RDAN1

Question about this. I have a fuel pump/sending unit assembly from a 91 mj HO I picked up a while back to keep as a "spare". Don't know if it was working (supposedly per the po it has a new fuel pump in it but?) or what size tank it was from. Will this 91 unit work in my 88 swb 4.0 if I swap the fuel gauge sending unit for the renix one that's in the tank now and working ?

Thanks very much for this tip. This AM I used a small bottle jack set up like shown in this photo to align the bolt holes on a lower control arm and it worked like a charm!... :banana:

I'm trying to replace the LCA on the pass side of my 88 4.0 now and am also having trouble getting the bolt holes to line up..almost perfect but slightly twisted so the second bolt won't go all the way thru to bolt up..tried the ratchet strap method and it's very close but still not there/done... should the bushing be trimmed somehow ? the FSM doesn't mention it I don't think but if I should trim then, can someone explain what needs to be done/how? Thanks

Since I'm planning to be doing this work soon, I'm curious if you were able to get the alignment issue figured out ? If so, how/what did you end up doing?

I'm going to edit this to ask: Does anyone with the FSM handy know the OEM Chrysler # for the axle seal installer tool? I have a friend in the biz who might be able to get me one. Thanks! Tom I'm not sure this is the one you're looking for but the FSM under "Front Axle" lists tool #J-34659 as "Axle Tube Bearing and Seal Removal/Installer" :dunno:

Welcome to the craziness and Yes many sheet metal and trim parts from the doors forward are the same as a pre 97 4 door Cherokees. Also most/many mechanical and electrical parts (depending on the year and engine/tranny) are identical as well. As you have questions about specifics, do a search on this site and usually you can find some threads about what you're needing to know. I believe the front bumpers from the early Cherokees (before 96) will work on your year but someone else here should verify that as I haven't swapped one out myself.

Since the bushing are in several MM sizes, the best method may be to measure the sway bar with digital calipers. That's what I did and I got the correct size bushings with no problems.

Before you tackle the rear main seal, you might replace the valve cover gasket with a good one, if you haven't done so already. A leak in the valve cover can be confused sometimes with a leak of the rear main as the oil runs down the back of the block. Good luck!

FYI also, I found that taking the motor mount "ear" off the passenger side helps when removing engine, tranny and transfer case together.

:agree: If you pull the radiator/condenser out, both engine and tranny will come out together fairly easily and then you can take the 2 apart much more easily.

I like the guys at this dealership in KS. They give a discount from OEM list price, are very helpful, and are also prompt getting the items shipped. https://www.jeeppartsdept.com/jeep-comanche-parts.html I'm sure others are good too but I've had good luck with them.

The label that Gjeep had printed from my label turned out perfect. Perhaps if you sent him a pm, he might help you with a copy.

Bump. Does anyone have either of these items ??? Thanks I do, but it will be one to two weeks before I can pull the exhaust manifold. The alternator bracket I could pull tomorrow night. I will let you know how that goes since the steel bolts like to break off inside the aluminum bracket. OK Thanks. Keep me in mind for both items..a couple of weeks is OK too as I'm interested in getting good parts ...

Bump. Does anyone have either of these items ??? Thanks

Pictures really help. That part (53006196 for an 89 4.0) isn't listed as available thru mopar. Perhaps someone has an idea where to get one other than a jy..another member perhaps? Good Luck.

I think the part/hose assembly you need for a 4.0 engine is 53004589. It runs from the MAP sensor to the side of the throttle body. If that's it, it's still available at the stealership for about $20 or so.

Biggest issues in the C101 is the sensor ground and CPS circuits. I do the sensor ground mod and then bypass the C101 with the CPS wires, clean the C101, tweak the connectors and call it good. Good time to do both actually. The ground refreshing and upgrade, even with only the two cables recommended in my write-up are worthwhile. Even better, but not totally necessary is increasing the size of the pos and neg cables. I agree with soldering and heat shrink vs crimping. That's all I ever consider really. But is there any "value added" benefit to taking the 101 out providing it's been really cleaned and the sensor grounds fix has been done? It sounds like perhaps it would only clean up the look under the hood some but not really offer any other benefit. ???? :dunno:

Recently on this forum there was a lot of discussion involving 1. cleaning the 101 connector and 2. bypassing it for the sensor grounds. Since it's a problem area for 87-88 MJ/XJ owners, I'm curious of the pros and cons of just going ahead and taking it out completely and tying the wires together, either by soldering each one or using a quality waterproof crimping method. I'm planning on doing the sensor ground update that cruiser54 outlined of tying the 6 sensor lines together and while I'm at it, considering doing the rest of the wires and taking the connector out but would like some input about it before I do it. I've found some info on other forums about taking it out but not much detail. All help and ideas welcomed, both pro and con..Thanks

I need a good exhaust manifold for my 88 4.0 MJ. No welds or cracks (that's what I have....) Also need an alternator bracket.... (part number 53002894) is stamped on the bracket.. Shipped to 63357 Thanks

The only reference i can find to that method was by mj Mike a few months ago.. He made a bracket to put on the HO rail on a renix intake but it leaked and he recommended not doing it but replacing the intake, etc with an HO intake. I'd rather not do that if possible as it would require other mods also. Earls makes tube adapters that would connect to the front line before the pressure regulator but I'm not sure those adapters would be able to connect on the return line fitting on the fuel rail ???? :dunno:

Has anyone replaced the fuel lines on a renix 4.0 with -AN lines?. If so how?..I've found some really good info on the forum for HO lines but nothing for renix. Any leads/info appreciated. Thanks

Can someone verify if this procedure for the CPS connector mod is correct? Thanks http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... update.pdf

I do have a knock sensor so I just taped the loose bare wire back against the foil insulation. While I had it open, I also cut out/removed and sealed up the ends of the 3 wires going to the transmission tps plug since I have a manual and it's not used/needed. Thanks to everyone for their input.

I had similar issues with mine. Try searching the site for "dome lights" and "pillar lights" and you might find info to help determine the problem. The old lights are sensitive and need to be babied to work well. Good Luck!

OK I traced it back from the cps and the white with black stripe goes to 101 and the purple with white stripe goes to 116. ? I also found the splices cruiser54 mentioned and can deal with those splices before I reassemble . So back to the original question : Can I just tape the bare wire back against the foil tape and move on? also since I have a manual, can I terminate and seal the wires going to the tps auto trans connector 259?..doing away with that connector would clean up the harness some..??