes a big difference to me. Who I'm buying from...

Those are Air Conditioners/ Heaters. They work pretty good to keep it comfortable. Except when Its 110 degrees outside..... the best they can get the garage down to is about 80. Which still feels pretty good when coming in from the heat outside.