Blue88Comanche

Pictures Added to last post :wrench: I would love to have a selectable locker i just don't have the money for it. and i just bought an aussie locker... Before i discovered the carrier should be replaced i was looking at a $500 gear and bearing job ($250 for labor + the cost of parts)

I believe the heater valve can be bypassed as the cabin temperature is regulated with a flap in the dash.

Today I stayed home from work, (I was sick over the weekend and was told I take the day off to help recover). After laying around watching tv and waiting 10 min for GTA5 to connect, I decided I needed to get out of the house. So at 1 pm I started working on my Jeep. I while draining the oil I noticed it looked glittery. One the cover was off I removed the carrier and that's when I found the damage. The cross shaft roll pin was gone causing the cross shaft to slide back and forth but because of the ring gear was unable to come completely out. The pinion hear had several large chips on the tips if several teeth and in the midsection of the gear, the ring gear also had several small chips in the middle of the teeth. I have decided the carrier it self needs to be replaced as well. I haven't decided if I want to get one from the p&p or just buy a new one when I get the new gears in. Thankfully I had an extra LSD carrier at home and was able to stick that back in with out the ring gear. At least now I can drive it to the shop and around town some. My next task is figuring out why the coolant is boiling over. I am thinking about replacing all the hoses and the radiator some time after the new gears go in. It sucks being on a tight budget.

I take it you changed the from the stock 4.5 on 5 wheel pattern with new shafts or wheel adapters?

This is what my mechanic said to use.

I thought a longer speedometer cable is needed to reach the TC.

Well, if I ever get around to removing the rear ring gear in the d44 then technically she will be road worthy as a temp fwd. but I just need to save up the last couple hundred dollars for the new gears and installation.

wrong thread! :rotfl2:

any other motor smaller than the 4.0L got these manual trannys AX-4 = 4 speed AX-5 = 5 speed in 87 when the 4.0L was introduced to the MJ / XJ line up these are the available manual trannys for the 4.0 BA-10/5 = 5 speed and 4wd versions had a 21 spline output shaft (and was fairly weak and tempermental) in mid 89 i beleve is when the AX-15 was introduced. AX-15 = 5 speed and 4wd versions had a 23 spline output shaft later on the AX-15 bellhousing swapped to allow an external slave

Awesome Build! Keep up the good work!

Spun bearing? I am not sure what that is... But I can see the oil filter getting clogged faster if the engine is very dirty inside. 10 min before an oil change does not give it much time to work, most everyone I have seen use sea foam usually say at least 200 miles. I think it says there is not a problem running it full time in the oil on the can. I will buy one on my way home tonight and read over it. I remember someone on another jeep forum saying its ok to use between oil changes from the start, the only issue is the crud it gets loose and into the oil filter. There was another oil additive one of my mechanics told me to use, it helps clean the engine as well... I can't remember the name of it at the moment but when I am at the parts store I will try to find it. I know it comes in a 1 quart container, it is not Lucas. (But Lucas is good stuff as well) always change the oil filter when you change the oil! just plan to change your oil about a week after you put the sea foam in the oil. So would you recommend 2 or 3 cans? for you 1 can, third it between gas, oil, and intake (i use the Brake booster hose and a funnel). Just remember the jeep needs to be running while you add the stuff to the intake, and to do it slowly.. too fast will cause the engine to stall. also do this in an open area and if possible keep the smoke down wind of you, the fumes are toxic.

When I did mine I put half a can in the vac line for the brake booster, and half in the oil, and a half can in the gas. Because you have the 2.5 I may would only do a third can in the vac, and oil. I changed the oil about 300-500 miles later. I let it sit 10-20 min and started up the motor, it was having issues idling with the brake booster vac line connected, so I disconnected it again and let it run till it burned off enough stuff to idle with the BB connected. While the BB line was disconnected (and parked) I revved the engine. After a few min I reconnected the BB vac line and took it for a spin with a few hard accelerations and maintained higher than normal rpms. All said and done, I think it did help it idle smoother. And my 1/2, 1/2, 1/2 math works out to 3 cans... For 2 I-6 MJs Once I did put a whole can of sea foam in the oil AFTER my oil change not thinking about it, 3000 miles later it was still doing fine. I did the same treatment to my 4.7L WK, only 1/2 oil, 1/2 vac, 1/1 gas. The wk put out more white smoke than my Blue MJ.

