Blue88Comanche

so the XJ AX15 crossmember should bolt up to the MJ (1988 BA10/5) with out too many problems thanks

will a XJ transmission mount cross-member fit a MJ? I have a very dead BA10/5 and want an AX15.. I found a 1990 AX15 in a local JY for a XJ..

that looks cool, I ended up getting a WARN Trans4mer Grille Guard for my Blue Comanche... that "Backbone" winch mount would be good if you wanted minimal changes to the appearance for 300, but the WARN offers more "protection", options, and looks better.. IMO anyway.. Backbone Warn Trans4ormer

your 300zx? what year?

its been raining every day for the last 2 or 3 weeks for me..

finally i was able to take blue to the mec today.. this morning while i was getting it ready i started the engine and let it idle for a few min. well i turned off the engine because i needed the key on the key ring and when i went to start the engine it would not start... so i pressed the gas and tried again and that time it did.. well now i need to have a foot on the gas to keep it from cutting out.. so mom is in her KJ and we start to leave the drive way when i tap the brakes.... never have my brakes worked so well.... i managed to stop mt MJ and mom's KJ.. so by the time we got to she shop mom tells me that she did not need to use her brakes the whole time... well at least i know those work for once... I got to talking with the mechanic and he said it should be around $250, that is a lot better than the $400 he said last week!

ok, thats just the first time i noticed it leaking out the cap after i turned off the engine.. i was not sure what was going on there.

so my Blue Comanche has been sitting for a few weeks because the tranny was messed up... well the other day i went out to start up the engine because i did not want it to sit up too long, i let it run for about 10 - 20min with a few revs here and there and some constant throttle.. the electric fan was going and the hood was also up.. after i shut off the engine i noticed the bottle was full and started to leak water from the cap.. while the truck was running the bottle was about 1/2 full but filled up when shut off. and because i can't figure out how to post youtube directly the the thread apparently the link is above where the clips should be... thanks

So would you go with the v6 or v8 axle? What are the differences in the brackets? Thanks

so will i need to relocate the spring perches on the 97+ 8.8s? and what adapter would i need for the drive shaft? and would i need wheel spacers? and as for the front D30 what should i do with it?

Uhhh what? That'd be one hell of a conversion. :agree: at least they spelled Comanche correctly but i do like the JK-8 :drool:

so if I end up doing a axle swap to get the 4.10 gears what axles have Disc brakes, that would be the bolt on or, near bolt on? I would like a stronger axle because, I use my truck as a truck, not just eye candy.... Right now I am sorta tight on cash because I really need to get Blue running again, mostly I am in "research mode" but if something comes up for a good price I may get it.

and would the speed on the speedometer change? what would be needed to correct it if needed?

I want to upgrade the gears in my D35 and D30 to 4.10... what would be a good brand to use? and what would be needed, what should be done while the diff. is dismantled? thanks

They spelled Comanche wrong.. :shake:

Thanks! That was one coat of primer, 2 or 3 coats black, and 1 or 2 coats clear.. can't remember... but used a spray can to do all the work. I am happy with the end result.

almost done with the box, just needs paint and some wiring should be ready then.. I will post some pics of it when I can..

you have the 2.5 right? how hot is that getting? do you have a potential over heat?... Guess thats one reason why you wanted a full cluster... my i haven't had any paint related issues with my 4.0

"This motor was originaly in a 70's model 2 1/2 ton Jeep comanchee" he spelled originally and Comanche wrong... and there was not a 70s Comanche.. was the J10 or J20 around then?

yes it should be

i painted my "saw-blade" rims black and polished the chrome on the caps

:drool: 5.7 I-6... that would make my life a lot simpler... Red is getting a 5.7... now that i have the chrome emblems... if it was a 4.0 and it was bored out too much it will start to lose strength, but not sure what that limit is.. I guess it is stroked as well... i am sure someone can answer those questions..

I have a feeling that you are wishing just a little that I found that other cluster... thing would have been so much easier that way... I don't know where that thing got off to.. I searched the house several times last weekend and still can't find it, guess i will steal the one from my room mates Audi for Red.. LOL

I sound a web page that has some info on "fluid Drive" manual transmissions.. ...I thought it was neat idea.. I wonder how well it would work for rock crawlers, I have heard that a auto tranny is better for that sorta thing.. "Chrysler’s first fluid drive cars were introduced in 1939. They were equipped with a standard 3-speed manual transmission and clutch, but had a fluid coupling in place of the conventional flywheel. This set-up was available on all Chrysler models from 1940 through 1948, and on DeSoto and Dodge models from 1941 through 1946, at a slight extra cost. From 1947 through 1952, the fluid coupling/3-speed manual transmission combination was standard equipment on all Dodge models and optional on DeSotos. In 1953-54, Plymouth offered a variant called “HyDrive”, which is a 3-speed manual unit and clutch, with the fluid coupling updated to a modern torque converter (pictured above right). These cars do not change gears “automatically,” but can be held stationary in any gear without disengaging the clutch. They can also be started in any gear without slipping the clutch, although 3rd gear starts are painfully slow. Fluid drive advantages are: 1. The car can be driven by declutching and shifting in the normal fashion, starting in 1st, shifting to 2nd, and then to 3rd. 2. Downshifts from 3rd to 2nd are greatly reduced. 3. In stop-and-go traffic, the car may be left in 2nd gear with the driver starting and stopping merely by applying the foot brake and accelerator pedals, as is done in a car equipped with a modern automatic transmission. 4. Acceleration from 5 MPH up in 3rd gear is entirely acceptable under most level-road conditions. 5. Ascending moderately steep hills does not require downshifting. 6. 1941 DeSoto with Fluid DriveUnder light loads and relatively flat road conditions, the car may be started from rest in 2nd gear with entirely satisfactory acceleration results and without putting any strain on driveline/clutch parts. 7. Starting on hills is greatly facilitated. The car may be placed in 1st gear, the clutch engaged, and the car held motionless by application of the foot brake only. When it is time to start, the driver merely steps on the accelerator. There is no need to coordinate the clutch/brake/accelerator with the inevitable engine over-revving and clutch slipping that are the hallmark of manual-shift car hill starts. 8. Wear on clutch parts is greatly reduced because there is no need to “slip” the clutch for smooth starts from rest. 9. Fluid drive cars have a lower numerical rear axle ratio, thereby reducing constant speed engine RPMs. There are also disadvantages: 1. When starting from rest in 1st gear, “off the line” acceleration suffers because of the “slipping” action of the fluid coupling. This is largely overcome at the point where the car attains a speed of 10-15 MPH, however. 2. Leaving the transmission in gear with the engine off does not lock the rear wheels. A fluid coupling car left in gear with the engine off will roll just as if it were left in neutral. Therefore, maintaining the emergency/parking brake is paramount, and care should be taken when parking the car when anything but absolutely level road conditions are encountered." From: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/fluidrive.html

:popcorn: I will need to be getting an engine for Red as well.