Jeep Driver

I would start with the 02 sensor.

Don't know where you are but...... http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/2790536701.html

How come us stock height guys never have these problems?

Sounds like you need to make some friends........lol For $500 I'd just buy a donor and swap the whole damn D30 then save your original and rebuild the whole axle at your convenience. Rape the donor and scrap it and get your money back. Yeah yeah I know........But I take the long way around

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... BLAMS_____

That guy is OUT OF HIS FREAK'N GOURD!!!!!!!!!! Compare his prices- https://jeeppartsguy.com/products/?view ... t_id=89646 His price with no bearings.......no kit. Other.....Dana with kit- http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-a ... mlprox=out

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/92-y ... in-462659/

The cheaper aftermarket internal slaves fail, mine did. I went external. OEM internal should run just shy of $150.

I was going to suggest that last night.......at the risk of sounding foolish. Mine did the same when my trans mount collapsed but I knew exactly what it was. I don't know that I would have described it as ratcheting but...... I would think that he would sense some other symptoms under load or not in other driving conditions if bad ring gear or other. First gear in the tranny may be something but I would think he'd feel it at the shifter........if it was in the drive line......gear, tranny, rear, ?, there would be more to it. What about when down shifting? As Pete suggested look at your trans mount, look at your exhaust, if the exhaust is even remotely close to the cross member.....1/4 to 3/8.......the ratcheting sound may be the exhaust tapping the cross member under load as the engine/trans is torqued.

I know it is. You may or may not find a desirable temp in that size.......you may have to find an adapter. Imagination. You may have to relocate it to suit your needs. Enginuity.

I look through about 300 to 400 CL ads per day.....maybe more. I would say that 1 out of every 9 needs a head gasket, has a cracked head, overheats, has a seized engine, or has had the head gasket recently replaced due to overheating. And I wonder how many trans have gone out due to heat? I will stay on the cool side of hot. 210 works for me.

Yeah I was only suggesting you can find other switches and create your own system that works for you, and cheaply too. It's not at all complicated. BTW.......just my experience with 4.0s...... When they get hot they get hot fast, 210 to 250/260....real fast. Nothing worse than a 6 mile incline at 7-8% grade and hitting red 3/4 of the way up.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Throttle-Bo ... 45fd4afb54 You know if the first one made it 20 year so will the replacement. Wiser to replace the entire TBI while you still can IMO.

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthrea ... post877048 Standing offer here to anyone until the 5n7 is gone.

http://ocala.craigslist.org/cto/2797701551.html This was my deal yesterday until another buyer got there at 7am this morning and beat me too it. So I'm off the VA now for a buy in the morning.........I'll be there at 7am :)

BTW if ever you need a new FI this is the cheapest I have found- http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.com/c ... 101082.htm I realize it's unrelated to the thread......just FYI. Other places list 'new' for around $150

Yeah I assumed that's what that was......idle-up for warm-up and AC? Well mine is dead completely. New one as soon as I get the extra chink- http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Throttle-Bo ... 45fd4afb54

Sorry.........you were asking particularly which one for the 215. BWD TFS8, 3/8NPT and a closed temp of 204 degrees, fits the mid 80s Corvette and Camaro V8s. Actually closes around 210 and about as close and you will get. Others are available but in metric thread sizes. Most have been discontinued I believe because most of the modern engines are running higher temps.

https://www.advancedsportvehicles.com/s ... uct_id=248

They are available. One rated as the one I posted above at 195 will actually close and turn the fan on around 200-205, none are that accurate. As I stated above, I will get one rated at 185 that will actually cycle around 195 to run my primary and I will get one rated at 195/200 to cycle around 205-210 to run my secondary. Realize that your fan has to play catch-up, by the time you are cycling at 205 your are approaching 210 about the time the cooled coolant is ready to pass through the thermostat. SPAL makes a fully adjustable unit, controls two fans but costs around $150 IIRC but is a true digital controller......very nice but pricey.

Great finish!

https://www.advancedsportvehicles.com/s ... uct_id=248 When I get a 4.0 keeper XJ I will install duel electric fans. The primary will run off the switch listed above and will be installed in the thermostat housing. The secondary will run off the switch installed in the radiator and will be rated to cycle around 210. Image Not Found Image Not Found I have not run a clutch fan since '04, don't like them, have no tolerance for them, will not have them. Don't want one in my way. Further I want to run cool, I understand that I need to maintain a correct running temp to sensors and ECU to run fuel and timing correctly.....200-210 is the range I want to run in, no hotter and no cooler. I'll build the system that works for me, not what a manual says, not what a particular OEM switch dictates......but what I want.

BTW in this process I'm also looking for the altimate XJ keeper for the wife. Must be an AMC (84-88) and if not perfect it needs to be a perfect platform to start a long term project.

I have been and making money too, but they are getting harder to find. http://gainesville.craigslist.org/cto/2797832662.html This is a money maker. Last one I brought up from Tampa I paid $800. All new gaskets and rear main seal.....took 5 quarts to get it home :P Along with a good detail job. Sold for $2200. I'm working on a real good swap candidate now and Ill post when I make the deal.