DirtyComanche

Well, when I broke the extensions I was using a breaker bar with 60" of square tube slipped over it for more leverage. *Snap*

Yes, and I'm still looking into it. For fixed length stock replacement control arms, you could get by with 2" sch40. Personally I think I'd use sch80... But, anything longer and you might as well use DOM, based on actual cost and the convenience of being able to thread the end for a joint. That doesn't mean I'm saying it won't work though. I've now seen enough examples to feel confident with pipe. Only thing is, use a larger dia. than would normally be used... The main reason I actually wanted to use pipe was so I could bend the arms for clearance. However, I can propbably make up to a 15* bend in DOM with a pipe bender without kinking it. That's all I need. (Tube benders are hard to come by, can't afford one yet.) If you're interested in the actual numbers on pipe (A-53), I can tell you that it is almost exactly half a strong as DOM if you were to use the same size and wall section. It is the SAME(give or take 5%) strength as HERW, CERW, ERW tubing. Contrary to popular belief, it is rated for structeral applications and is made to as high of standard as any other steel rated for structeral applications. That is, if you buy the right type (A-53, and a couple others that are hard to get, but stronger). At this point though, I'm looking to use square HSS. 2x2x.25, weld a deep azz 1" nut to the end, and you can run a 1" stud into it easy. I've seen this setup work on a rig that is heavier than mine, has more power, and is wheeled harder.

One behind the centre cap as in the spindle nut? Have fun with it. I broke two 1/2" extensions trying to get it out the way I normally would. Finially I said f' it and bought an electric impact wrench. A good one...

Go steal a main leaf from a dakota pack or such, cut the eyes off, and add it to your packs under the main leaf, should be level. Spring rate will be slightly stiffer, but that's a good thing in this case...

They might crack. The stock ones are designed to flex... But hey, just keep an eye on them.

You can go higher than that. Mine are parallel with that fold in the fender, and the bolts that hold them on are moved up so I could trim even more out. And if you go to a larger tire you'll want to cut it closer to your door at the bottom too. I had some accidental siping going on with mine before I gt heavy with them. And fold that pinch seam! Just hit it with a nice sledge a bunch. I cut reliefs in mien first to make it easier, from a longevity stance that might not be best.

Heat em till they glow, put a 12 point combination wrench over them, hit the wrench with a sledge hammer. If you're using quality tools that actually fit right, you won't round it. Wailing on the wrench with a sledge gives it a nice shock and tends to break things free. The heat helps. Even a propane torch can do a decent job, but propane/oxy or acetylene/oxy does a better job, and if nothing else soaking a 70** rod in water and hitting it with 140+ amps will really get it glowing fast.

Coil spacers, and longer shackles (depending). It might make the control arm angles unbearable. Cut some bloody fenders, actually.

Body lifts suck.

The whole DD the 'manche thing just isn't working, between obliderating the rear D/S and the front R&P, and the whole quasi-street legal thing. And the cutlass is still a lawn ornament. Although, now it's a lawn ornament that I've sold for $100. Hopefully it'll be gone by the end of the week. So, what am I going to buy? An AMC Eagle of course :nuts: :nuts: :nuts: The good news is I've got lots of parts that will fit it. Oh, and it's only going to cost me $100. That and I can go 4x4ing when I get pissed off.

I have no first hand experience with 3/4 elliptical, but the people I know who ran it, much like revolver shackles, made the decesions that stability outweighed flex in this case. They were all CJ/YJs, and their wheelbase might have been working against them.

How'd you make the tank? 6x6.188 square tube with plate welded to the ends? Or something? How much pressure do you put in it?

It's ment more for improved flex than lift. How much lift you get depends on the springs you use, and where you mount them, and how long you leave them. Personally, I didn't bother with it partly because I'm lazy, and partly because they are apparently rather unstable when off-camber.

Google search it, there's about 300 writeups on how to do it to CJ/YJs. It's the same concept.

Try it first. It will probably be level... Or really close.

Go do something as a change of pace. Electrical issues? Spend 8 hours trying to figure them out. Then when you go back to fabbing everything seems really fun.

