Biotex

Drove by this AM and snapped e few pics. The owner will be back in town in a couple of days and I will negotiate with him on the purchase. I'd sure like to pick this up for around 2K

Check out this video. I could see lots of uses for this stuff if it is cheap enough. http://www.youtube.com/embed/IPM8OR6W6WE?feature Imagine if you sprayed this on your comanche and went mudding? Your friends would $#!&... :rotf:

Thanks Warrior. I'm planning to u-pol line the lower part of the truck, and install flat bushwackers. The JCR front and rear bumpers will arrive soon, so still have a lot of customizing to do. I like knowing the rusty parts are fixed for sure. The engine is basically brand new, so I expect a lot of future miles to be trouble free with this truck. I'm still debating 30's or 31's. Looking at a set of Falken tires, but don't want to pull the trigger until I get all the other work finished. I'd love to find a factory roll bar, but I own a tube bender and the software, so I might as well make one. 2" DOM would be nice, but I only have 1 3/4" dies, so that will have to do.

I prefer a carb for serious offroading. then when i'm out doing some serious crawling, I wish I had FI. Go figure! :doh:

I get where you are coming from. Suspension parts should be done once, and done right. I was just worried there that the first time i take maura out in public, everyone would be snickering behind my back :laughin:

Mevotech Rear Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit MK80036 They are around $15 each IIRC. I found them here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/380526549116?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Ther are perfect length for 4" lift.

I'm failing to see how sway bar links that fit the rear of an F350 and used on the front of a manche is a "ratty" or inferior part. Please explain the logic to me, as i have those links installed on Maura, and I feel for the price, they are an excellent choice. The quality seems as good or better than the OEM Jeep parts. I have the money to install any links i want, so if I need to swap them out due to a dangerous situation, I will gladly do that. I need convincing that they are "ratty".

Maura sees daylight. Still need to color sand, and buff. BTW, the sun is barely up, so you can't see the shine, but trust me with 4 heavy coats of clear on top of a single stage urethane paint, it is there.

I feel your pain man! Changing a clutch has to be the worst thing to do on a manche.

I have heard that about using a heat gun, but I chose the safer route (in my mind) of using the forever black product. I found it on Amazon Prime for $16, so it is on the way. No doubt, the SEM product is as good if not better, but more expensive. Thanks for the tips guys! :thumbsup:

Since Maura has a nice new white paint job, I'm going to have to clean up some of the exterior plastic trim pieces. For instance the cab vents. Mine are nice, but they do have some sun fading. I'd like to get them back to new looking, and don't have any idea if they need a paint made for plastic, or if they should be dyed somehow. What works the best, and is readily available. I went to AZ and they have a rustoleum plastic paint in gloss and satin. I purchased the gloss, and tested it on paper, and i'm thinking it is going to look too much like it was painted. I want a natural look, so that is why i'm using the word dye, but don't know if it is even doable. Advice please!

Don't have a part number. That picture is of one for an AMC 2.5L but don't know what year. I can't say if they had different cranks through out the years, as I'm not very well versed on the 4 cylinder engines. I was just basically showing you the picture so you could see the slots needed for the CPS.

Bandit of course Mr. Quest

This is the flexplate you are looking for.

Your sway bar ends look bent to me. Is the other side the same? When ever you add lift, you should add longer sway bar links to compensate. Not necessary if only adding up to 1", but over that, I would get adjustables.

The way to know what amount of lift a set of shackles is going to give, is to measure from eye hole to eye hole on your stock shackles. Measure eye to eye on the new ones, and subtract the difference. Take that number and divide by 2, and that is the amount of lift you will get. Example: Your stock shackles measure 4" E. to E. Your new ones measure 6". Difference = 2". divide by 2 and you get 1" of lift. I generally don't recommend more than 1" of shackle lift, as you get into handling issues. Long shackles allow lateral movement. (read road wander) The kind of movement a track bar normally eliminates. You can run a track bar with leaf springs, but it really hampers your travel. If you do run long shackles, it is best to get some with the center bar that is welded. It helps with the sideways movement. They are like the letter "H". I have boomerang shackles on my rock buggy, and like them a lot. Anyone try them on an MJ?

Here are some shots of the paint process Masked and ready..... Two Coats of Urethane Single Stage white. After third coat. The lighting is kind of bad for photography, but it was fine for the paint. This is before the clear coats. Once I unmask, I will pull Maura out into the sunshine and snap some better pics.

I've been storing a 4.2 complete engine just for a future stroker build. It is a 79 model engine, so it should have the heavy weighted crank. One of these days...

Been painting for several years. One of the things I like to do, is to do all the work myself when I restore or mod vehicles. If i don't know how to do something, I learn. Painting is not difficult, just a ton of manual labor sanding and such. Yes there is an art to the actual paint application, and I recommend at the very least to spen some time around the pros. Sometimes you can volunteer at a bodyshop and pick up on some tips. that is how I learned.

Worked for me! Thanks.

I still don't have pics, but I did find out it is a 71 year model. Looks all original and in great shape. There is a sunroof in the rear section of the hard top, that looks like it was put there for hunting. Other than that, I'm impressed with the overall condition.

Just finished the paint job. Took me 4.5 hours including taping it off. I had one fisheye in the paint on the driver side door right next to the door lock. must have missed some oil??? Had one run in the final clear coat. I sprayed four coats, so it will color sand out, no problem. No other issues i could see. I took some pics, but they are still in the camera. Will get them posted up real soon. I'm very happy the way it turned out.

Going back white urethane with clear.

I need one like I need a hole in my head... However, addicts don't have the luxury of saying no to a good deal! Even if it isn't such a good deal, we convince ourselves it is. So.... There is a Jeepster in town that has been sitting at mechanics shop for almost a year now. I finally decided to see what was up with it. The owner of the shop told me it was a fellow ranchers, and that it runs, drives and is pretty much available for sale. He gave me the owners phone number, which I called and made plans to get together to discuss me purchasing the truck. Has the Buick V6 odd fire engine and D44 rear. That is all I know at this point. Comes with hardtop, and it is original white paint. Zero rust! I expecting to get it for around $2,000 based on what the shop owner told me. We are friends, so he kind of clued me in on what price range to go for. I know parts are going to be hard to find, but I think the truck needs a better home. Pictures to come shortly.

I plan to hose down the shop floor, everything else, I will have plastic over. I bought a lot of plastic sheets, so should be fine. Going to start masking in a couple of hours... :banana: