aemsee

Is it a 4.0 with a closed cooling system or a 2.5 with open? If it is open the oil will tend to collect in the reservoir over time as it is lighter than the coolant and finds it's way to the top. Just keep an eye on the reservoir for a layer of oil before starting the engine when it is cold. If you are getting coolant in the oil it will turn in to a milkshake and that is very bad.

I just checked my 88 and the MAP wire is in the firewall harness right by the MAP sensor bracket.

I could go for the Jeep green as well. I like black but already have a load of black tee's. Can ya go back and change the navy option to green on the poll?

Are you pulling the whole dash panel or just the cluster bezel?

1ST pic: black should be vacuum supply to heater controls.Should tee in to the longblack hose that runs to the front pass side. Other line with the elbow goes to a heater line water valve to close off hot coolant from getting to the heater core during AC operation. These were prone to leaking and may have been remove by PO.Valve not essential, but plug the line as it will bleed vacuum. 2ND pic: As Mike stated, should go to a vacuum reservoir behind the fromt bumper. 3RD pic:same hose 4TH pic:That nipple is just a air bleed for the cruise servo.I belive that there used to be a litttle foam breather cap on that. Don't plug it if yopu want your cruise to work. 5TH: Yes that is the MAP. The connector is most likely a green three pin and it has to be there someplace. It should pigtail off the harness that goes to the TB etc.

Thanks guys. I'll check them out and see which one will work best for my wife.

Drop the column. Not much to it and it will make pulling the dash much easier.

I admit, I didn't do a search first. I'm looking for a picture hosting site that is VERY user friendly. My wife is looking for a place to share some pics and videos WITH HER FAMILY (get your minds out of the gutter guys :D ). I have been using a site that is kind of a pain, but used for a gun forum. Appreciate any tips on user friendly places. Thanks

AMC 20 also was in all the V8 AMC cars. My 73 Hornet has one. I don't know width measurements off hand, but might be worth looking in to. BUT, you would need to get one piece axles for it from somewhere. I see them for sale for AMX and Javelins frequently.

My mistake was using an aftermarket radiator in it. Didn't cool for $#!&. After I scavanged a trans cooler from a minivan and rigged it in, problems gone. Well, for the tranny anyhow. Still couldn't use the AC when it was over 90 without my engine running hot. I loved my little red bus, but had to lose one vehicle and that one was starting to see it's NY age.

It is definitly an AW4. I asked the guy before I bought it. The AW4 is my all time favorite auto tranny. I overheated the one in my ZJ (early 93's had the AW4) til it puked fluid out the vent 3 times and didn't hurt it.

I see ya haven't modifired those dubjay arms yet. Had a set on my 93 ZJ and did a couple of sets for friends. Too bad they weren't just a couple inches longer.

Sounds like you need a new pedal/ ratchet assy. Watch the assy while you push down on the e-brake pedal. There should be a lever that catches on the teeth . This is what holds it and get released when you pull the handle. You might get lucky and it might just be sticky.

What vehicle is that tranny/ rear end out of? If I recall, the 999 was the 4wd version of the 904 used in the AMC Eagle with a hydraulic lock up convertor. What gears are in the 20? That is actually a very strong rear end if you get one piece axles for it. The R&P are larger than a dana 44.

Now ya got me excited to see what the axles are. At some point in the future i will probably swap in a 4.0. I have a new short block, reman head and all the goodies to put one together, or maybe I'll find me some 258 parts and make up a stroker for it, but that is nothing that will happen soon. Unfortunately it looks like it is going to be a couple of weeks before I can get down to pick it up. And I aint a good waiter.

I actually feel pretty good about this deal so far. But I know what you mean. Hopefully it won't be a:nut shot: . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... IBSA:MT:31

Well, I won a 87 MJ off ebay. 2.5, auto 4x4 short bed. An unusual combo I thought. I was looking for the auto with column shift cause I need the bench seat, and the wife won't drive stick, and that is what my current MJ is. Body doesn't look too bad. Normal rust coming through on bed sides and drivers rocker, but owner says floors have no rot. Interior is very clean, with carpet. Bonus. Now I just need to get down to Pa to pick it up.

It is hard to say, but it won't take long to grenade the whole thing if there are pieces floating around in there.

You have an internal trans problem that will require rebuild or replacement. In the trans 4th gear is the one closest the the bellhousing, attatched to the input shaft. All your power goes in throught the input/ fourth gear and down to the counter shaft. Then depending which gear you are in it travels back to the main shaft through that gear set and out the out put shaft. During all this the input shaft and the rest of the main shaft are spinning at different speeds, with a bearing btwn the input/4th gear and the rest of the main shaft allowing this, BUT, when you shift in to 4th gear, you are locking input/4th gear shaft to the rest of the main shaft, bypassing the counter shaft, giving you the 1 to 1 ratio of 4th gear (hence "direct drive"). Now, the counter shaft is still meshing with the main shaft and spinning, but no "power" is going through it. I am guessing that you either have a bad bearing btwn the input and main shafts, or a bad counter shaft bearing. .my 02

The guy with the XJ needs to rethink his choice on tires. And what is with the front tires on the Geo being reversed? Is that a normal mud thing? I prefer to do trails and snow. Mud takes too much time to clean :D

Everything you need should be right in your XJ. With the exception of the rear shaft. That you will need to have shortened I think.

Is the MAP sensor hooked up to manifold vacuum? If not it will run full rich thinking you are at WOT under full load. That would foul out everything. With your finger over the plug hole on the compression stroke it will kinda pop your finger off the hole. It won't do it on the exhaust stroke with the exhaust valve open.

See if you can rent a ball joint press set up from somewhere. Piece of cake if you have it, lots of pounding and swearing if you don't. Be VERY careful heating up the old ones. There is a 1/2 inch deep hole in the concrete floor of the shop where I work from a ball stud coming out of a heated ball joint at high velocity. Apparently the nylon inside the joint makes a really good seal when it melts and the super heated grease inside likes to expand. Too bad you weren't closer. I can do a set in about a 1/2 hour with the press I have. Good luck. :beerhead:

Don't see where fuel filter or fuel contamination would only affect the truck after 30 mins. I would take a look at the choke plate when it starts acting up and see if it is closing back up again. Have you ever done any work on the piece of crap carb? Are all the factory vacuum lines and air cleaner still attacthed? I seem to remember some funky performance issues with bad thermovacuum delay valves and solenoids on these things, or just having ported and manifold vacuum sources switched. Just find a TPI set up out of a camaro or firebird and put that in it.

Just sounds like it is frozen in the locked position. Pulling door panel and trying to get it to unlock would be your best bet. Not an easy thing to do for sure. You may end up damaging the panel.