Zebvance

depending on the width the engine might fit but might run into problems clearing headers.

isnt that a front wheel drive car and the engine sits sideways?

Know the thread/ pitch?

Its pretty dead on level now. I had bought some adjustable shackles thinking that after the lift in the front the rear would be sagging a little and it would need some more lift in the back to get it level but looks like it leveled out perfect without them. You can tell from the picture that the front axle is sitting a little more back than it should. Need to adjust the upper arms to get the pinion angle right and the lowers to push the axle out more.

Got the steering and sway bars on and tightened everything up for a little test drive to let every settle to see where it sits. It definitely drives like a different truck now. I thought I was pretty close on the length of where the long arms needed to be but looks like I was way off, so is the track bar. Needs a lot more dialing in and a alignment, but one step closer to getting it on the beach for the summer to get the last bit of life out of the motor before It gets a rebuild. Also Went to put the front drive shaft on but couldn't find the bolts or straps, so got some more coming from rock auto, but it looks like the length is still going to be fine and it will work.

Picked up this hitch grill for $30 new in the box. can't wait to use it on the beach and at the deer lease.

I just finished the new lift and axle swap on the mj finally and went to go put the front drive shaft back in and I can't find what I did with the bolts or straps, so I need to order new ones. The front axle is a d30 out of a 97 tj and the transfer case is a np231j out of a 91 yj I think. Can any body help me track down the parts for these? I think I found the bolts that attach the drive shaft to the axle but they are not long enough so It has me wondering if the tj dana 30 set up is different for attaching the drive shaft.

sorry to side-thread, what did you swap from? Auto?

is it just me or does just about every add say it has been deleted or expired

If anybody that is not local and wants to buy the jeep via money order or cashiers check and have you ship the truck or they say they have a shipping company going to pick it up is a scammer. Every scammer that I have came across only works through email also. you can also Google the email address or phone number and usually you will find out if it is a known scammer or not.

Sunday bump

1/4 ton? A standard MJ has a rated payload of over 1400 pounds -- that's a 3/4 ton. The Metric Ton models are rated for a full metric ton, which is 2200 pounds. Which is more than a lot of 3/4 trucks today....

No, Ill try that. The truck still doesn't have the steering finished up yet so Its hard to tell of anything I do will work right now since I can't drive it.

Its defiantly not down shifting. Its very prominent when it down shifts. Its something in addition. I wouldn't out it past a vacuum leak. I have a new vacuum harness on it and am pretty sure everything it good on it but there are a few lines that the PO has capped. I was almost positive they were to the climate control though since that orvis bottle (or whatever you call it) is not were to be found on my truck and the vents won't change from being stuck in defroster mode.

Friday morning bump

I do need to adjust the tps. It is also new. Less than 15 miles on it. The old one was sticking full rev on start up some time. But this issue acts the exact same as when the old one was in. I would "like" to assume that's not the culprit.

Reading that thread is what made me finally post about this issue in the first place. Injectors are new upgraded 4 hole injectors. Done about 4000 miles ago probably. Should have mentioned that I guess.

This has been prominent in my comanche as far as I can remember. It was really noticeable to me when I got my exhaust done (because it was louder). The truck has gotten maybe 5-6k on it for in the past 3 years since the exhaust was put on. When I'm decelerating/ foot off the gas and coming from highway speeds the truck will make several short pulsating revs until I come to a stop. Its hard to explain, so sorry if its difficult to understand. They are all spaced and timed identical maybe every 4-6 seconds or so. The increase in rpms is not a lot. I have a digital tack and it happens almost to quickly for it to register it. But it jumps the rpms about 100-200. The pulses last for about a 1/2 second. Any ideas? Its not effecting the drive-ability that I can tell its just something I noticed that was kind of odd. I do know that it is running super rich. I always have black sut all over my rear truss and very strong smell. I have replaced the IAC (has not been dialed in yet) o2 sensor was done with the exhaust, and new map sensor. I have been getting about 9-10mpg city and 13-14 hwy. Any Ideas 1988 4.0 auto 4x4 pacesetter header to 2.5" exhaust high flow cat magnaflow muffler dumping right after the cab

ugh... as if you could have made your mj any cooler/nicer.... you just did. Thanks now I'm my envy is even stronger for you.

start soaking every bolt with deep creep penetrating oil to make your life easier.

the short beds have the "X" cross brace also.

would this be the reason my wipers are all jumpy or is it the motor going?

Yeah, I'm going to reinforce the frame there because there's a good chance I'll crack it otherwise. Not too worried about the actual install, I've got a lift and all the goodies that come with it. I just want to know for sure what my options are before I put in the work. I'll probably pull the ZJ box today, if it doesn't get used on the MJ, I can always swap it into a muscle car later. Was steering any quicker? I know with all the mods it was probably difficult to tell. Or any idea if it's fixed ratio or variable? If it is faster it was not noticeable. Not sure on fixed or variable. Sorry I don't have more answers for you..

I have a 99 durango box. Bought a rebuilt unit from the parts store. I would not put it on there with out buying or building a reinforcement bracket for it. Many companies make them now. I think I got a JCR one. Also its not a 100% bolt in. It requires some additional spacing between the "frame" and the box. I just stacked grade 8 washers until it fit. Honestly Its prolly worth the money in time and effort to buy a refurbished one and use your stock gear box as a core. Swapping boxes is not fun at all and I would pay to make the work easier. The same I time that I swapped the box I also did serious offroads 1 ton steering swap. I can't go full turn now cause the steering hits my diff cover. so I can't tell you if you gain any turning ratio. All I know is my turning got worst. Alot worst from the upgrades. Mainly because of the steering though. Not the box. I can't tell any difference from the box. It was in fact bigger than the stock box though....

if the pump burned up or stopped working, then there wouldn't be any fluid in the internals of the trans to get burnt when the trans did. the fluid would just be in the pan not circulating when the trans burned up maybe?