Chico

Thanks for the replies guys. Where did you buy the Right Stuff, and does anybody know if Autozone carries it?

So I have all the bolts out for the water pump and power steering pump. I know they all came out with 13,14, and 15mm sockets but how do you guys want me to measure them (meaning like with a tape measure from where to where.) And do you want me to count the threads?

I've read all the threads on here and checked Alldata and I'm getting differnt answers. Should I put RTV on the water pump gasket when I install it or put it on there dry and clean?

Nice option, but not that deep at the moment :eek:

Yep, Jasper's the company that wants $2600.

You know now that I have the front clip off and I'm having so many problems with the cooling issue I was thinking of going a differnt route. I have an 88 4.0 in there now. If I keep all the renix stuff and externals, up to what year Cherokee can I pull an engine out of to replace my 220,000 mile one. Obviously the newer the better with lower mileage because it makes no sense to do it with a 1990 that already has 150,000 miles plus. Would I be able to use a realatively new one that's maybe been in an accident (side or rear hit)? Is this a viable option or should I just buy a reman one for $2600 and save myself a lot of headaches?

Pulled the old rad with LEAD NOT FOLLOW"S post. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7695 Put the new one in but I'm still running warm. Bought a new waterpump from Autozone for $35.00. Make sure you buy the one that says reverse rotation. I also got a bottle of Prestone cooling system flush. I'm supposed to run it thru the system with just water and that for 3-6 hours of operation. This is supposed to loosen up any build-up and rust in my block from years of neglect. When I drained my 50/50 mix last night again to add this all of it came out clean with just a few specs of crap in it. We'll see how it goes. Hopefully I'll get it all buttoned up this weekend, but it's getting kind of hard doing it outside at night with a flashlight in between my teeth and under occasional thunderstorms. I envy everyone on here with a well lit garage :D

Rich, here's LEAD"S post http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7695 Oh and make sure your waterpump is reverse rotation and is stamped with an R on the back. The moron at Autozone tried to sell me a differnt one.

Rich, I followed LEAD NOT FOLLOW"S DIY post on changing from a closed to open system. He goes step by step on how to remove your rad. It only took about 15 minutes to get the whole front clip off his way and makes working in there really easy. Great detailed write-up with pics. Anyway keep us updated and good luck :cheers:

Rich, I changed the rad and meade sure all the air was out of the system and I'm still running warm. Since you have the header off and rad out it's really easy to get to it. I just bought one for $35.00 so while you're in there, why not. I also drained all the 50/50 mix again and added Prestone's flush crap that's supposed to clean out a lot of the build-up and rust in the block. Only thing that sucks is I'm supposed to run it thru there for 3-6 hours and drain it out again and replace the 50/50 mix. But since I'm changing out the waterpump to see if it helps I said sure ok.

Rich, did you change the waterpump yet?

It;s possibly your IAC if it's not the TPS. It was my IAC on a manual VW. Run a search here for TPS and you'll find posts that link you to how to adjust your TPS correctly.

Jt. the cap on my expansion tank is a regular rad cap, says 16 lbs vented. The whole point of this set-up was to turn it into an open system without changing the rad style. I just checked it again. The coolant level in the plastic tank was noticeably lower so the the system is still sucking coolant in. That and a lot less bubbles came out of the second tank. However it's still not running at 210*. I'm goin to give it another cycle and try it again tommorow morning. The temp is ten degrees cooler at the thermo housing down to 210*. Of course the outside temp dropped 20* and it's raining. I also don't have the fan shroud on the mechanical fan yet or the electric fan hooked up yet. Would running that electrical fan nonstop on a switch really lower my temp a good amount by drawing air threw the driver's side of the rad.

I really like those seats. Did you say they're $600 dollars :eek:

Listen guys, I'm not crazy. Way back umpteen posts ago the discussion came up over whether to turn a closed loop system into an open loop system was better. Eagle has the same set-up as does Pike. Even BLHTAZ chimed in and said having to do it again he'd run with Eagle's set-up so not to have to mess around with the fan temp switch bung in the rad the the open system did not have because it was in the thermostat housing. Eagle used a Moroso metal tank. I bought the same one but realized it was easier to do it PIKE's way becuase the MOROSO tank required some modification to get it to mount. The MAC tank looks just like the original plastic one but is metal. Mounts the same way, hence my decision to buy it. Eagle said, fill it to the top, instead of halfway like the plastic tank and run a line from the top fitting to a second plastic tank to basically turn the closed system into an open system. Am I making sense or did I get it wrong? EAGLE and PIKE, please chime in here.

That's strange because mine's filled to the top. Once it heats up and expands it flows to the second overflow bottle. Once it cools down it gets sucked back into the system. Maybe I'm wrong but I thought that's what it was designed to do. Pike where you at?I have the exact same settup as yours so what does yours do?

Jt, you mean because of a headgasket leak? There is no oil in my coolant and no coolant in my oil. I just checked for exhaust fumes in my coolant a couple of weeks ago with a block tester from NAPA. Fluid came out good to go so unless the head gasket blew today I don't think so.

Nope, that's a flux-capacitor, it works on nuclear fission, and really doesn't kick in until ya hit 88 MPH. On a side note, that junkyard has some nice people working for it. They treated me real well when I called.

Which one of you guys is bleeding the brakes?

Rich that line that he told you to run to the floor is running to an overflow bottle on mine by the airfilter. I think there's still air in the system like Pete said. I went and checked it after a 4 hour cool down. The level in the second bottle was a little lower but the big story is that when I turned on the engine air bubbles started coming out of the second tank. I let it heat up again past 220* and it was still bubbling so I guess there is still air in there. I'll let it cool down and run it again. Hopefully it fixes itself like Wahoo's did.

Yeah I'm sorry Wahoo. The title is confusing. It's officially an open system now. I'm just running a radiator with no filler neck and at the time I typed the title I was just trying to get coolant in the whole system. I'm gonna drive home and check to see if the system sucked up anymore coolant.

I'm pessimistic about the idea. I've done it at least ten times before with absolutely no change in my temp. But for the sake of argument I'll pull that sensor again tonight after it cools down. BLHTAZ says he's done it with the engine off instead of on. I've tried it both ways. Anybody think it won't work if the trucks not running?

Rich, I put my new rad in. No change in temp. It's still running hot.

Got it filled. I'm still running hot. I no longer have a closed system because I added the metal tank instead of the plastic bottle and added an overflow bottle. I'm out of ideas to get this engine to run cooler.

Guys, I put my new rad in and filled the metal expansion tank thinking it would fill the rad and block up. Turned the truck on and it didn't work out as planned. In two minutes my temp gauge flew into the red zone and pegged itself there. Where did I screw up. Should I fill the rad up first thru the upper rad hose first? Anything else I should do to make this go easier and correctly?