Blue88Comanche

Any front skit plate from a Cherokee should work, the tc skid plate I thinks varies depending on the transfer case. there are aftermarket plates available as well.

The Gas company came out today and turned the gas back on. The gas Fireplace is nice to have working, hopefully my house won't explode while i am at work... some time in the next week or so i should be getting a gas stove and water heater was well.

I got a few things over the weekend, My E-locker arrived Friday and I wired in the switch for the Locker. I also bought a cheap set of fog lights from the Auto parts store and have them set up as well. Fog lights installed, but not aligned yet. After i ran the wiring for the locker, i decided the factory switch bezel needed to be cleaned up. I used Plasit dip to re-paint the bezel. It almost matches the same color as factory and it has the same texture as well. I am going to make or purchase a label for the front locker. I was going to use a factory switch but decided the larger light on the switch would be more noticeable.

Do you have the 97+ dash with the console?

I forgot about the imports having the D44 as well. I do remember checking 15 or so Hondas and Isuzus for the LS diff. I did eventually find one. Then I bought an Aussie locker for the open diff.

I love it! Because it has the sport suspension it a little stiff (in a good way). The tranny shifts great, and the engine is strong. The seats are awesome! The only issue I had was the security system rejecting the key when I first bought it.

I think I saw that picture on Facebook today.... I agree with above, find a new axle. Just some food for thought, when I was looking into my elocker people where having issues with the 8.8 elocker. The problem was how it locked I think. I don't know if it was ever resolved. The 8.8 can usually be found with Factory Limited Slip, however if you wanted a locker it would require a new carrier. If it is an open diff a lunchbox locker can be dropped in later. This D44 and 8.25 will be harder to find with limited slip (if that's what you are looking for).

i think that bend is for the taller lifts, if it where straight it would contact part of the LCA mount / shock mount on full drop. The shock mount area above the LCA mount can be trimmed to allow drop, i have done that in preparation for my WJ Control arms. i know its not the best pic but you can see how closely the LCA is to the shock mount in this pic

Wish I had extra money, this regearing process is killing my wallet. Lol What year neon did you get your injectors from? Where they new or used?

I don't know the part number but I will check my parts bin tomorrow after work.

Is the injector swap worth the money? Any other mods needed to go along with it on a Renix 4.0?

I also looked at this in the past. I liked the idea, but i think i read that the D30 housing was slightly different for the pump....

A metal drum over a fire or wood stove, use a pump to circulate the water through an aux transmission radiator /w a fan. A cheapish solution...

I can't wait till the gas bet hooked up again at my house. then I will be able to use the fireplace for once... and I will have a better stove put in as well!

Tonight is projected to be about 19*F, and I am not sure about my house heater... Last night it was set to normal heat /w aux heat and the inside temp never went past 61 when set to 70. It will heat the house to the set temp while in Emergency heat mode. It's an electric heater, I guess a heat pump. I grew up with in a house with a gas heater and this is the first winter in my house that I really used heat. From what I read heat pumps generally start loosing effectiveness at around 35*F. Is the normal heater working properly considering how cold it is outside?

Well it was a good gut wrenching game... well played FSU.

Well 13 seconds... It's scoreable..

Touch Down Auburn!

Well Duck.... Well played kick return...

WAR EAGLE! It's been a great game so far.

That size tire should not be rubbing anything.

Or just order online and type "comancheclub" in the coupon box. 10% off! I know that works for Hell Creek, not sure about general springs. I have the Hell Creek MT Springs and I like them

Nice!

Replace everything in the front suspension... Including the axle. Worked on Dad's MJ...

