DirtyComanche

I think it hangs a bit lower... I could be useful and pop the covers on my D44 and my 8.8 and measure from the carrier centre-line to the lip; but I won't. But the 8.8 definatly has a wider base... I'd go with the D44 or the 8.8. 8.8 can run spacers to correct the width. You can get a factory 4.10/disk brake/LSD one easily enough... The stupid35 kit is a REALLY bad idea, IMHO. And I hate the 8.25.

I'm not saying that it's a bad thing! It just doesn't make for easy reading material.

It is made like everything else that AMC did. A collection of re-used junk. It might have relevent information regarding the 2.8L, but for the 2.5L the chrysler FSM makes WAY more sense.

What years is it supposed to cover?

Hey, well, at least they admit that they are making money off it as scrap metal. The local guy insists that he doesn't :nuts: and that therefore my 'leftover' vehicles are not worth anything to him :roll:

Exactly! Oh, there's a AMC version of the FSM floating around on the internet. It's pretty useless.

I've got a hard copy... Way better than having to look it up any other way.

I always weld a nut to them and then turn 'em out... But, I don't know anything about drum brakes. Well, I understand how they work in theory, but I'll admit I've never actually had to deal with them. Gotta love having disks at all 4 corners...

Well, its got to be better than stock? Are you into building things? If so, I'd tinker with a cherokee rear bar (you can get 'em free) or front bar (again, free...).

The 242 should bolt up like it was ment to be there.

Ah, I'd grind it clean and see how bad it is. The hit it with rustoleum. I don't think POR-15 likes to bond to clean metal. Oh, and umm, good luck with the divorce! :nuts:

Probably. But I always make the parts boys check what tranny it actually is ment for... They can look it up if they aren't daft. Oh, and Ds, or DS, or D/S means driveshafts!

Oookay, As it sits: Image Not Found When I had the axle under it: Image Not Found As you can probably notice, there was a slight snafu in the location of the rear spring hangers. Conveniently they were just tacked (and not even straight) so I could whack 'em apart no problem. I still haven't fixed them though. You can see my new knuckles and steering arms (arms aren't torqued down yet). I plan to build new steering for it using ES2233L, ES2234R, ES2027L and ES2026R TRE's. Hopefully, I can get 1.25x.2XX tubing that will have the right ID to be tapped .875x18 so I can just screw the TRE's in. I will have to look up the correct size for that tap though. Or I might go with tube inserts. That or I'll build it out of HSS!

Pfft. I always figure that if I can't remember what it did or where it goes that ot isn't important... Mysteriously, I have a whole pile of random parts in my garage and a MJ that doesn't run.

:roll: Well, at least you got gas. It's annoying when you're in unframilair territory and there's NOTHING. ANYWHERE! IE, saskatchewan.

Mmm, all you 'need' to know is it's a reamer that tapers 1.5"/foot and that it should go from 7/16" to 1" or so. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... e&tool=all http://www.goodson.com/store/template/p ... IID=4488&&

Yer' can't flip the passeneger side using the stock drag link.

Anybody know what tapered reamer I'd need for 1/2-ton through 3/4-ton TREs? Or some place that has the chart. Failing all else I'll phone parts mike on monday.

Can't you only go down to 4.88 on the D30? Meh, whatever. I'd say 4.56 or 4.88.

The hell is a sport trac? I don't think they're avaliable here... Anyways, if it is a truck like thing, it might have the ranger 8.8. Which is weaker. And evil.

I had a pinched wire on my stereo. It pinch the illumination lead. It would cause the dash lights to work for a while, then blow fuses. Eventually it killed the dimmer switch too. So, take a look. And if not, replace the dimmer. It requires some contortionism.

They are. Sad how I can never be sure.

Are we sure? Back in 5!

But was that latex, linseed, or standard oil barn paint?

Bedliner works WAY better.