acfortier

I'm missing mine, bracket + T bolts + nuts. Can't seem to find the T bolts aftermarket. Let me know how much to 01606.

If it's just surface rust, I'd go for it

Yep! Seems to have been the issue. No random shut offs since.

Nice! I've got a NOS in my basement waiting for me to put it on. Trying to decide if it's one of those "final touches" after I do body work/paint/etc., but who knows how long that will be.

Curious to see how/if the Gladiator bumper fits with a hitch (bonus points if you have one of Krusty's hitches)

Nice! I feel like I'm seeing more and more YJs available for cheap around here. I guess they're just not holding their value like they used to.

Following up on convos from here: and here: I'm hoping I found the root cause of my random stalling issue. Just look at the difference in the sizes of the pins--the bottom way is the new one and is way tighter. Got it soldered on and did a wiggle test--no stalling. We shall see if it resolves the problem completely, or was just one part of the problem.

Wow, I think I figured it out. I had pulled on wires before, but I really got it to stall: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oBMERZFDGaNahknZ-v2yk5wv8ZUyANM8/view?usp=sharing Not sure if it's my solder seal connection or if the wire is just loose in the connector after all of these years. Ended up buying the Accel adapter pigtail, and will re-splice and see if that fixes my issue.

That's awesome! There's what I believe is a SX4 in my hometown that's been sitting in the same spot for as long as I can remember. I've always thought about seeing if I could find out who owns it. It's definitely lifted and looks pretty awesome. For now I'll settle for my wagon

Coil is less than a year old, Accel brand. Definitely not the coil--there's no voltage going into the coil, so the problem exists before it.

Makes sense. And this voltage should be present with the key in ON position? Are you suggesting I check voltage at another source from that same circuit? If there's no voltage anywhere else, is it a bad computer?

Tinkered around some more in this nice dry warm weather we're having in the northeast. Found two more dead mice in my trap bucket, so they're still lingering around somewhere. I know 100% they've built a nest in the blower, as it's loud AF. Decided I should take it out and blow it out. Didn't take too long, just had to remove everything in the way in the engine compartment. Remnants of a nest, go figure. Put it all back together and the blower is definitely still noisy--I can move the actual motor itself back and forth and the noise will get better or worse. It did seem like the wheel itself was rubbing on the housing. Aftermarket blower motor + blower motor wheel are available, although Rock Auto lists a distinction between Factory A/C and Dealer A/C--no idea which one I've got. Looking at the pictures, assuming they're accurate, I've got factory installed A/C. But, not really a priority now, and money is a bit tight, so I'll put that on the back burner. Noticed that the heater control valve was zip-tied up, making me believe that it's probably no good--I can actuate it, but it wants to stay "down"--which is the same direction when I blow into the nipple, so I'm assuming it's broken, hence why it was zip-tied to stay in the "up" (closed?) orientation. Will probably get a new one rather than delete it. Not sure if the gauges on my cluster worked, and figured out the 7.5A fuse was missing for it. Not sure where that got off to... And of course didn't have a spare at my parent's house. Will need to bring them with me next time. That's about all I had time for. Need to get the interior buttoned back up, run some radiator flush in it (currently, just water, and it's rusty) then fill it back up properly. Got an awful leak coming from the transmission, so something that we put back together isn't sealing properly. Hopefully it's nothing crazy.

Alright, this is baffling me and I'm getting to the point where I want to dump this thing off and have it not be my problem anymore I've had intermittent no start situations before, which would "go away" after a few minutes - few hours. This time, it hasn't come back, and it's been nearly a week. I've got no power to my ignition coil. I believe I should have voltage with the ignition ON on one of the wires, and while cranking the other wire should be pulsing. I get nothing on either with ignition ON or cranking the engine. Can someone confirm that voltage on one of the ignition coil inputs should be present when the key is in the ON position? I've ohm tested the CPS between B & C terminals, I get infinite resistance, which seems to be correct for an HO engine. Unclear which terminals I need to probe to see the AC voltage (or if that is even a valid test for an HO engine, seems it might be for Renix only?). After toying around with it some more, it finally started after sitting for over a week. The only things I truly did to it to make any difference were: Swapped Starter relay for ASD relay Unplugged ignition coil (input side, to test) and plugged it back in Unplugged CPS (to test) and plugged it back in And it fired up (albeit with an awful ticking noise, yay noisy lifters). Can anyone point me in the direction of what I should be testing next?

