aemsee

No problem, I shoot back :thwak:

Do the bearings. If you change gears you need to do the bearings anyhow. With a bearing change you really don't need to change any of the shims. Just make sure you keep them on the same side of the carrier. When you do gears you need to compensate for variance btwn gear set and you will need to remeasure and reshim everything to do it right.

If you look at the TPS it should have two pigtails comming off of it with 3 wires each. One set is for the ECU and one set is for the trans controller. So the ECU could be seeing the correct voltage and the trans controller might not, but this would only come in to play with incorrect shifting and/or no 4th gear. You need to get someone to drive your truck and verify that you have all trans gears.

One is for fog lights, the springy one is for rear defogger. That one you won't be needing :D

Does your engine actually sound like it is doing 5,000 rpm's when it shows that on the tach? A 4.0 at 5,000 is screaming. If someone changed from a 2.5 to a 4.0 maybe the tach isn't reading correctly. What does it idle at? And check your gearing. If they swapped the engine, maybe you've got some 4.88's hanging out in the back :D

Those are the bolts for the crank sensor. They should be 7/16 head?

Cole, PM sent

How worn is your key? I've seen worn out keys work forward but not turn back. Could also be a switch and/or switch adjustment problem, or could be the cylinder itself at fault. Aren't I a big help :wall: Try wiggling the key while turning back to accessory. If you are really ambitious, reach under dash and find the rod on the lower column that connects the cyl and the switch and pull back on it while turning the key and see what happens.

Well, now that I reread your post. Are you trying to get to the ign switch, or the ign cylinder? The ign switch is actually low on the column under the dash and connected to the cyl by a rod.

As this is a GM column it can be a PITA. You will need a special lock plate tool to compress the lock plate that is located under the steering wheel. I do this for a living so I have all the tools, maybe someone here knows a way to do it w/out the special tools.

Yes, if you push the schrader valve while cranking fuel should come out. Do this with care and PLEASE wear eye protection. Better yet, disconnect the fuel line at the manifold and put it in a plastic bottle or something and have someone crank it. It should fill a 16 oz bottle in just a few seconds. Check to see if you may have pinched your fuel line closed somewhere underneath while jacking up your truck. That would explain fuel comingout of the filter but not making it to the engine. Good luck. :cheers:

Lets see, yes you definitly need to get the bolt out. Try removing the lower shild btwn the engine and tranny and see if you can fish it out. You NEED to do this. How do you know the pump is running? You will need to check fuel pressure at the rail with a guage, check to see if the injectors are pulsing if you do have pressure. If those are OK you will need to see what kind of volume you have. You also said you have alot of vacuum line off? You may have fuel being injected properly but with the vacuum leaks it could still be too lean to start a cold engine, which is why it runs with fuel being added. I would get all the connections made and double check that all the electrical connections are together. All the fuel testing stuff can be VERY dangerous, especially in someone elses garage! I would push it outside before doing any of the fuel pressure/ volume testing. What you really need is a knowledgeable friend to help you out. Last thing you want to do is burn up your truck after taking the time to put a new engine in it :wrench:

I haven't started yet, but my wife is REALLY good with contact paper. And it comes in so many different pattern. :D

It will crank over w/out the crank sensor hooked up, but it won't run.

Hope ya don't mind, I used your pic for my computer screen. Thanks.

Is it a long crank time? There was a service bulletin way back for running the crank sensor wires directly to the ECU and bypassing the rest of the harness and connectors. This usually did the trick.

When my daughter was 5 we were watching one of his shows when he was getting spit on, in the face, by a cobra. After a few minutes she turned to me and said "He isn't very smart, is he?" I used to enjoy his show until he was carrying his infant around in the crock pen and holding it just feet away from the crocks mouth. Reality-------------------------------------------------------------------Irwin.

Universal is fine (I doubt you could find OEM anyhow), but measure the old one so you don't have to cut and double flare the new line. Also make sure your wheel cyl bleeder opens up or you will need to change that as well.

The d-ring hitch insert I had on my ZJ was about 1/2 inch thick. You will be concentrating a huge amount of force on to a very small area. Last thing you want is to have a d-ring flying at someone at a high rate of speed!

I think it looks great, except your grill is upside down. ;)

Mine always shoot across the room, but I've got a good eye. Well, if ya wore safety glasses you would have two good eyes :D

I checked my 88 and it's window crank doesn't have the retaining clip. It just pulls straight off. Somes years had the clip and some didn't.

I used to think that laws like that were stupid as well, then I had kids. Try and explain obscene bumper stickers to your 4 year old. ( Not that I consider the peeing stickers obscene, but there are some pretty nasty/ racist ones out there. Heck, peeing on something is one I DIDNT have to explain to a 4 yo;))

Hey Steve. Unless you know folks at the dealership, and they have been around Jeeps for a while, I would be leery of taking it there. In 87 the stuff under the hood has basically no Chrysler connection. At the dealership I work at most guys are in their 20's ands don't have a clue about any older stuff. I also doubt that they have any of the old AMC/ Renix test stuff laying around. If I can get my old brain to remember I think that we used to see wacky high idles from TPS issues. The TPS on your Jeep is adjustable and would need to be set with a DVOM AND I would highly recommend cutting out the pigtail connector and soldering the wires together directly. This was more of an issue with the AW4 TPS connector, but I got in the habit of splicing all the TPS wires directly to eliminate the crappy connector they used. I saved all the old service bulletins from the '80s and will check through them when I get back to work on Tuesday.

what is the size and shape of the connector, and what year is your truck?