DirtyComanche

That's great! And the truck is looking really good. What's next for it?

Welcome :waving: Post up more pictures when you pick 'er up. Looks real nice from this side, so I'm curious how bad the hit is.

On pulling that pump, hose down the lock ring with WD-40 or whatever your favorite rusty lube is first, and really hose it down. If it won't budge with a big flathead screwdriver and hammer, you can peel the tabs it locks into back with a cold chisel/screwdriver and hammer, since I'm assuming the tank is pretty much junk anyways. Once you peel them back a bit the ring will move easily with the same screwdriver and hammer. Get a new lock ring for when you swap it over to your tank, and put the lock ring in with grease on it so it will slide in easily and not get seized for next time. Should be a 5 or 10 minute job under the truck...

There is supposed to be a bushing for the clutch master cylinder pushrod. There's also supposed to be one in the pivot up top. If either of them are missing it will make the assembly loose and you may not get enough throw to disengage the clutch. The clutch master cylinder pushrod is not normally adjustable.

Found it. Dorman 603-001. Looks like it works perfect. I'm going to order one (or a couple) since I hate the bottle I have and my early 2.5L XJ bottle has been backordered for months.

It's most likely from the stud end of the sway bar link punching through it. The truck was not bumpstopped correctly and had extended swaybar links, or was jumped. You're making a ton of progress on this. Lots of a new parts. Couple questions. What is the coolant overflow bottle from? And what are you painting on for rust proofing in the cab?

What airbags are you going with and how are you mounting them? I'm kinda tossing around the idea that they might be something I want some day, but I'm not sure.

That looks a little vulnerable down there.

Well, that explains what those holes are for. I never knew.

There was a factory no bumper location?

You linked the 97-01 versions. Can you use them? What's the difference?The late model ones 'push in' as the apparatus is not removeable. Early models you could unscrew the whole assy. But the stop can still be removed.I use prothane bumps. So can you install the later style bumps into the earlier unscrewable type stops? Some of this stuff is a little hard to source in Canada for a decent price, and I can get the later style ones a lot cheaper. Do you like the Prothane progressive bumps? I'd debated trying to find a Timbren product that would work, or some other progressive products and adapting it.

How many people that don't do their own work and want a 29 year old somewhat obscure pickup truck? None of the people I know that would be interested would want to spend a lot of money. I don't think a full repaint will net any more money than buffing that. But that's me. If I owned that truck I would buff it and touch it up, then decide if I was happy with it or not. And I'd probably be happy, because it would be good enough, and short of really going at it and doing a proper full repaint I doubt it would be much better.

I can scratch and blast an exterior for well under $1k using Omni single stage. It shows though. It's not how I would paint anything I really cared about. But for a flip, yeah, unfortunately. I still stand by my opinion that popping the dent out, ditching the shell, and buffing it (maybe spray a tiny touchup where the paint is missing in the dent using a lacquer or single stage) would produce the most money relative to time and invested money. I'd be wary of buying a repainted truck if it appeared to be a scratch and blast job. It's a red flag to me that the truck isn't really going to be 'worth' anywhere near asking.

You linked the 97-01 versions. Can you use them? What's the difference?

I think popping that dent with a basketball and a bit of hammer work then buffing the paint would net a couple hundred bucks more. If there's anything really wrong with it or worn out, no, you won't be able to fix it and recoup the costs, unless you value your time at nothing and happen to have a shed full of good parts that were given to you. I've got a huge amount of money into mine to make it look okay... Certainly nobody would pay what I've put into it, and that's assuming my time is worth nothing.

I used hockey pucks on my XJ, so I know it can work. I was just trying to be 'more right.' I could even just weld a taller pad onto the perch on the axle.

Very true.

I don't have a picture of one installed - I looked. If you take a picture of how you've installed it, I'm sure we can figure out if it is right or not. However, as long as you put the straps in the right square holes in the frame (there's three square holes behind the cab, it's the first two that you use), and put the straps in the right place on the tank (they go in the two wide relieved areas on the bottom), and put the J bolts in the brackets on the box... It really can't be in the wrong place.

If I'd ever leave the north other than for work, it could easily happen. I'm only 7ish hours away. Thanks for the kind words guys!

Depending where you are being 4wd vs 2wd will greatly affect resale. Where I live a 2wd truck is worth half of a 4wd one. I'm guessing you're in SoCal though... Bang the dents out, pull the cap off it, buff and polish the hell out of it, and it will be a sharp looking around town truck for somebody.