I am going to add wireless chargers in my car and house eventually... at least then all I will need to do is set my Nokia Lumina 920 on the charger and it gets its charge without needing to fumble around with the wires and case. I just completely turned of my location services. I haven't needed them lately and it saves a good bit of battery. I also use my 4s as a iPod, I still hang on to it because it has some banking apps and some stuff oft work on it. The batteries aren't hard to change, just buy a cheap tool kit and battery from amazon. It might cost less than $15. The battery for dads iPhone was $8 a year ago.

I wish I had fog lights on my Comanche... on the plus side I already had the factory wiring hooked up about a year now... Just need lights and figure out how to mount them with my grille guard.

I was keeping tabs on it, I first saw it on several facebook pages. I think I saw it again on yahoo, after the polls where in.

the only issue I see is the Renix vs HO throttle body's and how they attach to the intake

that would be cool

:agree: So very true

I was browsing my usual websites when i came across this on Hackaday.com, I thought it was cool so here is the link to the Hack a day post http://hackaday.com/2013/09/09/jeep-dashboard-display-turned-into-a-desk-clock/ and the instructables link http://www.instructables.com/id/Custom-digital-clock-from-wood-and-Jeep-VIC/ Basically He took the Jeep Grand Cherokee (ZJ) Vehicle Information Display and made it a desk clock.. nothing super fancy but its cool enough i may give it a shot lol

sold the jeep today, and the extra engine/transmission/transfer case I had beside it. mom is happy I got it out of her yard lol

As far as winch mounting goes I have the warn trans4mer grille guard, yes I could have bought something cheaper but I liked the looks of this grille guard / winch carrier. With the winch carrier installed it will allow the installation of tow hooks or shackles (I used both, and the shackles are the best option) http://www.4wheelparts.com/Bumpers-Tire-Carriers-Winch-Mounts/Grille-Guard.aspx?t_c=64&t_s=268&t_pt=3774&t_pn=WAR60766 There is even a review for the product. what straps do I have in my tool box? for recovery 27k 30 foot recovery strap 8k Smittybilt winch (not in the tool box but you get the idea) for yard work 6k 10 foot tow strap 5 feet of chain I don't use these to snatch, just to drag tree limbs or logs I can't get in the truck I don't use tow straps or chains for recovery, for that matter I don't use a trailer ball hitch as a recovery point, one of my gym members family owns an off road shop, they have plenty of stories where someone put a snatch strap on the ball hitch and floored their truck, the 2' ball snaps off the hitch and becomes a cannon ball. he said he has personally seen where a 2'' ball shot through a tail gate, through the back of the cab, trough the back seat, trough the center console, into the dash and finally coming to a stop at the firewall. there is a ton of potential energy in these straps, if recovery is not done correctly someone can die. just spend some time on youtube watching failed off road recovery. good straps good recovery points think smart and maintain your tools its been said over and over but its always safety first

Cool, thanks for the quick answer. I kinda figured that it was something like that, lol

when i was making the build thread for my Dodge Charger R/T the forum kept changing the "R/T" in the topic title to "R/t" i finally had to change it to "R / T" so both letters are caps. I guess the software is set to make anything after the first letter lower case? the second question was what is this (see picture below) i just notices it a few min ago when messing with the Charger's thread but i don't see it available here.

I was going to make my Charger's build thread on a forum that was more of its platform... But there are too many adds, or I don't like how the forum is set up or I just can't figure it out.. Pete this Forum is awesome! I purchased the charger 8-5-13, and had a rough start. The car had intermittent starting issues, but Ford sent it to Dodge for 2 weeks and covered the bill.. The car runs like a champ now! I love the car, it drives great! I really need to hand wash and wax it.. Future plans: Tint the windows, remove the pin stripes, replace the small tires, replace the fog lamps, replace or re-paint the front R/T badge

good advise, I haven't thought of that till you brought it up.