DirtyComanche

I dare say so!

Yeah, but who has the gauge. Basically, tighten it like Oizarod115 said, and hope for the best.

Umm, yeah, uh, I kinda doubt that switch is rated for the amperage of the fan. Welcome to electrical fires...

Yeah, they redesigned the HO head, and put the ports in the wrong place. I think you can still bolt it up though. It's either the header or the manifold that doesn't work.

At least he's raising his daughter right. (I'd tell you a story, but it would really take this thread downhill. I mean, from where it is even.) Oh, and leaky gaskets are an 'automatic oil changing system'. All you have to do is add a bit more every now and again.

I'd guess all. I mean, the 2.8 is a chevy V6. The 2.5 is a I4 thingo that's been around a while. And the 4.0 is an I6 designed (basically) by AMC back in what, '62?

Whatcha get?

When he says 'modding' he means cut the unibody and inner fenders off flush with the front of the cab, and make new frame rails in the front, and bend up some tube to hang the sheetmetal from. While you're at it, he strongly advises chopping the rear off, and again adding more tube, and a full exo cage.

I expected better of you! Where's the .500 wall HSS for bumpers? You know it's tempting... (Although, basically to hit something hard enough to bend .250 wall, you've probably already screwed up so bad it doesn't matter!)

My 89 is wired for it, I think. Was wired for it. Or something. I found a connector in there somewhere that looked like it was the right one. But yeah, can't tell, don't use any of the stock crap when I don't need to.

So, from the factory you weren't supposed to get a driver's side floor?

Leafs, personally.

Not exactly! Certain years had a TTB Dana50 instead, I do believe. And newer ones don't have Dana axles anymore, I think... But you don't want them anyways, as said, the bolt pattern is weird. The best* is the 77-79 HPD60's with kingpins; the pumpkin is also in an ideal place to not screw things up (pinion winds up where it would be with a HPD30).

Ford explorer. Nobody's tried it, but they are darn near the same length, same width, and same rate, but don't have as much static arch. You might have to combine the packs to get the desired results, though.

It'll wag the dog. Trust me. Comanches are so light that they get thrown all over the place by a heavy load. They're great little trucks, don't get me wrong, but they aren't ment for towing heavy things. And I'm not going to tell you they are just because I like to know that they're all in hands of people who will take care of them.

No, it's just about right. Hangs a little low, but you can shave it a bit with just an angle grinder. Or let the rocks do it for you. I know a guy who runs one in his ZJ with 38s. Part of the reason he went with it is that it came stock with 4.56 gears.

Probably not too bad, they fit in CJs and those things are small... Worst case you'll have to cut a bit of flooring or 'massage' it. I think.

The 4.0 will haul crap no problem, just you can't stop worth $#!&, and the 'tail wags the dog' all the time. I put a couple thousand pounds of rock in my bed (yeah, the springs loved me) and drove about 200Km. It was kinda like "Hmm, that light off in the distance, it's green now, but it might be red before I get there, I'll start braking...." and 10 minutes later I stop just in time for the light. But if you ain't going far, like 10-15K and nobody's around, what the heck.

It doesn't without adapters.

BS thing stuck in place. Image Not Found

Oh, now that's a can of worms! Any of (or possibly multiples of) the D20, D300, NP203, NP205, NP229 (easy swap), dual toyotas. And maybe a klune V. Or that madrooster setup to run the NP231 planetaries and a D300 (or a D20, I think) behind it. I don't like the Terralow kit for the NP231 because it wasn't ever ment to be a HD tcase, so you'll just run into more trouble with the extra torque. Money Money Money!

Or just weld the bugger. It's not hard to do, once you get it out. It's not like it's a cast steel/iron manifold.

If you want a measurement that does not depend on the height of the tire, measure from the hub centre to the bottom of the fender flare.

No 4wd version of the 700R4 would have come behind that motor. A 4wd version of it would have the wrong bellhousing pattern. So, you're looking at a rebuild to make it work. Now, the T18/D20 combo I talked about is cheap and readily avaliable. Any CJ guy probably has three or four of each behind their garage. Any junkyard will have a couple too.

Leaving them.... For now. I might brace them in a triangular fashion, but it would have made a lot more sense to do that before welding them to the truck. However, I think they're strong enough. Maybe I'll box the front of them. We'll have to see where the springs end up before I do anything else though.