Boots

Has any one tried this one? http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xtras_1079.html It has a drop bracket and a different joint on the end. Might be able to get them to upgrade me to that one. Or should I just forget about Rough Country all together? Thanks Chad

I'm going to call them tomorrow. But I've done some research and found that this is a pretty common issue and that Rough Country will just keep sending you the same joint. Was definitely planning on calling them though. Thanks Chad

I put on a Rough Country 4.5" lift about three weeks ago. I got the adjustable track bar to go with it, but the joint on the uni-body side is already worn out and making noise. :fs1: I can feel it move if I have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth. My question is, should I buy a whole new track bar or can I get a better joint that fits on the end that won't wear out so fast. Thanks Chad

It should come on with the AC and when the engine reaches a certain temp. There should be a switch thing in the radiator.

http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=2720&MakeId=14&ModelId=249 This is the one I have, just stuffed it in and trimmed the edges. You also have to cut holes for the shifters and seat bolts. I think what Motion means is that you gotta make sure that you don't cut your holes too big, and make sure it's in the right spot before you cut. I cut on of mine too big but was able to glue a piece back in pretty easy. Other than that, you shouldn't need any adhesives. At least I didn't. Oh, and they will send you free samples of the different colors if you want. Thanks Chad

:agree: This. Why pump more of the crappy old stuff through the system? Siphone the old gunk out of the reservoir, refill with new joy juice, and save a lot of bleeding. But I can't take it all out right? Because I'm not supposed to let it go dry, right? :dunce:

I would appreciate that. :D

So I just keep bleeding and bleeding and bleeding until the fluid looks new? So DON'T drain all the fluid then fill it up right? :hmm: thanks Chad

Are you ever supposed to drain all of the brake fluid? I'm going to be installing new extended brake lines tomorrow and was just wondering. I know how to bleed the brakes and that there is a special procedure on the comanches, but I've never heard of any one draining all of the fluid. If you are supposed to, how do you do it? thanks :wrench: Chad

it's not Rough Country's fault that my old leafs where sagging before I got the kit. It is their fault that they sell the wrong add a leaf with the kit though. On mine the add a leaf did absolutely nothing. It had less arch that my other leafs, how is that supposed to work? It's gotta be for a cherokee or something.

:agree: I found my bumper in my local junk yard.

When I got my rear bumper it had a bend in it, I used my log spliter to straighten it. Worked quite well. Not sure if it would work with yours or not...

A few of you guys have shown some interest in my Hi-Lift mount so I figured I would do a write up. I didn't take pictures while I was actually building it but this should still be pretty useful. Since we all like pictures, this what my finished product looks like... The measurements... Front Top Side All measurements are in inches The square tubing is 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 and the bar stock is 1 x 1/8. Except for the piece that goes against the jack, it's 1 1/4 x 1/8 because it fits right in the groove on the side of the jack. There are three 3/8 (I think) bolts going into the fender and two 3/8 (I think) bolts going into the side of the bed. They both have backing plates with nuts welded on them. I didn't include measurements of them because they are just 1 x 1/8 bar stock with holes in them, pretty self explanatory. I just kinda built the bracket from the bottom up. It wasn't really in a specific order or any thing. I found it easiest to weld on the part that goes along the jack last though. Does that make any sense? When drilling the holes... There are two layers of metal were the bottom three bolts go. There is a gap in between them. The best way I found to drill the holes was to mark them on top and drill a small pilot hole from the top, Then drill the actual size you want from the bottom. Obviously removing tire or jacking it up so tire droops down. You may need to compensate depending on how strait your pilot hole was when you drill the actual hole. The top holes are easy, just bolt the bracket on with the bottom bolts and drill through the bed side. Getting the backing plate on the top bolts is NOT easy, it will require two people and one should have long and flexible arms. I had to tie a string to a washer and stick the string through the backing plate and hole in the bed side to pull the backing plate up in there. I tied it to the washer so I could cut the string and let the washer fall down out of the way. After it was pulled up in there my dad held the string and threaded in the bolt while I reached up under the bed and pushed the backing plate into place with the very tips of my fingers. After one side is snugly bolted on, you can reach up the other side and push the backing plate into place and bolt that side on. Now pray that you never have to take it off again. LOL I'm gonna put up some more pictures of the actual bracket in the next few days to help you guys see what the measurements are exactly. Let me know if I left out any measurements... I don't know if this works with other brands of jacks, but I don't see why not. Thanks Chad

I would try taking the IAC out of the throttle body and cleaning it and the hole it goes into. Mine used to idle high, not that high, but I found that the IAC was getting stuck. :wrench:

I run a sway bar because I'm 16... Enough said? LOL. :rotf: The currie anti-rock just looks like a really expensive sway bar.

You can't put a spacer in the rear...

I got the adjustable track bar when I got the kit, and just ordered brake lines and sway bar disconnects today. The sway bar relocation brackets the kit comes with are a joke, I can't even put my skid plate back on. I'm not going to bump up the lift for a while and I plan on eventually going to drop brackets or long arms.

I also did the Rough Country lift a few weeks ago, and mine sits considerably higher in the front. From what I can tell, the Add a Leaf did absolutely nothing to the rear. So really all I got was what ever the shackle gave me. My dad, who originally ordered the kit, called them and got them to send us free perches to do a spring over in the back. Then i can remove the add a leaf/shackle and level it with a spacer in the front. OH, and my front coils don't seem to have sagged down at all.

Gonna need some more info in order to help ya. What motor, trans, year......

Thanks ParadiseMJ. What else would I want to do while it's apart? The motor is going to need to be rebuilt in the somewhat near future.... Thanks

It appears that I have oil leaking from the crank. What all is involved in replacing the seal? Do i have to pull the timing cover? Any help is appreciated. Thanks :wrench:

I believe you have to pull out the carpet to put it on. There should be little dimple things were the screws go. I haven't personally done it though... :wrench:

:agree:

If your just posting to say you would like a jack mount, please pm me instead, I don't want to clutter up the thread. I'm still not going to sell them as of right now, but that could change if there are a ton of people that want them and I have some extra time. Thanks

I don't think it would be all that practical for me to start selling them. I'm only 16 and school just started again so that keeps me pretty buisy, along with the MJ. If enough people really wanted me to make them I would think about it, but I don't think that many people would actually want them. I'm more than willing to share measurements and what not with everyone though. Pic of the lock, Just cause: Image Not Found Thanks for the interest