Jeep Driver

Go with Wilwood and use a heim joint. Grind off your pin and drill it out for a grade 8 bolt to the heim. Just another option. That would also give you a little adjustment that you currently don't have.

There isn't one that I'm aware of. In fact you'll have to drill out a newer master to get it over the pin, mine is a near press fit. I you are metal to metal with slop.......could be your pin is worn. You'll have to measure and hunt something down or make one......or get a new master and drill it out.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/52018_0001.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5uWGBhCTARIsAL70sLIZpCPzr2A00ojHhZIj8owE1EsLIQBdxQuXIGTwBYmLq3j7jh-xMicaApA0EALw_wcB You need 4.

Coil or CPS

My guess from a thousand miles away.......... CPS or coil.

Scroll down through this page. https://comancheclub.com/topic/53244-evolution-88/page/4/#comments

With the engine off and the truck parked..... If you have excessive free play at the wheel, 1/2" in either direction with no feel of resistance, you have a problem at the box or intermediate shaft. If not, box should remain untouched. If no excessive free play...... You problem is with the steering sector- rod ends, or with the TB or TB mount, or the suspension bushings. If you still have wondering with the TB replaced......... chances are your bushings are shot. Just for fun, you can skip ahead......this is likely what your front axle is doing, to some degree.

One wire at a time. Use heat shrink. There are additional factory ground splines outside of the C101, solder those also.

Ordered my heads today, AFR 195 Street Heads set up for roller cam. Ordered my intake today, AFR dual plane. Used long block core. $250.00 Rotating assembly, ARP balancer bolt, brass plugs, balancer. Jegs $895.96 Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, bolts. Silver Sport Transmissions $640.72 Machine work, clean, bore, deck, cam bearings. Myers Machine $630.00 Machinist labor, check balance of rotating assembly, good for 8500rpm $200.00 ARP main cap bolts $109.00 Head location pins $ 9.53 AFR dual plane intake, AFR directly. $359.31 195 Street Heads, AFR, Weingartner Racing, 50% deposite, $962.00 To date: $3,956.52

Giving the bumper a once over, again. Ball joints arrived today, Sunday. Read the tag.......go figure. As I mentioned in a previous post, parts are becoming scarce. I found these the old fashioned way, calling around the country.....this maybe the last set of bolts available. Used long block core. $250.00 Rotating assembly, ARP balancer bolt, brass plugs, balancer. Jegs $895.96 Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, bolts. Silver Sport Transmissions $640.72 Machine work, clean, bore, deck, cam bearings. Myers Machine $630.00 Machinist labor, check balance of rotating assembly, good for 8500rpm $200.00 ARP main cap bolts $109.00 Head location pins $ 9.53 To date: $2,635.21 I'm waiting on an invoice for the deposit on my heads......seller states better than 2 months lead time.

The bottom image is the one that I had on the '94 axle. The top image is the one that I have now with the '89 knuckle and Wilwood. What I think the difference is- The later design, the bottom image, redesigned to accommodate the ABS tone ring. The early design- I'm using the ZJ CV axles. I was concerned that the hub of the CV would not fit into the outer seal, it fits perfectly. As I stated, my 89 knuckle will not fit up all the way on the upper ball joint, I ordered Alloy BJs which have not yet arrived. Alloy states that their joints will not work with CV axles.....the reason for this is the tone ring. I take my tone rings off, should not be an issue for me. People say a lot of S--- but never tell you what nor why. I'm taking my axles apart again for the BJs, I still have the old unit bearings, I'll take a pic of them side by side for you. Also, for those of us who have HD steering- The rotors are larger, my passenger rotor comes in contact with my tie rod end seal. I will double space....choose a material twice the thickness of the old shields and space my unit bearings out...this should give me a few thousandths clearance to the TRE seal. Just one more thing to watch for.

See Harland Sharp, contact directly.

BTW, The fuel pump is grounded at the driver's tail light. If the ground there has failed....they all do.......the ground circuit cannot be completed and thus why the relay is buzzing.

This is precisely how the 2.5 operates. Have someone turn the key to crank and see if a ground is generated. I'm just curious.

Connect the alt and you have amp draw. Disconnect the alt and you have no amp draw. Correct? Is any thing else connected to the alt besides the exciter wire?

Based on what you said you discovered........your alt is the source of the short. IOWs you have a bad alt.

Disconnect the alt and the drop goes away? Sounds like you discovered your problem.

Let me also add- Check you ignition switch connector and also your headlight switch connector for any signs of burning/shorting.

You're good then. Install the feed wire as it was. Remove one fusible link at a time and test to see if you have a drop on any one of them....once you find it, you can trace that or those two circuits down. Also, the glove box light is almost always the culprit......or one of them anyway. Also, you could have a relay that is stuck or bad, pull each relay and test for a drop there as well.

The wire you are holding is your + feed wire. All circuits are fed off that wire. From the starter relay you see 3-4 wires feeding back into the harness. Those wires must be fused or protected, those short sections before the splices to the red wires are supposed to be fused links, those wires do NOT look like fused links. If they are not fused links.......you have a truck fire in the making.

This is the one that I have and it should bend your nicopp just fine.......with a little effort. https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/ridgid-44852?feeds=shopping&cm_mmc=Google-_-PRODUCTFEED-_-Ridgid-_-44852&gclid=CjwKCAjwiLGGBhAqEiwAgq3q_rexQUmd7TKH3U0NLAz9dKJfqAqQ2vh8lHo8PpSCk3hrFfeK-DlUVxoCzIIQAvD_BwE

Make: JEEP Model: CHEROKEE Submodel: BASE Beginning Year: 1989 Ending Year: 1989 Engine Type: L4 Drivetrain: RWD Engine Family: AMC 4-cylinder Engine Size: 2.5L/150 Hub Assembly Position: Front Left Anti-lock Brake System: No

Do your knuckles look like this?

One shim on one side and two on the other.

Yes, it's the one I used.