DirtyComanche

It's ment more for improved flex than lift. How much lift you get depends on the springs you use, and where you mount them, and how long you leave them. Personally, I didn't bother with it partly because I'm lazy, and partly because they are apparently rather unstable when off-camber.

Google search it, there's about 300 writeups on how to do it to CJ/YJs. It's the same concept.

Try it first. It will probably be level... Or really close.

Go do something as a change of pace. Electrical issues? Spend 8 hours trying to figure them out. Then when you go back to fabbing everything seems really fun.

Most people seem to run 2"x.188" DOM for their links. Which means the sch80 would be pushing it. Sch160 would do it though. Oh, it's not for poop. It's structeral steel. It's as strong as HREW/CREW. Regardless of what people tell you, it is rated for deformation/tensile strength. But, I'm going to reuse the steel I've got, I think.

You could try the stealer. It's that or a junkyard I think.

You'll need to purchase a right side brake hose for the left side, and run new brake lines on the axle. You'll also need shock mounts. And the flanged adapter for the pinion (grab while getting the axle). Oh, it's also a hair narrower than a stock axle, a set of spacers would be nice.

Hit it with a flap disk. I made sure it was nice and rough. And clean. Then primer (high zinc) and finish coat.

Nope. It's just going to go here along with all the other crap associated with this. If nobody answers, it's no big deal.

Now I'm toying with front suspension ideas... My current setup is a Rusty's LA (radius arm) kit, but I'm only really using the arms. They are alright, although I will admit I don't like the construction/design of them. Actually, I think they're plain stupid. They use a threaded joint at the body side without a jam nut. The threads are kept greased (hopefully) by a boot. They used this to make up for the pathetic flex that the stock style rubber LCA bushings give. The axle end bushings are also stock style, and the UCA ones blew up after about a half hour... (In fairness, they were probably as old as the truck) They are actually .225 wall 2" DOM though. Good steel. Pic: Image Not Found Anyway, since I'm building a new front axle anyways, I have the oppertunity to do away with all this crap. But, it's a little bit of time/cost vs reward situation. Now, the questions. Should I run a radius arm setup if I'm going to be redoing this crap? Or should I be looking at trying to do a three-link with panhard? If I was to run a radius arm setup, would it be acceptable to run one with only one UCA (say on the passenger side) to control caster? I've heard of doing this before, as it'll prevent binding and from putting so much stress on the housing. Obviously my material selection will have to compensate for the relative strength difference between running two UCAs. More on that. Lastly is my material selection. Obviously if you're a do-gooder you'd order up some DOM. However, I couldn't be bothered. Unless I recycle my current steel. If I was to run a radius arm like setup, I would bend the links slightly for clearance. This leads me to feel I'd like to use pipe. Besides, it's cheap. Sorta. 1.5" sch80 would probably do fine, eh? Any chance I can thread the end of it for a joint easily? (If you run the numbers on A-53, there sch80 is actually going to be bloody strong...) Oh, one more thing. How the f' do you calculate antisquat/dive, roll centre, etc with a 3-link? Is it essentially the same as a 4-link? (If so, I know how to decently) (If none of this makes any sense, sorry)

You can plate the unibody, add extra crossmembers, or add rock sliders or an exo cage. Oh, bumpers help in the front too. You don't need to bother with a MJ unless you're going to be really evil to it. Or it's in bad shape. Plating it is a b*@$£. If you take 3"x3"x.250" box (IIRC) and split the top off of it, it will slip over the uniframe rails from the tranny mount area back. Drill a lot of holes in the box and rossett it, then stitch the top. From the tranny mount foreward I used 3"x4"x.250" 90* angle and 3"x.250" flat bar and built my own 'warped' channel to fit the contours of the body. Again, rossets and stitch welds to hold it in place. From there foreward I'm not totally sure what's best, probably taking more flat bar and rossetting the hell out of it.

If you use 4.0L pistons and shave the deck you'll get 10.3:1 CR or something. There's other options though.

Pat, his buildup is here http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3697 IIRC, he's running a HPD60 front, D70 rear, 38s, 4-linked 1/4 elliptical rear, radius arm front, SBC 350 (On propane) and a lot of other jazz that I don't remember. Anyways, as far as propane goes, I flog it only because it's avaliable cheap here. And it actually is avaliable, all the major gas stations sell it. As long as you run a higher CR and slightly different cam (longer exhaust duration) you'd never know you were running propane. However, it's bloody simple in comparsion with FI, gets pretty good milage (saves money here) and has true all angle operation, and a lot less moving/breakable parts. Not to mention you can plug your BBQ into it once you make camp... Oh, propane works well for budget strokers that have a high CR. Sure as hell beats running premium at least.

Bingo. Only the 3 peice sliders and single peice are listed for stock replacement glass.

I wouldn't put another frame under it. I'd cut the cab off and build a real frame.... or Tube the whole thing. I'll show you pictures of kraqa's ZJ if you want to know what I mean. It still has the unibody in there somewhere. Well, some of it.

You can get some cool chevy stuff. Like the small-block 454. Wouldn't that be fun to play with? But yeah, probably shouldn't.

What? Never heard of hardcore redneck engine swaps? You just need a whole new drivetran, and you put the bloody radiator in the back. Jeep stock stuff is crap anyways. And you can sell it and pick up a parts chevy and still be money ahead. Okay, maybe a 4.3 (V6) would be a better choice regarding fittament. You could still run a radiator in the front with one. I know they aren't exactly powerhouses, but aftermarket parts are cheap for them. Strokers just kinda hit me as not being worthwhile. I know of enough YJ/CJ/TJs that are running 350s to convince me that it wouldn't be that hard. You might have to hack up the unibody a bit. But I'm never opposed to that. Actually, I don't care what you do as long as you run propane.

I guess I should have mentioned that. However, the frame part of it isn't really conventional. It's just formed sheetmetal. Although that doesn't mean it's weak.

Yeah, they all are. They're built on the XJ cherokee platform.

I'd do a swap instead, personally. If you look at the cost, you could just throw a 350 in and be money and power ahead. Although, if I was to do all the work myself and run propane, I might consider it.

Well, my AR-767s were black, and I really liked the look of the truck. And the chrome on those rims was f'd anyways.

That's because he cut it off flush with the bracing. I did that with mine, thought it looked horrible, and took off about 2" more out of the whole fender.

Image Not Found Man, that's a useless pic.

Well, I'm busy with finals and $#!&... but I did managed to do something! From this: Image Not Found To this: Image Not Found

Now, my cab window was broken. The glass is discontinued, so I had to junkyard myself a new window. The only one I could find was a one peice. I'll get you a pic in a minute. Hopefully.