aemsee

It is actually supposed tobe a steel rod that runs from the mount to the right lower bell housing bolt hole. I probably have one if ya want it, just pay for shipping. Or just leave it off and don't worry about it :D

More than the light, I want the rocker panel overlay to use when I hook up aftermarket cargo lights. The cheapie rubber coated ones from tractor supply stores are great, and rugged.

Did the TSB actually talk about modifying the stock wiring harness? . Yes, it did (does?). It had us drilling a hole throught he bulk head , cutting and splicing the CRK wires at the ECM and even said how many twists per foot of wire to put in. Took care of alot of intermittant stalling issues.

Do you want me to try and find that CRK sensor bulletin?

Thanks for the show. Really appreciated that it was family friendly so my 7yo daughter was able to watch it with me. Nothing worse than watching a clip and having someone start throwing f bombs with the kids sittin next to me. :D

Hell, the 06 schematics I use at work aren't always right with the wiring colors. I have always been led to believe that the ZJ was the last vehicle design actually done, for the most part, by AMC.

Here are a couple of ideas that are free or cheap to try. There was a bulletin out for hard start / driveway die out that involved replacing the crank sensor, cutting off the connector and slicing wires in to the crank sensor and running them through the firewall and splicing them directly to the ECM under the dash. You could try this with out replacing the sensor to see if it makes a difference. Be sure to twist the replacement wires that you run to the ECM to eliminate induced voltage. I believe that is what the original issue was. If you want to try this I can probably find the old bulletin and send you a copy. Make sure your throttle body is clean, including removing the idle air control motor and cleaning the pintle and bore with carb cleaner and a NYLON brush I also recommend checking the TPS and eliminating the connector off of it as well, directly splicing the wires together if it is one with the pigtail off of it. Any wire splicing needs to be done by soldering together clean wires, no butt connectors or scotch locks. If the wires are a bit dark or burnished, just scrape then with a knife blade or razor blade until you see shiny copper. As for the timing, with the miles on your rig, I imagine the timing chain as a bit of stretch to it. If you kept your old distributor cap, locate #1 terminal, and carefully use a dremel tool or something like that and cut a window out of the plastic that will allow you to see the #1 electrode through the window you will make. Now turn the engine over by hand until you have the timing marks on the crank pulley lined up at TDC for #1 cyl, turning only clockwise as you look at the front of the engine. This is important as you don't want any slack in the drive side of the chain. Now put the modified cap on your distributor and look to see where the rotor lines up on the terminal. You want the tail, or trailing edge, of the rotor terminal to line up with the #1 terminal on the cap. If it isn't, adjust your dist so it lines up. If you have the ears on your dist that keeps it from moving, you will need to remove it and cut them off, being sure to mark everything so it goes back in the correct spot. Does your engine run a EGR valve? They switched back and forth so much I can't remember which years did or didn't. Make sure that is working properly. It will need to be removed to be fully checked for bleed by. I can give you more instructions on this if you want to check it. Another thing I have seen for erratic driveability issues with the 4.0, especially the older ones for some reason, is a heavy build up of carbon deposits on the back of the intake valves. Unfortunately this means pulling the head and cleaning or replacing the valves at this point. Good luck and keep us posted. :cheers:

Nope, just me. My brain was backwards this morning. Sorry :hmm: . Shoulda had my coffee first.

Just kidding. The french really fubuared the manuals, and if it is for the mid '80s then that would be it. Original AMC manuals are actually outstanding for the most part with detailed explanations and actual photo's, not just drawings. The one I have for my 73 Hornet is way better than anything DCX uses now. Somewhere I have a box full of old Jeep manuals. If I find 'em I'll put the duplicates up for sale.

I think you are going to have tire to frame clearance issues with the narrow back spacing of those wheels. Before you spend on new tires, you may want to find a cast off to mount up and put on your truck in the rear just to see how close it is.

Don't take this wrong, but don't blame the vehicle for having someone throw a lot of parts at it to fix one problem. You need to try and find a competent mechanic that is willing to take the time to drive your vehicle around until it dies on him or her, then diagnose the actual problem. How do you get the truck to restart after it dies? Does it just crank right up, or do you have to let it sit for a period of time? Is there any visible smoke when restarted? Does it run good right away, or spit and sputter for a bit. When it is dead, does it try and run when you crank it, or turn over with no sounds of life? Does it just conk out while driving, or when coming to a stop, hitting a bump, turning a corner, braking hard? All engines need basically air, fuel and spark to run. You have addressed the fuel delivery aspect with the pump and filter, air with the new exhaust. You need to figure out what is being lost. A bad crank sensor will lose you both fuel and spark, a bad coil module will lose you just spark. Carry around a can of carb cleaner in your truck. When it dies, spray a bunch in the TB and see if it fires up. That will tell you lack of fuel. Get yourself a spark tester from a parts store, and a long plug wire that will hook on to the coil terminal so that you can see the tester from the drivers side, and a jumper wire to ground the tester well. Hook it up when the truck does run and see how it works, then when it dies you can check for spark yourself. Keep this in your truck as well. Chances are that most guys at your dealership are young and don't have a clue about your truck, and if it is a newer dealership then they won't even have the diagnostic equipment to hook up to your truck. A dead vehicle is one of the easiest things to diagnose, one that is intermittant and doesn't act up is just a crap shoot and usually ends up costing way more that it should to fix, as you are finding out.

Hey now, thems fightin' words mister! :mad:

Guy shoulda been punched in the head.

If it is a FSM then it would have to be from Chrysler as they own the rights to all that material. I doubt they would sell the copyright to let someone else make up discs. I think I smell bootleg :D .

I strongly advise against using compression fittings on brake lines. All brake lines should be double flared for strength. I wouldn't trust a compression fitting to hold up to the 350 or 400 psi that you can generate in your brake system.

Do you have any of the bolts at all? I have a bunch of various TC bolts in my tool box and could probably match you up a set.

Any chance the mechanic put the seal (upper half) in backwards? I have seen it done, and it will leak like a biotch.

My full guage cluster is from a stick, and the auto in my new truck has a shift position indicator built in to the big fuel guage. I could do with out the indicator, but my missus will be driving it as well and she will definitly need the indicator.

Is this something you are looking to get rid of, or are you just thumbing your nose at me? :D

It would be a great winter project...if I had a garage. As for left over parts, you want to add another MJ to your collection? I don't know how long the village busybodies will let me get away with having an unregistered storage facility in my yard. I figure I'm good until spring if I'm lucky. Hell, maybe I'll cut the back off and make a trailer out of it.

I just did a 2.5 engine swap from my 88 to my 87 over the weekend. Nothing real difficult, and mine were both NEast trucks. There is a ton of room to get the bellhousing bolts. Just make sure you have some good metric sockets. I did the swap in my driveway, even though I could have taken them to work and used the shop. Did not have to jack up either one to get to stuff underneath. Get some cold beer and have at it :cheers:

If the Rancho shocks are 21.5 installed and the OME are 21.5 fully extended, then it sounds like the OME are too short. Or am I understaning you incorrectly?

Got the engine swap done this weekend. Everything went pretty well except the inspection cover is touching something and making noise. No biggie. Biggest disapointment was realizing that I couldn't swap the full guage cluster because of the PRNDL in the column auto cluster.. DUH! Oh well, one more thing to sell.

Take care and stay safe. Maybe you can send back a diesel engine out of a humvee one piece at a time to put in your 'manche. Do you know what your assignment will be once you are there?

You might want to pull the radio and unplug it just to be sure.