Most people seem to run 2"x.188" DOM for their links. Which means the sch80 would be pushing it. Sch160 would do it though. Oh, it's not for poop. It's structeral steel. It's as strong as HREW/CREW. Regardless of what people tell you, it is rated for deformation/tensile strength. But, I'm going to reuse the steel I've got, I think.

You could try the stealer. It's that or a junkyard I think.

You'll need to purchase a right side brake hose for the left side, and run new brake lines on the axle. You'll also need shock mounts. And the flanged adapter for the pinion (grab while getting the axle). Oh, it's also a hair narrower than a stock axle, a set of spacers would be nice.

Hit it with a flap disk. I made sure it was nice and rough. And clean. Then primer (high zinc) and finish coat.

Nope. It's just going to go here along with all the other crap associated with this. If nobody answers, it's no big deal.

Now I'm toying with front suspension ideas... My current setup is a Rusty's LA (radius arm) kit, but I'm only really using the arms. They are alright, although I will admit I don't like the construction/design of them. Actually, I think they're plain stupid. They use a threaded joint at the body side without a jam nut. The threads are kept greased (hopefully) by a boot. They used this to make up for the pathetic flex that the stock style rubber LCA bushings give. The axle end bushings are also stock style, and the UCA ones blew up after about a half hour... (In fairness, they were probably as old as the truck) They are actually .225 wall 2" DOM though. Good steel. Pic: Image Not Found Anyway, since I'm building a new front axle anyways, I have the oppertunity to do away with all this crap. But, it's a little bit of time/cost vs reward situation. Now, the questions. Should I run a radius arm setup if I'm going to be redoing this crap? Or should I be looking at trying to do a three-link with panhard? If I was to run a radius arm setup, would it be acceptable to run one with only one UCA (say on the passenger side) to control caster? I've heard of doing this before, as it'll prevent binding and from putting so much stress on the housing. Obviously my material selection will have to compensate for the relative strength difference between running two UCAs. More on that. Lastly is my material selection. Obviously if you're a do-gooder you'd order up some DOM. However, I couldn't be bothered. Unless I recycle my current steel. If I was to run a radius arm like setup, I would bend the links slightly for clearance. This leads me to feel I'd like to use pipe. Besides, it's cheap. Sorta. 1.5" sch80 would probably do fine, eh? Any chance I can thread the end of it for a joint easily? (If you run the numbers on A-53, there sch80 is actually going to be bloody strong...) Oh, one more thing. How the f' do you calculate antisquat/dive, roll centre, etc with a 3-link? Is it essentially the same as a 4-link? (If so, I know how to decently) (If none of this makes any sense, sorry)

You can plate the unibody, add extra crossmembers, or add rock sliders or an exo cage. Oh, bumpers help in the front too. You don't need to bother with a MJ unless you're going to be really evil to it. Or it's in bad shape. Plating it is a b*@$£. If you take 3"x3"x.250" box (IIRC) and split the top off of it, it will slip over the uniframe rails from the tranny mount area back. Drill a lot of holes in the box and rossett it, then stitch the top. From the tranny mount foreward I used 3"x4"x.250" 90* angle and 3"x.250" flat bar and built my own 'warped' channel to fit the contours of the body. Again, rossets and stitch welds to hold it in place. From there foreward I'm not totally sure what's best, probably taking more flat bar and rossetting the hell out of it.

If you use 4.0L pistons and shave the deck you'll get 10.3:1 CR or something. There's other options though.

Pat, his buildup is here http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3697 IIRC, he's running a HPD60 front, D70 rear, 38s, 4-linked 1/4 elliptical rear, radius arm front, SBC 350 (On propane) and a lot of other jazz that I don't remember. Anyways, as far as propane goes, I flog it only because it's avaliable cheap here. And it actually is avaliable, all the major gas stations sell it. As long as you run a higher CR and slightly different cam (longer exhaust duration) you'd never know you were running propane. However, it's bloody simple in comparsion with FI, gets pretty good milage (saves money here) and has true all angle operation, and a lot less moving/breakable parts. Not to mention you can plug your BBQ into it once you make camp... Oh, propane works well for budget strokers that have a high CR. Sure as hell beats running premium at least.