@cruiser54 does this tip apply for HOs as well?

The cargo light? Yes, it was an option

Finally got around to doing some more work to the Eagle. It's been neglected for most of the "nice weather" this summer (although it has rained quite a bit, lol). Battery was dead, had to charge it and poor a little gas in the carb, but it fired up and actually idled nicely. Ended up replacing the water pump with a NOS unit, and put on a new lower radiator hose, since the other just kept leaking the entire time. Got it all back together, and installed the fan + shroud. PO had it apart for some reason. Drove it around the block and was pleasantly surprised by how it ran. As if it hadn't been sitting for 3 months, lol.

Still trying to track this down, happened to me today, and it didn't come back. If I'm understanding this correctly, the DG/RD wire that comes from the alternator to the ignition coil should be battery voltage when the key is turned on? This supplies power to the coil, while the other GY wire is to tell the coil when to fire? It seems if I'm not getting any voltage on that DG/RD wire at the coil, so it still could be a suspect CPS, sync sensor, or circuit fault in ASD relay circuit? What would be the next steps to narrowing it down further? @Minuit tagging you because you gave some great information previously--hoping you have something else to help me

Yeah, it doesn't look great. I'll add that to the list of things to replace. Yup--that's exactly what I did, seems to be running just fine. I did check out Cruiser's tip for distributor indexing, but it was a bit more confusing to me than the FSM. I'm not sure about this step: "Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw." Is that more so you can move it around more than before? I did use the tip to find TDC from Cruiser, and that worked great.

Right--even rotating it another revolution, the tip of the rotor was still way off... weird.

Might be worth getting the battery tested at an auto parts store just to rule that out?

Hmm, OK. I understand the concept that the cylinder is a TDC twice since it's a 4 stroke, but I'm not sure how that helps me with this issue. If I rotate the balancer one revolution, I'm just an exact 180* from where the rotor was pointing in my picture, so still not near the #1 on the dist. cap. I took out the spark plug for #1 and put a screwdriver in. When the cylinder is at the top, the rotor is pointing in the correct position where I marked the dist. housing, but the timing mark on the balancer isn't close to 0. In fact, I can't even see it. Thing is true for another revolution around. So I'm guessing that the harmonic balancer "slipped"? I see in the PO's thread that he mentions that the harmonic balancer is on it's way out, so maybe that's what he was referring to? Anyways, I continued on, pulled the dist. out after making a few more marks, put on the new o-ring (was definitely leaking, the original gasket was still on the block, and a new one was on the housing, so essentially double-gasket-ed) and reinstalled based on my marks. Fired it up, and doesn't seem to be running and better or worse than it was, so I think I'm good?

OK, so I'm following the FSM procedure for taking the dist. out so I can replace the leaking gasket. I scribed a mark on the housing below the left side of the number one spark plug, like it says. I turned the engine so that the rotor was approaching the scribe mark, but I couldn't find the timing mark. I kept turning it clockwise until I did find it: I'm assuming that's it, with the mark and painted white around it. So, if I move that back to the 0 marking: This is where my rotor is: You can see the white mark on the housing... they're not even close. It's not clear if they're supposed to be? The next step is to align the trailing edge of the rotor blade with the scribe mark. Is it supposed to be moved that much? Pic from FSM for reference:

Yeah, if you're pushing 230* I would probably start elsewhere than the cap. Replacing the radiator, if original, probably makes the most sense.

150 is definitely way too low--might want to double-check that. My '91 seems to run about 210*, default thermostat is a 195*, so somewhere in that range seems to be correct for our Jeeps. I had assumed all 4.0 MJs came with an e-fan, even the Renix ones? Or was that part of the "heavy duty cooling" option?

I did this, used a couple of solder seal wire connectors to get it done. It was a PITA, since you don't have much wire to work with if you don't want to unclip the harness to get better access to it. Moved mine to the firewall: