DirtyComanche

You'll be back to the BFG's after trying the MTR's!! Like it or not, BFG's are THE tire all others are judged by. For a street/trail tire. If offroad only, SWAMPERS RULE!!! Doubt it. The BFGs don't suit this area. That and I ate two sidewalls on the last trip. I run rock/logs/snow/mild dirt. Most of which the BFGs hate. I was going to get a set of (new) TSLs, but yeah, too poor.

Keep in mind that if you convert this axle to 5x4.5, but want to run a D44 front, well, you can't go 5x4.5 on a D44 front unless you run unit bearings (you do NOT want to go down this road). The wide-track jeeps at 63" rear, 64" front are actually not a bad width. If you run say a 15x8 with 4.5" BS it'd be barely wider than my NT setup with 15x8's with 3.5" BS. And I'm narrow enough to fit through pretty much anything that anybody else can (other than those stupid suzuki guys). True full-width is 67" WMS-WMS. Now, you never said what size tires you want? I hate the D30, so, I always tell people to get rid of it for anything over 33s. But, if you plan to run a D44 front, you're going to run into a lot of trouble if you keep that axle at its current width. Why? All W/T front axles are passenger side drop (If I'm not mistaken). This necessitates a tcase swap... Now, if you want to go D44s front and rear and at the current width of that axle and are willing to take the time to do the work; then I'd say keep it as is. I'd NOT consider narrowing it. I was narrowing a HPD44 for my front, and basically gave up simply because it was so time consuming and was going to cost me a bunch more money in the end. I wound up trading it off for - actually, it's going to decrease the cost of my chromos and 37s. If you want to stick with the D30 front, look for an 8.8 or an XJ/MJ D44, for an MJ/SJ AMC20, or a SJ D44. Or run an isuzu 12B with adpater to the 5x4.5 pattern... It'll net you 4.56s and disk brakes (LSD or 4.77 gears optional). Or even a bloody toyota rear.

Looking at how it burned... I think I could fix it in a very drunken weekend and have it running by the monday. It's not bad at all. But, if you want to sell it, I'm sure somebody will want to pick it up as it's an excellent starting point.

Actually, I hadn't considered that. The 12B calipers are bigger than the 8.8 ones, and the D44 calipers are way bigger than the D30... Hmm.

They aren't exactly round.

Either there's air in the lines or the master is on its way out. Just kinda squishy, but they do work. I need to re-bleed them and go from there.

I thought you already had too many?

For the amount of time I spend wallowing in the mud, it doesn't matter. Now just if I could sell my BFGs. Well, for more than the current highest bid of $302.01 for 5! (with rims)

Dude, fix it... Well, take a look at how bad that is under the hood. If you're just going to be re-wiring and resensoring, and putting a new hood on, it's a weekend project. Although, the fuel lines and crap will probably be wrecked too.

Well, the reason it wouldn't be worth anything is it won't run. I'd rewire it. But, that's because I'd be putting a minimal wiring setup on it.

As it is, not much.

Nah, it's turning the motor over. That's why I said to use 4lo, it means that it has to turn the motor 2.72X more - making it very hard. That's why you are supposed to leave it in 1st or reverse.

The problem with snow is that it really is a varied surface. It's like how you cannot compare the rocks of moab (dry, high traction, few sharp edges) to the rocks of the BC coast (wet, very low traction, sharp as a porqupine). The BFG M/Ts did fine in the deep stuff. But, the hard packed/icey stuff they were horrible as the tread blocks (and compound) is simply way too hard. I had to heat them up before attempting one of the hills - so they'd actually stick. The reason A/T tires are often recommended over M/Ts is that they are siped from the factory, and have smaller tread blocks that flex easier. But, deep snow, well, an aggressive tire works fine. Most of the big guys ran boogers.

Put it in 4Lo.

Well enough. It's an easy run - they just show up because it's a charity event. And they like wheeling... My tires were the limiting factor. Damn the BFGs don't work in snow. What I need to do: -Fix the windshield wipers -Fix the tcase linkage (it died, so I couldn't get 4hi, so I was in 4lo and 5th trying to get enough wheel speed on the ice) -Press new bushings into the rear shocks -Wire the fans (I booty-rigged a under-hood switch) -Find the punctures in my tires. I now have 3 flats... I think one might have been a sidewall. -Fix the TRE that is spinning. -Pull the third out of the 12B and see if the LSD is done. If so, weld it. -Figure out why the brakes are so weird Next planned mods: -Selectable hubs (yay for drive flanges) -Hydro-assist. I need it BADLY! Possibly make an all-new steering setup at the same time. The current one is ghetto. -New tranny crossmember, mount, and skidplate. The current one woked well other than it's stiff, and is just a modified stocker so it hangs quite low. -Tow rig and trailor. And an exo. Okay, I need more money...

I was gonna say just inform the woman that you now have a relationship that consists strictly of her making you sandwhiches, and sex. It saves a lot of time that way. But, I thought somebody might get offended.

Sorry to see it happen. Grab a hood from the junkyard, and a new harness and rewire the bish.

Well, for about 3 months it is going to be all snow! Then it's back to rock and trees. Okay, there's dirt between the trees but you spend most of your time driving over fallen ones or hitting the standing ones. The BFGs suck so bad in the snow it's actually quite hilarious. Oh, and the MTRs have been cut. But, I'm quite undecided myself.

I can get a set of 37" MTRs with about 75% tread, on a set of 15X8s, and a set of superior chromos and u-joints for my D44, and a set of warn premiums. For $1700~. I think it might be time to get rid of the BFGs. Good idea? Bad idea? Wonder what I'll break now...

If I was V8, I'd be running propane. But that's me. I can get an impco 425 with adapter plate for a ford or chevy for about $30.

With some drilling. I ran mine with 5/8" bolts.

I'm a 350 guy. Just because they fit, have a huge aftermarket, are a dime a dozen, and bolt up to such wonders as the SM420/SM465. But, a Ford motor works to (I'd not go 302 personally...) as it still fits, and could be run with a NP435. In case you didn't guess, I'm not really into autos.

Look for a machine/driveline shop in the phonebook. They are often spicer dealers.

No. There is one light, that says "BRAKES". It serves both purposes. Okay, well, mine says (!) for parking brake, and I think there's a light that says "BRAKES" too. But, I'd have to look again.

Put the heep on jackstands. Then use a bottle jack to move the front axle around. And an alignment punch and a BFH once you get things close.