Instilling the Novak Cable shifter on an AX-15/NP242 combo I was in need of a new transfer case linkage setup after I replaced my BA-10/5 & NP231 with an AX-15 & NP242. I purchased the Novak Cable Shifter Kit for$195.85 shipped from Novak-Adapt.com. If you don't want to spend nearly $200 on a cable shifter, then take a look at THIS DIY Linkage, I rediscovered it after I ordered my Novak kit. Before I installed my kit I read over Flint54's install thread. I did not do all the modifications he did, such as to the shift gate. I don't know if Novak changed the kit between the time Flint54's installed his kit and I bought mine. The install took about 2 hours. A second person may be needed during the install. I did not need to remove the cross member or lower the transmission to install this kit, however it would have made things simpler. This kit is not exactly "bolt on" if you have a NP242 like me, some modification may be required. If you had Rhino liner sprayed in the cab you may soon regret it as I did. Keep in mind this is for General Instruction. This is how I did the install. This install was on a 1988 Jeep Comanche, 4.0 I6, AX-15, NP242. Also note my MJ does not have all the factory sized bolts as some have been replaced over the years, I may give a bolt size that is different from factory. Tools Required: Saftey Glasses Gloves Box Cutter (If you have Bed liner in the cab) Wrenches (8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 1/4, 1/2, 9/16, 15/16, these are what I used) Allen wrenchs Drill Needle nosed plyers Floor Jack (if you decide to remove the crossmember) Start by blocking off the tires and setting the parking break. The Jeep may need to be shifted into neutral during the install. Here are the parts in the Kit: Body side bracket, Transmission bracket, Shifter cable, and a bag containing 4 Allen head bolts, transfer case lever, ball joint of some type, and a clevis yoke. If you haven't already remove the front drive shaft. Use 8mm Socket or wrench to remove the bolts on the front diff yoke and 1/2 wrench for the transfer case yoke bolts. Removed was the body side linkage bracket. It is located on the driver's side of the transmission tunnel. I had the joy of removing bed liner from the bolts holding the body side bracket on. Its a PITA getting that stuff off. Use a 10mm wrench or socket to remove the bolts. After all the bolts are removed the bracket should fall off. I had to use a wrench to pry the linkage bracket from the shifter bushing. I then used a knife to remove the Bushing it self. Installing the new Novak body bracket did not go on as smoothly as I would have liked. I also needed a second person to put the bolts on while I held the bracket in place. Use an Allen Wrench (sorry not sure what size) to install the body mount. Not all the holes lined up properly, but it did not take much to fix the problem. Next I moved on to the Transfer case lever. Use a 9/16 wrench to remove it. There are some Differences between the stock lever and the Novak lever. As in Flint54's thread I later discovered I needed to add a new hole to the Novak lever. I used a drill bit the same size as the hole... Sorry I don't know what size it is. Before you copy my placement please read THIS thread by Flint54. But After I had everything together I guessed where it needed to be based on the placement of the clevis yoke... The new hole placement between My TC lever and Flint54's lever seem to be about the same. Reinstall the Transfer case lever using the 9/16 wrench or socket. These two bolts will need to be removed with a 9/16 wrench. (I did not have any of the AX-15 linkage brackets.) Place the bracket on the Transfer case studs and replace the bolts. I attached the Cable as instructed in Flint54's install thread. Note: My cable did not line up directly to the Handle lever and Transfer case lever. Both cables are adjusted by two 15/16 nuts. Like in Flint54's Install both cables are installed as to where the aft bolt just has full thread engagement. This picture shows the Transmission mount adjustment. This picture shows the body mount adjustment. Here are how the two ends attach to the handle and transfer case levers. Handle Lever Transfer case Lever Reattach front drive shaft... Now everything should be hooked up. Thus far the biggest difference between My install and Flint54's is the shift gate. I currently have the 231 gate on the truck, I have a 242 gate somewhere I just need to locate it.. I did not need to trim my shift gate as Flint54 did, I may however trim the rear of the gate to ensure complete engagement of 4LO. As is it shifts fine into all 5 positions. Novak did state in its instructions some shifter handles where bent slightly differently, the end result was the end angle lever attached to the Handle. This may be why I did not require trimming the gate and Flint54 did... After messing around with it more during the day i noticed while shifting the handle into 2wd I was bumping the console (circled in red). I may end up trimming the shift gate like Flint54 did during his install at the areas circled in yellow.