DirtyComanche

Wait. Yeah. Blah.

Just check the whole bloody thing. You never know what you'll find.

They need to be narrower, I think, actually. Okay, I'd have to check the bloody FSM again. Mj are like 42.5" centre to centre, IIRC. Xj are 44~.

Those 12 pointers that I got from the stealership had red-locktite preapplied. 10 minutes? @#$%, try half a day. (Oh, and if you're asking about my avitar... it ain't gonna change!)

Renix were all 4.0s from 87-91. The only 4.0 that was offered that's not renix was in 92, very rare.

Well, this way he can take them off when he wants to...

Because it's not the springs that are causing the width issue. It's the spring hangers...

I'm going to try using pinon flange shims (if you can call them that) to compress the D/S 1/2" more than it was before. Hopefully it won't bottom out. Oh, I got the thing out. Gonna start teardown tonight and see what's going on.

Yup.

Where about do you live? My 4.0/5spd gets pretty decent milage. My driving habits and tire size are really the main issue though. For a true DD only I'd probably get a gutless 4cyl. But they're pretty boring. The 4.0 at least lets you have some fun.

I have an SYE. The shaft pulled apart. Seems I have hell of a lot more travel in the rear than I thought... I'm gonna have to think about this.

My rear driveshaft slipped out (Odd) and kidna messed it's splines. Thus I couldn't get it back in. I turned around and 2wheeled it out. Other than my front axle went boom. It was a good night. I'll get her tomorrow.

Cut the lower third of the hinge off. There ya go. Free. It works. Oh, and they hold really good. Mine only gave once I had ripped the door forewards (backing up) so it was parallel with the fender...

Well, reading the only reference I have for welding (lincoln book) it is completely acceptable to weld the cast in 1-2" incremements without totally pre-heating it. I think it just wouldn't be a good idea if it's totally cold. Mine was done 'professionally' and I asked them and they said it's not a problem. They pre-heated it with a torch.

Ya know, you could probably get another wife on ebay.

The stocker aux fans work if you want to add a fan. To do a conversion you're going to need to run duals just because the rad is such an awkward shape. Well, or one big one that hangs down kinda low. Personally I've got two taurus fans that are supposed to go in once I find time. I'm only doing it so I have the choice of not running them in the winter, and running them while the truck isn't on (short periods). That and I need a little more clearance in that area for something else...

It's probably a 1360 series joint. That's what most exploders got. The tubes spinning is actually fairly common. It's really more of a suspension/weight related thing than torque I think. I've heard of plenty of cherokees doing it, not always with a 4.0. And it's not the worst thing in the world to weld. Although I didn't do my own. All you need to do is use high nickel rod and pre-heat with a propane torch, welding about 1-2" at a time. The casting won't distort as the tube slips in it a fair ways and keeps everythign centred. Apparently, that is.

Get more pics.

Looks pretty cool. But that front bumper has got to go.... And you might modify the stepside box to make it match a bit. I actually dig that look. $#!&, I should go by the longbox one I know of, cut the frame down, and put a stepside chev box on it. $#!&. I'm gonna be really broke now.

The tubes spin in the housing as the $#!&ty plug welds (they aren't welds actually) go pop and the tube spins. The companion flange is his fancy name for the adapter on the exle end of the driveshaft that bolts to the round flange on the pinon. I'd show ya a pic if you really care... (Oh, and those 12-pointers are a bish. I didn't know the thread pitch on them so I had to buy replacment 12-points from the stealer. Cost me about $10! And I've still got 12 points. I'll deal with it sometime.)

On the whole leaf conversion, it can be done cheap and easy. But ya get what ya pay for. BrettM did his right. Search pirate, and there's a couple that were done uber-cheap. Personally I'd just build some radius arms. Or do like Pete and steal the ford radius arms (and D44) and make them work.

The problem is that I figure there's two types of rolls that I will have: The mild flop/over a couple times. I've come close to doing this more than once. The "Oh $#!&, we're gonna be at the bottom of the mountain when this is over" sort of roll. It happens, very rarely, but some of the areas I go to you can't always say the whole hillside is firmly anchored. The first is a lot easier to deal with. The second I think it's just based on luck. But if an exo will potentially make the difference, I'll do it. This won't be an overnight project though. But, the local guys will help me on this one. It's jsut like doing a yota :nuts: so they don't think it'll be too hard. Well, the design part at least. I'm gonna have to really think about this though.

I'm gonna exo it.... It's set in stone now.

Well, that's why I was going to do this, with the idea of adding an exo similar to the front first. But it seems it might just make more sense to do it all in one go.

They go for like $600 - 800 cnd here. Total BS.