DirtyComanche

The more hardcore guys would plate the holes up and put a skid over the entire belly. Doesn't matter unless you live in rocks, and can't stand a few dings underneath.

Bolts to the AX-15, right? Somebody did it.

Take the cap off and drive it. Find a good steep hill and face down it and rock the thing.

Cheapest would be to grab another 2.5 out of the boneyard, or maybe a jeep that's parked at wal-mart. I'd put a V8 in it. I bet you'll not regret it.

It's a BA10/5? Then you have to grind down an extension for a ratchet. Or buy metric steel (square stock).

The extra width doesn't bother me! So, I figured it's the best option. The ones that weld inside the lip come out narrower than the ones that weld to the outside. Depending how nice your rims are, you might look at a junkyard set. Finding a set of 15x7s is easy.

Anybody got some? I think I should pick up a set. Figure it will make life more fun. http://rockcityfab.com/beadlocks.html http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/ I think the second option is better because they seem to understand the whole shipping predicament I'm in. But, anti-coning rings for free... Hmm.

Duallies are stupid off-road... Once you let enough air out of the tire so that they touch (as it says i nthe ad) you create a massive friction point. Say hello to tire failure. If you want a wide tire; buy one. Although, I think it would be kinda cool to cruise around in.

JCwhittney or whatever-the-fawk they're called sells replacement stock packs. No idea if they are any good. It's that or the junkyard. Or order some nice alcans...

You can't do it like that. The gears must be "set up" properly. If not they can burn up or break within miles or even less. Gear set-up is one of the very few things I will gladly pay to have a pro do (and it's $150-250 per axle). And I would personally NEVER consider using a Dana 35 for 33s, no matter what other people have thus far gotten away with. Especially when Explorer 8.8s are everywhere in the junkyards. Actually, 90% of the time you can get away with it. BUT - that is if they are truely the same axle. As in they came off the same line. Wether you can do that in this case I don't know. If not, it's a great chance to learn how! I mean, if they explode, who cares? But, I'd buy a real axle. There's a D44 rear with a full spool and 4.88s that's going for $100 around here... Look around for deals.

What would you guess? They're fake. I'd bet money on it. But, they're also wider. They increased the track slightly for 'stability' - ie; so morons stop rolling them in intersections.

It stays inside! So, nope. The nuts are fine. They're acorns, but they're the right length for the studs. The studs are also the right length for the rims... To top up the fun, nobody stocks the studs I need! Had to order the damn things in...

Looks a little lacking in creature comforts. (I hope he put a floor in it... or you gotta use the Fred Flinstone brakes)

They were torqued right; at least I am pretty certain they were. I check them after I drive it normally... Maybe I should try before from now on... 4 studs were gone, either sheared or stripped and fell out. Two were still in but stripped. I was doing about 40km/h when I felt the wobble and stuck my head out of the window and went 'oh $#!&'. It hit the pavement pretty hard, but I think the rotor is still serviceable. There was some thread damage on them before, as it was a junkyard axle... Guess it serves me right for not replacing them.

I think it's 3.73. Anyways, it's a pretty straight foreward swap. There's a couple of links to write-ups in that FAQ that's lost in the general section. Get the companion flage with the axle, and the u-bolts, and the springs plates. It makes life easier.

You drop it, you have to drop the track-bar.

Well, if anybody is in my neck of the woods and finds all of the lug nuts and studs that I lost - I want 'em back! So, are aftermarket wheel studs better than OEM ones?

I wanna see his inner fenders!

You can always try putting it in 5th.

It was introduced mid-year, eh?

LP D44 centre, D44 inners (sorta...), D30 knuckles and outers. It is a POLISHED TURD! Oh, and they cost a LOT. Anyways, there's no front axles that you can swap in that are the right width and bolt pattern and any stronger, other than said rubi axle, and there's an 80-something dodge axle that came in some sort of smaller truck (dakota? dunno) that is rumoured to be the right width and sports the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. However, it has unit bearings like the D30/Rubi-D44, and is apparently very weak. If you're willing to change bolt patterns, then you can narrow a Ford HPD44. I was going to do that - too much work.

Do you have to move to the place that wins the poll? :brows: Because if so, you're about to become :Canadaflag:

None were factory. Swaps happen. Since they bolt right in. Some junkyards don't even know the difference - and will even sell a D44 off to a mechanic that will go "Hmm? Ohwell, it bolts in." But, I've never found one that had been swapped. I've seen very few originals too. Oh, another thing, are you sure on the year of the XJ? Yards f' that up too.

Not to mention that it's probably the most successful Jeep product ever.

Kia... I say nothing more.