DirtyComanche

Are they the same? Since I bought a HO cherokee (still sight unseen, I get it in a month when I'm off tour) and it has a bad serpentine belt, I'm thinking I might as well relocate the alternator to where to AC compressor is normally. I know how to do it on a renix, but I'm not sure if it works on a HO. Unless it turns out the cherokee has AC, in which case I'll probably just use it as a compressor. Similar? Totally different?

Okay, say it that way. :nuts:

That's where they normally break. Threads are a great stress riser. The TRE is way to small for the application... Result, it cracks through the threads and breaks eventually. I think he might use cheap TREs too, but heck if I know... XJ/MJ track bars are often really hokey because the aftermarket copies the basic design of the stock peice. Without changing the bracket at both ends and really thinking about clearances you can't fit large enough components in there to realistically not expect an eventual failure.

I've seen pictures of rusty's control arms do that too... His trackbar is really just all bad. I've seen the bracket fail too.

Diesel jumped in price here again. I'm considering selling my dodge cummins. Now isn't the time for a diesel swap, IMHO. Otherwise it'd be cool. (It now costs me about $200 to fill the dodge, maybe more. Which gets me about 1000-1200km without towing anything and having the truck totally unloaded. Diesel is going up in price faster than gas too)

I'm suprised how many of you have actually done it, I guess that's what happens when you live in a country with such a large military? Getting poked sucked, but as long as everyone bends over the tails and you work carefulley you won't be too often. Same thing happens with cotter pins if guys don't bend them over well, and trim the ends to the right length - if they're done the helicopter style (which isn't approved on aircraft, ohwell) you rarely get hurt even when you have your whole arm in some dark hole. And for a simple explaination of what it is... The bolt heads, fitting, screws, etc, all have holes drilled through then in places such that a peice of thin stainless (or monel or brass) wire can be slid through them. A peice of wire is started in one bolt head, pulled tight, and twisted to the next bolt head. The trick is the wire enters/exits the head in a manner that if one of the bolts is to turn to loosen it will pull the wire tighter which will pull the other bolt to be tighter. That way nothing can move very far. Removal is easy, just cut the wire and pull it out with duckbills/pliers. The biggest problem is that you either have to buy drilled head bolts, or drill your own. Drilling your own wouldn't ever appeal to me, I don't have that type of time. AN, NAS, MS, etc hardware (the real stuff) is all avaliable with drilled heads and threads. However, it is expensive. Anyways, I like it. Which is good since I deal with it every day.

TNT, have you test stuffed the suspension with the front cut like that? Does it allow for much more uptravel?

I don't actually have twisters, just duckbills and side cutters. I've wanted to buy twisters but haven't got around to it (strap-on wants about $200 for the reversibles). It makes it a little harder to do long distances, but it still works fine.

Eagle, 99.975% of the time you're right, but this time you're wrong. The comanche I have owned for a large part of my life had the 'Sportruck' decals, and I remember them vividly. After all it was the tail of them that I destoryed after my encounter with a fence - which had a lot of spectators as it was within a block of my high school at the time.

The thing with it is that, once you're good at it, it's so fast that it's hard to not justify using it. And I hate the thought of random bolts backing out on me.

Ah, opinion. I'd not put them on. I think they look a little too 80's for me.

Up to you. Do you like the look?

I like lockwire. It's used EVERYWHERE on aircraft. A fastener can't possible back out if it's done correctly, even if it is installed wrong or under heavy vibration. Example: Anyways, my friend was looking at my dodge, and commented on how my timing cover (it's a cummins) was missing some bolts - but that it was entirely normal since they always back out. That made me kinda frusterated. So I think I'm going to steal some drilled head bolts from work and lockwire the stupid things. In fact I think I'm going to start doing it on a lot of things. (I know, this post has no point, I'm bored)

I could probably make a small fortune reproducing the originals. Seems like people want them. Other than for me to ship them to anybody would be retarded expensive.

I'm pretty sure they're supposed to be nocturnal. I used to see them at dusk all the time where I used to live. And you could smell them when somebody annoyed them. Never delt with getting rid of them. Prevention works wonders.

However, there's a lot of vehicles that don't dim that way. Most new(er) ones don't.

That's the spirit. The more times you do it on the same vehicle, the faster it is. Especially if you cut off/remove any of the BS stuff when taking it apart the first time...

Who makes the ultra-bling bead locks? And are those maxxis bighorns? They don't sell maxxis tires (of any sort) north of the border.

I think it's far more fun when somebody posts a question like "Help, it dun run, I fiddled with some stuff and it still no worky" and here's real no information to go on. Besides, I don't want to list my mods. I only have like 3.

TJs are about an inch lower, or so.

The timing isn't great though. I might have to pay to store it. Or not. I know I could leave my dodge in secure parking at the airport (employees get free secure parking) when I'm on tour, and leave the XJ there the rest of the time. That way I can get away with only using one parking space at my apartment (I only have one).

I don't change things till they fail or show signs of failing. To me jeep components do not time-expire. My MJ has the factory starter... My old XJ had the factory starter. They were built better it seems. Anyways, I'm not sure how you normally test a rad. However, I'd just swap it in and see if it works. A rad takes a couple hours the first time, eventually you'll get it down to a half hour or less. But if that's really not your ball game, I think you can plug the inlet/outlet, fill it with water, then connect about 10psi of shop air to it and see if it weaps or leaks. Not worth the trouble if you ask me...

I'd made a deal about a year ago with a friend. When his girlfriend finially got too scared of her jeep's reliability issues I would buy it at a highly discounted price. The time has come. Yeah :nuts: I can say no, but it's cheap. I could fix it and flip it, or part it perhaps, or just wheel it with a few mods. I'd already put together a plan at some point to build a streetable mild rig that'd be suited to where I live, but then I decided to make the truggy work for that. Oh, I'm very indecisive. I like 2dr XJs though. Which is bad.

So, looks like I accidently have bought a 2dr XJ. I think it's a 92. Has a 4oh, AX-15 (with a leaking slave cylinder for free!) and it has various other issues. Don't really have space for it, definatly don't have time, probably don't have the money to play with it either. Ohwell. The sale isn't final yet, so I have yet to decided.

Some junkyards really frusterate me. The listed price in the yard reads something like 'Rear axle assembly - $108'. So, you cut out the axle using your hacksaw since you aren't aloud 'real' tools. Then take it up front to pay. Then you learn that no, the pinion flange isn't included in that price, same with the wheel studs, brake calipers, dust shields, brake rotors and the diff cover. Oh, then they throw the $5 enviro fee at you (which I understand, but it should be upfront). Not gonna be fair with me? I'm not gonna be fair with you.