What bushings do you want? I don't think anyone offers a complete kit, because there is a bunch of differences depending on sway bar size and control arm style. Energy sells most of them: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products/jeep_comanche_1988 Prothane offers some too: http://prothane.com/vehicle-applications/page/20/ And there is some other ones out there if you look around. Personally I'd never go through the trouble of replacing lower control arm bushings in the OEM control arms. They're quite terrible to do. IMHO you're better off buying replacement arms, either OEM style, aftermarket (such as Rubicon Express) or OEM style WJ (which need some modifications to work properly but are bent for tire clearance and have a nifty NVH isolator bushing at one end). The 2wd front springs do sit lower. Something around an inch, but with springs that are as old as a MJ it's pretty irrelevant, they're likely sagged out badly. They also tend to break near the last wrap on the bottom. If you're trying to bring it up to 4wd height you might be better off finding some NOS XJ or replacement OEM style coils, but if your coils are still in good shape you could just get a 3/4" poly spacer and it would be close.

I have ideas in my head but I should put them to paper before the flee... Can the bumper be moved up any before it interferes with the tailgate opening? I'm out of town for work, so I can't look at my MJ... I'm thinking it can a bit, maybe 3/4"? I know I managed to bend the S10 bumper up far enough that it wouldn't open all the way.

Good to see this thing is still working as good as it looks! Honestly one of my favorite MJs out there. :thumbsup:

1-tons have extra complications. You'd want to be running at least 37" tires for clearance. I partially wish I had ordered 40s rather than 37s with my 1-ton XJ build, just for clearance. Plus they're heavy axles, so you will need to do some reinforcements on the chassis/suspension, spend more money on shocks, steering, etc. Weight in general is your enemy. Part of the reason the XJ/MJ generally wheeled circles around everything else in their day was because they were lighter to start with, especially given that they were longer than many of the comparable Jeeps; it makes a huge difference performance wise being 4000lbs with 35" tires vs 5000lbs with 35" tires. But yes, building a D44 vs a 60... 60 almost every day, just as long as you've got the tires to justify it. I already told him I think JK axles might be a good option. Would they be? I dunno. He hasn't said what size tires he wants, or if/how he plans to wheel it. I don't want to go tooooo big on the tires, still needs to be a daily. I was thinking 33's I'm just looking to make a daily that I can go have some fun on the weekends if that helps... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Throw some quality parts in your D30, then find a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25, XJ/MJ D44, or Explorer 8.8 for the rear. You won't have any problems unless you drive like Tim Cameron, and the rear axle swaps are all documented, and you don't have to change the front even... I consider 33s to be within the acceptable range of tire sizes for a HP D30, and people accuse me of being overkill about things. By quality parts for the D30 I recommend some new axleshafts and u-joints, as your axle probably has the terrible 260x joints in it, and if you regear it buy decent quality gears. Also if you get a locker get a full case locker or a Detroit Truetrac limited slip; a lunchbox locker is kinda asking for trouble IMHO, although plenty of guys have had great success with them and I even run one...

Since he can fab, they are a possibility. But ... they're wider than the TJ/XJ/MJ axles. And that brought problems, because when Jeep made them wider they didn't make the fronts stronger. When people started putting big tires on them and actually using them like Jeeps, those wider axles bent. There's an aftermarket for kits to reinforce those axles. The ones I've seen consist of tubes that fit inside the OEM tubes to beef up the wall thickness (or lack thereof), and gussets to reinforce the Cs where they mate to the axles. Overall, for an MJ you're probably better off with the front axle from a TJ Rubicon. I had mentioned the need for the sleeves and a truss or gussets. The reality is that the same problem exists with the XJ/MJ axle to only a slightly lesser degree, but most guys blow them up before encountering it because of the other areas of weakness. The other thing is that since the JK axles are wider, you can run wheels with more backspacing, or without spacers/adapters (where I'm at on my MJ), thus bringing the track width back in and keeping the leverage on the tubes basically the same as the original D30 would have seen. And since you are running higher backspacing wheels/no spacers, you preserve the scrub radius and keep the wheel bearings happier. The TJ Rubicon axle is low pinion. I don't think it has good bang for the buck, as it's just an old style D30 with an old style LP D44 center section. Pretty much the worst of both worlds, you get some upgrade in R&P/carrier strength, but increased driveshaft angles/yoke vulnerability, and all the other weak parts that his D30 already has. It's got weird thick gears with odd sized bolts too, IIRC, not that it really matters. It is basically a direct bolt in though, which unfortunately also makes it expensive.