RDAN1

I'm having a problem/issue disconnecting the rear brake hose line from the incoming brake line. The rubber line was cracked and I decided it was time to replace it. I disconnected the hose line from the axle lines fine but the incoming line connection to the hose just won't budge. I put a couple of applications of PB blaster on the connection and retried. Still not moving.. then I cut the end off the old rubber line so I could put a box end wrench on that fitting thinking that would help but it's still tight as can be. What's the best way to deal with this? Can I heat the hose connection fitting to see if that will help or not? :dunno: or any other suggestions/ideas to get it to turn loose without breaking the incoming line.. All help/advice appreciated. Thanks..

If this is for your '88, maybe the 88 Electrical Service Manual would help you out. I think it's available somewhere on the forum, if not, I have a copy and could email it to you. If your question involves a later model MJ, maybe someone on here has the later editions.

I don't understand this posting. You asked for alternatives to regular hood insulation and hoodliners is one. Several weeks ago I asked for more info about this product. The guy who makes them responded he would supply the Jeep logo decal or would do a custom decal if he was sent a jpeg file.

Here's one that looks very good and he can put a JEEP decal logo on it. http://hoodliners.blogspot.com/

I purchased a set from http://www.jeepwhitegauges.com/ but I have not yet installed them. Quality seems good for them however.

Got it!..Thanks for the info and the help.. :cheers:

OK I'll drain it. Any ideas what's good to seal off the shifter hole? Thanks for the help.

Just got an AX15 from a 91 MJ and can't install it for a while. To store it in my garage, can I stand it up on the bell housing? Should I drain it first or is that not necessary ? :dunno: It'll be after the first of the year before I can install it..

Very Nice. Did you do the work yourself or have it done?. about how much time/material was involved ? any particular reason for using a caddy fuse panel? That move should definitely solve the clutch leak problem..good work!

Question/Clarification: Where is the XJ "proportioning valve" located? is it connected to the XJ Booster/Master Cylinder ? Or? A friend has a 96 XJ he's parting out and I'd like to get all the necessary parts/items from him to do this upgrade and also eliminate my rear MJ Proportioning valve as it no longer appears to work.

Thanks for the info. I'd really like to find someone locally to refinish them but so far the only company I've found here is the one that quoted me $175 each exchange. I'm going to try a few more body shops (I tried one already and they use that company) and see if they have any other recommendations or maybe can get a better price. My wheels are in good physical condition, just need refinishing as the clear coat is peeling off.

I need a couple of rebuilt/refinished alloy wheels and the only outlet here I can find wants $175 each exchange. :( Has anyone bought from this company ? http://www.rims-and-wheels.com/jeep-com ... 12u10.html Or have recommendations or other companies to try? Thanks

Question: Whose/what LED bulbs did you use?..there seems to be a lot of choices for these bulbs out there and yours look very nice with the white gauge faces.

Do you remember which paint brand you used?

Does anyone know the paint code number or paint color to repaint an 88 factory rear bumper?..is it matte finish black or ?? all help greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Is it possible to buy a new radiator with a spot to mount the existing aux fan sensor? or to add one to an XJ radiator at a local radiator shop ? ?

I need a gas tank skid plate (Part Number 52002810) for an 88 SWB MJ. Also Driver's side taillight assembly. Both shipped to 63357. Thanks

Exacerly. I replaced the power robbing mechanical fan with a 10-blade 97+ XJ electric fan. This fan is now my primary cooling fan and is set to come on at 195* LO speed, then 215* HI speed by an external controller. 99% of the time it runs at LO speed, or not at all in cold weather. IF environmental/hot/stuck-in-traffic conditions warrant additional cooling, then the stock E-fan then kicks in at about 220*, or when I use the A/C. It's a good setup and works better than the original mechanical + one E-fan setup. :cheers: This setup sounds very good. Questions: What controls the 10 blade electric fan? also, can this setup be used with a closed system on an 88 4.0 ? if so what other mods would be required?

I'm not sure..the outside measurements of these according to the manufacturer is 4.0w X 1.75h inches...

IMO Quality is very good plus. I bought a pair to install and feel they are very well made. Also there are a couple of threads on here of folks using them and the steps to install them. They are also sold by this company. http://www.infiniteinnovations.com/main.asp?p=4_179 which is where i bought them for 8.65 each. they have a minimum order charge but if you find other lighting on their site you need, they may be cheaper than the e bay source.

:thumbsup: Thanks

Thanks for the thread link and the info in it..I like the method you used for the city lights and plan to follow it on my upgrade to H4's (along with an upgraded harness and relays). Can you share a wiring diagram of how to tie the city lights to the parking lights ?? Again Thanks..!

There's been a lot of activity/opinions on upgrading headlights and how best do it but has anyone tried the "city lights" option when they upgraded?..If so, what's the verdict on them? waste of time or worth it ???

Thanks for the thread on this. I went back thru them trying to find info on this subject but missed this one. So, If I get a 97+ aluminum aftermarket cover (like the ones for $89.99 in the weblink above) plus the correct gasket and grommet fittings, and follow the thread instructions/comments I should be OK. Again Thanks. This will be my project for the first week on the New Year!