Jeep Driver

Why can you not use a T back at the firewall? and only one line to the intake? All you are doing is allowing the over-pressure fuel to return to the tank.

I think he's referring the the size of the pulley as it relates to the speed that it drives the pulley/pump........larger the pulley the slower the pump will run.

Yes, your chain and tensioner are worn. Cam to crank timing may be off by 1 degree or so but that will not be enough to cause the symptoms you state. Lifter tap and tick at idle is due to one of four things, either the lifters are worn, or the push rods bent, or the valves are out of adjustment, or the oil pressure is not sufficient to keep the lifters pumped up. I'm going with a lack of oil pressure. Lack of oil pressure will be caused by either the oil pump is worn or the main and rod and cam bearing are worn to the point they bleed out faster than the pump can supply oil to them. If it were me......based on the info provided that oil pan was clean......no debris........ Look for and replace with a Mellings high volume oil pump, replace timing chain and tensioner, and put it back together. Should cost you about $200 total and you may get another 10K to 20K miles out of it. Or..... Plan on a rebuild, if you have the time and money, should cost you around $1200 to $1500 with machining and parts. Once you get it back together.......then you can sort out the hesitation and other problems you have.

O2 sensor.

Copy from photobucket. Use 'Control + V' and the link will post.

Yes, I would fill in the hole with another headliner. I would also glass the backside, not the interior side. Make sure it is not twisted or out of shape when you glass it.

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http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1988/jeep/comanche/climate_control/a-fs-c_evaporator.html

Go to rockauto.com and find your truck. Look at 'compressor and component' listing and choose one of the two. Best deal you'll find anywhere, and it's the deal that I bought.

Shim the bottom with 3/8 plate........instead of drilling new holes which will weaken the frame.

Yeah, I can appreciate that. I took at little material off as I could get away with. I looked and the price for a new one seems to be consistent at $75 My $100 axle has now cost me about $500.....so for now......this will have to get me by.

Bold 1.........VC is off......correct? Bold 2........with VC off you started to take out other bolts........so it's not the VC bolts......>>correct? Bold 2.....there are no bolt 'next' to the throttle body, so, you must mean the intake.....correct? The bolts next to the intake are the head bolts......are they big bolt or small bolts? If they are big bolts and they are vertical to the engine block.....you are removing head bolts.

Don't know how to help you........... The VC bolts will not allow coolant to flow out of them.......if so.......you got serious problems. If you cannot post pics..........?????????............don't' know what to say............

http://cowl-hoods.com/Shop_On-Line.htm

Motor and trans mounts. Then on to Ujoints.

Well.....? Why did it fail? I do not off-road my truck and it has a 2.5.......cannot see a reason for a fail.

How about some pics? and show us what bolts.

Your pads rest on the slides, there are indentions in the slides that do not allow the pads to relax. You will need to fill the indentions with weld and then resurface.

I would try to grind a flat surface. The u-bolts are much stronger than the straps. Thank you, got it done today. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

The yoke came with ubolts but the nuts do not fit down flush on the back of the yoke, there is no room for a flush fit. I assume someone drilled out the yoke and went from straps to ubolts???? The axle is a 29 spline out of a 97. Is there a solution or do I need a new yoke? I'll post pics if necessary. Thanks.

Classy.

That's what I did, they are both the same.

I'm putting together a 8.25 and I noticed that the passenger axle was worn, too worn to reinstall. I'm off to the PnP and I pull two other axles apart, both had bad passenger side axles, worn at the bearing. 3 for 3....you guys have any idea why that might be? And for kicks..... The passenger side axle kinda just slid out when I touched it, looked OK but I just left it lie there. Image Not Found

That is what mine does, turn the a/c on and the idle drops dramatically. You can hear the engine struggling. I don't think there is such a relay, for the a/c at least. Some MJs/XJs had an 'extended idle' switch, can't remember why at the moment, but it wasnt for the a/c i know that much. I was under the impression that when you turned the a/c on the computer would sense the extra load on the engine and compensate accordingly, but i really don't know TBH. I believe it was the police units that had the switch so the alt could pick up the extra demand on the battery........lights....radio......computer........etc.......

Sorry -- not possible. First, unless you get VERY lucky and find a Comanche in a junkyard with a heavy-duty axle, more than likely you'll be getting an axle from a Cherokee. The Comanche is spring under axle (SUA) and the Cherokee is spring over axle (SOA). Also, the distance apart for the spring perches is slightly different for the Cherokee. So there's basically no way to avoid welding spring perches (unless you luck into a Comanche Dana 44). Second, both the Dana 44 and the Chrysler 8-1/4 are about 1-inch longer than the Dana 35, so to use either (at stock height) you will probably have to get the driveshaft shortened. Working on mine, currently. Image Not Found