ftpiercecracker1

Yup, I now know for certain it is the pointometer in the sending unit. I am working on a way to make or refresh the old one. Appreciate the info on the ohm reading. I think my multimeter is my new best friend, I never knew it could be so useful.

After completely tearing into the wiring harness, i found the mother of all wire bundles. Image Not Found There are about 30+ ground wires here and every. single. one. Goes to that single grounding point. :shake: I tested my fuel guage itself and it does work, so now its on to the wiring. Is there any definitive way to test the sending unit itself?

Ok, dash is out. Using my multimeter i tested all known grounds, lowest/most sensitive setting is 200ohms. Black lead of multimeter was on this wire for all tests. Every solid black wire i tested read with less than .9 ohms of resistance. Which tells me each of those wires have a solid connection to the above grounding location. But the problem still remains. I will be putting a video up here so you guys can see exactly was is going on. I have narrowed it down to something in the plug that goes into the back of the cluster, the plug right next to the speedo cable. The gauges work normaly with HeadLights off, but do this when i turn HL on. Fuel gauge has a mind of its own and is not affected by anything i do. I am starting to think its just the pointometer thingy. And the gauge lights don't come on with headlights. Do you know which fuse is responsible for them? A while ago i found a loose fuse to be the culperit for them going in and out, but not this time. All other interior electrical works great, clock, radio, cigarett lighter, vanity mirrors, B pillar lights, floor board lights, even my fancy new rear view mirror with map lights.

Thats nice. :drool: I am diggin the color scheme, are your rockers coated? (bedliner)

Its actually not that bad, this writeup helps a TON if its your first time. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/dash-removal-35444/

I am gonna just pull the dash tomorrow so that i can make sure i do this right. When i put the dash in just a few weeks ago i know i could have done a better job of it, who knows what i might have missed, plus i will then be able to trace wires instead of cutting and splicing. :ack: On a side note, i have long since removed the emissions timer deal, but i was wondering if i can cut out its associated wiring and be rid of it entirely. :dunno: thanks 87 for the infomation :thumbsup: ftpiercecracker

Update: I am very happy to report this mod works with 100% effectiveness. :D I finished installing a junkyard engine about a week ago and have driven the truck several times since then with outstanding results. Hope it works as well for everybody else . . . looks like Hesco has some competition. :brows:

What? :hmm:

I have one there too, but thats just one wire. Does that really ground the entire interior electrical harness??? :eek:

Thats the kicker, how would you know what goes through the ecu? (rhetorical) hey hey hey, don't be hatin on Renix now. :fs2: ;)

Appreciate it, i will check in that location. The picture will help a lot too. Are there any grounds, that you know of, in the interior that have to go through the ecu/fuse box? In other words, if i find a solid black wire that i cannot trace, can i just cut, splice, and reground it to be sure its grounded? Thanks ftpiercecracker

I second that motion. :D

I should probably just start another thread. ;)

Orielly's, but really any parts store should carry vacuum hose. Any hose thats the right dia will work. take the fitting thats in the manifold and the MAP sensor in so you know you are getting the right dia.

Thanks, but do you . . . well hell, if i can get one out i will just take it to Fastenal. :cheers: PS. Lowes does NOT carry 12 point sockets that small metric or standard :fs1:

junkyard, if you want the factory look or just use plain old off the shelf vacuum hose. ;)

Instead of starting a new thread i figured i would continue on with this one. Can someone please take a picture of where the ground is for the interior? I am pretty sure i heard hornbrod say its up under the dash, on the drivers, side near a dash support brace, but mine isnt there, apperantly i forgot to put it back after pulling dash. :doh: I am having a few issues with my gauges and i am pretty sure its the ground or lack there of. dash lights don't come on with headlights, headlight switch is fine and i know about the dimmer, clock dims as it should. Oil pressure and volt gauge both quit working with headlights on, work perfect with HL off fuel guage is reading erractically, it will read fine one moment then start going up and down randomly for no apparent reason. windshield wiper delay is not working, delay module is hooked up, worked perfectly before i pulled the dash, tried unplugging and replugging, no worky. Also, are all solid black wires grounds? If so, and i can't trace them, can i cut, splice and reground them to be sure they are grounded? I am speaking about interior wiring only. ftpiercecracker ;)

Anybody have the specs for the caliper bolts on a 90 4x4 swb? I have read thread on here that was over this, but my bolts are totally different. The heads on these bolts are a tiny 12point head, 5/16 socket which nobody seems to carry. I want to replace them with a plain jane hex. ftpiercecracker

Electro/mech engineering student, was a distribution driver for a Nissan, laid off, looking for work, again. ;) I HATE being broke. :mad:

:rotfl2: , happens to me everytime.

You just had me a little worried with that one word response. ;) If i can find the money/time i will definately look into getting the 96 setup. Do you know if 96 is the only year? Can it be off of a grand or cherokee only? 4.0 obviously. There are 3 bolts that hold the pump to intake. I put the top right bolt in place and pulled the bottom of the pump over far enough so that another bolt could be put in yet NOT go through the bracket. Instead of relying on one bolt to pivot and hold the pump in place, the second bolt acts as a physical stopper while the top bolt hold the pump on. To be honest it actually works great, belts tight and all pulleys line up. :D I'll take pictures tomorrow.

Same story here, 7 stores total, most of them specialty stores.

Did i say something wrong? :(

Grainger aint exactly like Walmart, i think i have only seen one Grainger store, ever. I will admit that if you really wanted to, you could probably find a plug online without to much effort and in the OPs case he might just have to do that or, like you said, take it to a machine shop and have them turn one out.

I will check in on this, but for now i happened to discover a very fast and dirty solution.