Jeep Driver

Coming back from the canister are the lines the serve the heater control. Image Not Found

This small line feeds the MAP. Image Not Found

Image Not Found This line feeds the canister at the bumper. You will trace this line here, it also feeds the EGR solenoid. Image Not Found

Image Not Found This line here, I deleted entirely and capped it at the manifold.

Now, I would start all over again.

I did not get the fly wheel turned, yes on the rest.

My external kit from NAPA was $96, LUK.

You've inspired me. I'll go through mine this weekend and clean it up. Will post pics of essentials for you.

they are conected to the canaster in the bumper. where do these ends connect to? I'll bet your heater valve and blend door does not work. The canister is just a reservoir to hold vacuum when a surplus is needed. Really, you are going to have to go off a schematic or find another 2.5 that you can use to trace down where everything goes. Sorry to hear you had this problem, too bad some dumbass can't put 2 and 2 together and reconnect the lines they way they were originally.

Wherever it enters (should just be a plate or bracket) look on the other side and there should be a clip to release the hose.

These two should go to your canister at the front bumper. I suggest you start from scratch. Get some hard line and some vacuum hose and begin to reroute everything. May take you 3-4 hours over the weekend........but you really need to clean it up and organize it. I'd search for a vacuum schematic.

This one on mine has always been capped.......have no idea what it was for but you can cap it. As for the hoses on the VC......does not really matter which hole they are coming from as long as they go to the air box and the other to vacuum. As for the other.....yeah, pics are too small.

You'll need the 94+ bell housing. I have one on an AX5 that I'm selling for $300 complete, I will sell and ship the bell housing alone for $150 plus shipping if you are interested. They are not necessarily easy to come by. Also comes with fork and TO bearing and front seal plate/bearing mount/sleeve. You'll need this plate/bearing sleeve also to make your swap- Image Not Found This is the housing that I will send you. Image Not Found

If anyone needs a pair of these.......let me know, I have a nice clean pair.

Junk Yard.........>JY

No, XJ or MJ. 85-86s are different, I posted a pic in the other AC thread here. There is not a 85-86 within 400 miles of me that is being parted out (only three complete for sale and none are running), I look nearly daily as I'd like to buy an 85 XJ. 88 MJs with 2.5 are still plentiful by comparison, you may be looking for a year or more for a 86 donor.

On the passenger side there is a rod that bolts to the trans at the lowest point and runs to a bracket near the TC cover. I see no need for it and want to discard it. Any problems you guys can see by doing so? If you need a pic, I'll post one. Thanks

Good. Now, I have a compressor on the bench that I will swap out tomorrow. Facing the engine, did you turn CW or CCW to open the valve?

Find a 88 in the JY for bracketry. Go to Rockauto and look up 88 Comanche AC and you will find all parts less the brackets. You will also relocate your alt below the AC compressor. I suggest the 88 because you are more likely to find the brackets.....also beware of hood clearance. My guess is if you do the work........have a shop vacuum it down and install freon.......$800 to $900.

Have someone rock the steering wheel while you look underneath and watch what is happening.

what is bump steer as i think i might have it?? http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-68.htm "If you have ever driven a lifted Jeep one thing you notice is the steering. If special care is not taken in the design the vehicle will dodge and dart whenever a bump or hole in the road is hit. This is because the drag link is either being pushed or pulled by the vertical suspension movement due to not being parallel with the trac-bar. This is commonly referred to as Bump Steer......" what my stock height is doing is in low speed turning the steering wheel feels like it is moving (rocking) from left to right and back repetitively. Track bar.

Somewhere you should have a low pressure switch. If you have no freon the compressor will not kick on. If you have no freon and you bypass the switch for very long you will burn up the pump.

Food City? You in E TN area?

He could use an in tank pump like any other 4.0 or 2.5 and use a regulator. The carb regulators are cheap......like $30 for the 4.5 to 6lbs regulators. Edit: Sorry, the return style is more- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-803bp