DirtyComanche

You get away with a radius arm front setup because flex steer can be corrected via steering input, and that anti-squat (well, anti-dive in the front) is not as important. In an off-road situation it is certainly not ideal. In a street application it is workable, as there is little suspension travel to cause flex steer, and the arms are at a much milder angle which allows you to still control anti-squat. Building a 3 or 4 link is not too much harder. Just have to plug the numbers... Or, even a 1-link.

The only dealership that I've ever liked was the chevy one. Mostly because he neither sold me anything, nor tried to. He flat out told me that he could not get what I wanted (an isuzu part) but gave me the names and numbers of about 50 places to try. Then talked to me about jeeps for about a half hour. I wonder why he works there?

Used. Yes. Used. The best way. Otherwise I'd drive accross the border. There's about a 50% markup right there. Or if you have a shipping address in the states, you can order them from some of the places in the 4wd mags for fairly cheap. Or, go hi-tech retreads!

Amen to that! I got my hands on a used lockright to replace the minispool in my front Dana 44. Why not just go hydro-assist? I'm thinking I can do mine for about $100. You could use BrettM's setup and come in under $100 (for the parts). I know you'd need to spend some money to get everything welded...

Yup. (Look up)

Yup. Mine are for sale! If I could ever convince anybody to buy them... 37" MT/Rs here I come. Now we get to see how strong an isuzu axle is... Long as you don't start out with say 3.07s and then go to 4.10s. You'd need a new carrier then. So, you'd have to reweld.

Too lazy to do it... It needs work. Sometime.

Oh sorry, forgot you mentioned that. That will work. I'd still do steering upgrades seeing as how the stock stuff is total crap. I calculated that I can't actually build the JCR setup for the price they sell it. It's a good deal. I only worry that the tubing might be a little thin? However, it should hold up fine for 99% of people.

With the D30, yes. Long as you don't need a carrier with a different off-set. 3.55 and higher is a different offset carrier than 3.73 and lower gears...

It locks both axle shafts together. Same as a full spool, but it slips inside the carrier and replaces the spiders like a lunchbox locker. No difference in wheel speed is aloud between tires. I have one in my front (well, a full spool) and you had better plan steering upgrades.

There's only one way to find out... Weld it correctly (spiders to each other, spiders to housing, put a peice of pipe in between the splined spiders and weld it to them too) and oil bath it when it cools. I be you'll break everything else in that axle first.

Propane is a waste gas from oil refining... But, they aren't aloud to burn it for environmental reasons. They sell it literally because they can't do anything else. I know of a couple vehicles (they're 5-ton trucks with dual tank setups, probably carry 800L of propane!) that would love to take advantage of that $80 fill.

Thought they did. Well, hmm, I'd think one doesn't exist then.

The camber, yes, but also the axle itself looks physically bent. I'll snap a pic tomorrow after class so you can see or correct me. I have to bring it to a mechanic shop to have them sign a paper verifying that the engine is installed properly. Maybe they can check somehow. Have you tried putting it in 4wd and seeing it anything explodes?

What's gas at? Prop? Here's it's .92/L for 87 and .46/L for prop (as of the hillbilly gas station by the airport). AvGas was only at $1.18/L. Not bad!

They're open for 20 minutes.

Unfortunatly it's odd-ball. Only the FSJ guys run anything like that... That really decreases its value. I'd ask $100~.

Phone. Actually, phone randy's ring and pinion. I know they stock a couple. Full and mini. Ask who makes them if you care. Oh, there's the lincoln if nothing else.

Properly setup you will lose no horsepower. Milage decreases slightly, BUT, given that propane costs me half as much as gasoline I don't care. If you shave your heads to increase the compression ratio, you can get even more power out of it... It's equivalent to 105~ octane. You have true all-angle operation, decreased wiring (almost ziltch if you want), and it atomizes far better allowing for a lower idle (and lugging), and decreased carbon buildup and emissions. My whole setup so far has cost about $100 or something. 180L~ tank, regulator, vac lock off, mixer... Just need to build that adapter and crimp some hoses. I'm going this route as I hate wiring, have a leaky gas tank, and find I don't get enough capacity out of a stock tank anyways. And all the vacuum hoses can be eshewed. Is it worth it for the kit? Up to you. One last thing to consider is how easy it is to get a fill. All the major gas stations carry it here, but, elsewhere is different.

There's one nipple that has to be capped I think. But it was a long time ago I got rid of mine.

The camber is totally f'd? That's a set of bad unit bearings. And possibly ball joints...

How'd you determine that? The XJ/MJ/TJ/ZJ/WJ axles will all bolt in. Vac-disco was done away with in 92 I think, narrowing it down to XJ/MJ axles... Personally I'd get rid of the vac disco, as all you have to do is pull off the vacuum lines that go to the tcase and throw them out/cap them as needed. You'll lose the indicator light. Then any newer 4cyl axle will work. Look for one with 297X u-joints.

Well, they only travel a couple inches normally... But, the shocks actually allow the suspension to travel quite a lot farther. Both upwards and down.

You can soften them out by triangulating the crap out of them. Look in my thread in the projects, there's an @$$-shot of my truck if you want to see what I mean.

White with black cow spots. Cowmanche. It looks cool.