Andy in Pa

I have not seen mention of this, but to the OP, do you have an electric fan? Does it run on the temp switch? Was it running when it reached 210*F? Honestly, I can't remember anymore if the Renix fans come on at 210*F, but it would be easy enough to activate if you still have the temp switch in your radiator. Its located just above the outlet line at the bottom drivers side of the radiator. I suppose the other thing to try is to turn on the AC, as it should turn on the electric fan as well.

I grabbed a new one on Rockauto. I think it was $15 or so. The pressure switch was capped off like a fitting, so I didn't realize what it was until I looked at the old one.

The new dryer has a new pressure switch attached as well.

Aha, ok thank you. I have a new dryer to put on, but have not pulled the old one out yet.

Ok, I was finally able to resolve this problem. It turned out the NEW wiper motor I put in was bad. I swapped out the wiper motor, cleaned and regreased the joints, and low and behold it works great now. A.

Where is the low pressure switch located? I am working on an AC system as well, and have not found the low pressure switch yet.. I jumped 12vdc to the AC clutch though with it not running and the clutch is working.

Yes, I just found one called Enviro-safe R12 and bought it. I am going to give it a try. Thanks for the reply!!

Yes, this is much more achievable and makes more sense. Keep in mind that first chart is changing the length of the uppers by less than 3/16's" from stock to 4". This can't be more than a 1* difference in castor, probably less. It becomes more critical when the lowers are extended past the recommended dimensions (to push the axle forward slightly). But as long as everything moves forward the same amount it works fine.

I want to do this conversion, is this legitimate?? It would be so much easier than going to 134A. Anyone have more information on 414B?

Onto the next plan, that didn't work either. I am going to get a new wiper motor and recheck all the wiring to the wipers. Does anyone have an actual schematic for the wiring to the motor, from the intermittent module? Would like to see what voltage I should expect on each wire, and at what point. Would be nice to know what each wire does going into the intermittent module as well if its available.

Ok, the one I have says it will work for an XJ or a YJ right on the cover. Do you know what year YJ it was from?

Has anyone tried a different wiper intermittent module from an MJ or XJ from 91-96? If not I have one pulled and am going to give it a shot. A.

Yes, took the entire assembly out and greased the bushings, added the ground wire and put a new wiper motor in. I did not take apart and expose the gearing on the motor, but it was brand new so I didn't think it was important. Still did the same thing.

I just can't seem to get the wiper motor to run well in this MJ. I replaced the motor with a new one, and the wipers are still slow and get stuck on the windshield. The linkage is slightly loose but moves freely with no binding. The old wiper motor was doing this as well. It has the delay module under the dash, and I have tried to just take that out of the circuit, but it doesn't seem to work at all at that point. I feel like it could be that the new motor I got is also bad, but I suspect the delay module may be bad too. Will any year delay module work up until 96? Has anyone tried this? I just realized I have one in my 96 crawler XJ, so I can pull it and try it if they are compatible. Do you have any other recommendations? Thanks...

I actually added studs to 2 of the back mounts on the oil pan to help pull the pan up evenly when aligning the gasket and tightening the bolts. It really helped keep things in place.

This is something like the torque load is making the exhaust hit the crossmember, or maybe the front driveshaft is hitting the exhaust. The shifter seems to be moving alot, maybe motor mounts or tranny mount is loose? Is it factory t-case linkage? If so, it could be shifting and hitting the trans tunnel slightly. Can you feel it in the shifter when it does it? Put a hand on the trans and t-case shifter and see if you feel it as well. Could simply be the trans shifter hitting on the side of the trans tunnel or metal ring on the internal boot.

Ok, let me start off by saying that there is not necessarily a cheap way to lift any MJ or XJ this much. You definitely have a caster problem with that front end that drop brackets will fix. If the castor is anything less than 7 degrees, the wheel will feel very floaty and not come back to center well at all. If its in the negative, there is not enough camber adjustment you can make to make it perform correctly on the road. If your still running stock uppers, please at least weld some steel on the bottom to box them in. Otherwise they WILL bend if you plan to wheel this MJ. In the short term, drop brackets will at least improve your angles, help the suspension to cycle in its correct arch, and immensely improve the ride quality. The lower control arms you have on there are meant to work great UP TO 4" of lift. You have at least 6" there. And yes, the drag link should be on the bottom of the pitman arm 80% of the time. The only time it goes above like you have it is if it has bump steer... which means the drag link angle and track bar angle don't match.

Are you sure the Tomken one fits on a factory bumper? I would verify that with Tomken if you haven't already. I had the Tomken grill guard on their bumper for a while. the headlight surrounds are not that strong. I can see a deer hit bending it back, right into the headlight/grill. SOmeone sat on one of mine and bent it down. I was able to just bend it back up by hand as well. Honestly, I was not impressed with the whole thing. I had to set up and "keep straight" the main mounting points on the guard, because they were slightly tweaked, and since it all bolts together, you kind of need to keep it all loose until its mounted to the bumper. On the other hand, we just hit a deer with an OEM style grill guard on our MJ, and besides the factory bumper getting pushed in slightly (hardly noticeable) it did absolutely NO damage to the MJ. It looks like the main portion of the Aries type, without the headlight surrounds.

The switch pressure inlet could be dirty or have something blocking it too. If you can pick one up cheap enough, I would probably change the switch.

I would be tempted to just cut that outer sleeve/rubber off and see if it really affects the driveline that much. I have spoken to some driveline experts, and when a driveshaft gets to around 45" long, that is when harmonics and weird driveline vibes may become noticeable. As long as the rest of the driveshaft is OK, I would try that first.

This is a very slippery slope because there are probably a million little things you should do at the same time as doing this conversion. Do you want to lift it as well? Control arms/bushings, motor mounts, tranny mounts, ...etc... How mechanically inclined re you? Could you do the interior work, front axle swap and other work, and take it to a shop to do the tranny/t-case swap, driveshafts and finish it up? I just did this to my 89 MJ, but I have lots of local connections to Jeep parts, as well as nationally in some cases. I also did the majority of the work myself. Finding an ax-15 set up for 4wd was the most expensive part, but the rest of the BIG parts were free in my case. Of course, the D30 I got needed rebuilt with bearings, ball joints, seals, rotors, calipers, brakes... I went to a deeper gear ratio (3.55's) so also swapped in an 8.25 rear too. So leaf spring pads, drums, hardware kit, cylinders, pads and such for the rear too. I converted the t-case to an SYE version (4wd MJ driveshafts are VERY hard to find) and had a custom rear shaft built locally, and cut down and re-balanced a front shaft which was less than $100. My best recommendation to you is to get involved in your local Jeep clubs, meets and local repair shops and show that MJ around a bit. It looks VERY clean, and once you start talking to some of these folks about possibly converting it to 4wd, you may find some local help. Otherwise, figure its worth right around $6-7K as a 4wd 5 spd 4.0L if you talk to a shop and they give you a price to do the work.

Where are you? I have one in my shed. Not new, but worked perfectly before I converted to 4wd.

Definitely make sure the D30 in your Eagle is a HPD30 and not a LPD30. I looked into this a few years ago, and it seems like it was not the same as most D30 diff's that came in MJ's and XJ's. It may be a LPD30 like the TJ's and later XJ's had.

You may want to check the actual performance of the TPS with a meter. Hook up a meter and move the TB open/closed smoothly and slowly to see if the TPS has any deadspots. I can't help you on how to hook up the meter though, someone else will have to provide that info.

Ok, I had a similar issue, and it turned out to be a bad wire from the turn signal switch to the connector on the steering column. My right turn signal would not blink. I tested it all the way back to the steering column. I had JUST put in a used tilt column, and there is a dk blue wire that is for the right turn signal. THAT WIRE was broken. With the tilt mechanism I could push my column all the way down, and while holding it there it would blink properly. I first tested it at the column connector, realized it was the problem and I pulled the wheel off and got to the turn signal switch.. Got the switch mechanism loose (wires prevent removing it completely), cleaned up the contacts really good and put fresh dialectric grease on them, and spliced in a new wire for the rt turn signal. ...Problem solved....