hgeranium

Well at the very least they don't need to do anything with the assembly itself. All that works great. It's just the lock ring and probably a new o-ring. We'll see what happens though. Ideally it should just be: lock ring off, new o ring on, mount assembly, then new lock ring on.

Update: truck runs good but I realized the lock ring was not fully secure after $30 worth of gas got dumped on the ground. I’m going to end up having to take it in somewhere because I cannot get it seated properly. I think the grooves on the tank have been dinged up by previous owners doing work or something. At least I did all the hard work, but I bet that shop will still charge for full labor for a fuel pump on a 2 minute job with the right tools

Not the roof!

Goodness. The job is finally all said and done and the Jeep runs great (so far). I took it for about a 15 minute spirited highway drive with no signs of issues. Fuel pressure is also perfectly pinned at 31 at idle and 39 without the FPR. The worst part of that was having to redo the job three times because by the time I got the lock ring back on, one of those quick connectors for the pump slid off (likely due to vibrations from getting the lock ring on) and the fuel pump had no power. So I went through the same song and dance until I finally got so good at it that I pulled it out and reinstalled it in like 15 minutes and got everything buttoned up with no problems. like my previous post, the fuel and the tank is pretty clean and the pump was just missing a strainer. The old fuel filter also still looked good, it was pure clear gasoline that came out with no particles. I bet it was just a matter of the pump that the previous owner put in failing. And thank you to those who helped guide me through this, I don’t think I would’ve had the confidence to do it without you.

I may have found the issue. Pump was replaced like I thought, but PO did not install a strainer at all on the fuel pump. Fuel tank on the inside honestly looks great. I wouldn’t be surprised if it was replaced at some point. I’m thinking the pump is good but my filter is getting clogged. Still good to put in the new Bosch, strainer, and a new wiz fuel filter. Taking out the pump was easier than I expected. I didn’t need to remove the driveshaft either which is nice.

2 questions: Anyone know why there would two identical connectors for the washer pump right next to each other? They both go into the harness. Plugging my new pump into both does nothing when testing. I don’t hear the pump run at all. Second, does anyone have a picture of the order for how the washer components need to come together? Does the filter need to screw into the washer pump from inside the tank? It makes sense but I have no idea how to achieve that 1. Washer tank 2. Washer pump 3. Filter 4. Bracket with grommet

If I had the time and money I would. I had to do a 3 hour drive last night to fix the truck and drive it back home today because I have classes tomorrow. Once MTS comes out with the new hanger assembly, it was already my intention to put in a new tank at the same time. I’m sure there’s plenty of varnish at the bottom already. But yeah once I do something like that I’ll never have to worry about it for the life of the truck. At the very least I’ll be dosing it with a proper fuel treatment with my first fill up to hopefully clear any gunk out of the lines.

Just got back into town. Just checked it on first cold start and I’m getting ~28psi and then ~35psi with the vacuum line off the FPR. Just posting an update. I’m getting to work on it first thing in the morning so I can’t do a warm pressure test but I think that’s low enough to more or less confirm that the fuel pump is at least partially the cause, but most likely the full culprit. I’m also thinking my strainer has clogged/disintegrated and is blocking the lines and clogging my filter. That would explain why my filter catastrophically failed a few months ago and the new one may be getting clogged again. Would also explain my huge increase in MPG for a few weeks after replacing my fuel filter only for it to go back down I can hear the fuel pump priming but with the pressure numbers I’m sure it’s just weak and gets weaker with heat.

The fact that AMC decided on using litre instead of liter on the 2.5 and 4.0 badge is so amusing

Agree. I think Eagle_SX4 was the one to tell me the same thing. Really not that much more expensive than the OEM style too.

Sunroof!

Good luck on the sale and good luck on raising your college funds! Hopefully it goes to another good home.

Thank you guys! Good to know this is a common thing with the weird wonky dipstick tube shape. I appreciate the glowing reviews on my drawing! It was all done with my finger on my phone lol.

My dipstick when pulled, wiped, and pulled again always has this weird line of oil extending far past the actual oil level. Please excuse my crude drawings. I’m not with the Comanche until Sunday. Sometimes it’s more or less obvious than others but it’s still annoying to try to find where the actual level is, and I’m worried it may not be fully accurate. Also, the backside of the stick reads at a completely different level. About a quart lower than the side with lines. I worry that if I put in the dipstick the opposite direction, then that quart low reading will apply to the side I’d be reading and overfill it by a quart. Two questions: 1. How can I remedy the extraneous oil above the actual level reading? I’ve never had this issue with any of my other cars. Again, it’s not too bad at times but sometimes it’s near impossible to see where the oil level actually is. 2. Should I be worried about the inconsistent reading between the front and the back? Or should I just always put in the dipstick right side up and don’t worry about the backside? I want to make sure my readings are accurate because I’m dealing with some crankcase pressure issues and blow-by so it would be nice to have a more confident time trying to check the levels. Maybe the blow-by is what’s causing this? Enjoy my 2nd drawing of the back that I no longer have a use for.

All those header trim pieces look to be in great shape. I wish I was closer by to get ahold of that bumper and the caps.

What a strange thread I have stumbled upon

I doubt many Comanche owners were listening to Phish but it’s always fun to listen to period correct music. Junta (1989)

Your immaculate drawing will surely stand the test of time as a guide for all things manifold bolts

IIRC you can use a spray bottle of water which will lower the idle instead of raise it when checking around the manifold. That may be a little safer (and cheaper) using on a hot engine compared to brake cleaner. those bottom manifold bolts are a pain. I’ve been told that you can get them from the top by removing the airbox but it’s not worth fumbling blindly. I just take the airbox off and get them from under the truck. You’ve got plenty of room. Also make sure you actually have all the bolts. I’ve heard of people who were missing bolts or studs entirely.

Go dawgs!!!

All good on brake fluid?? If it’s making a noise then there’s definitely something off but if it doesn’t affect engine performance then you’re most likely good on vacuum. If you have a second person, you can get them to pump the brakes with the truck on and hit all around the vacuum port and around the booster itself with brake cleaner to make sure it’s not leaking. The difference between a 97+ and pre-97 booster is out of my wheelhouse so hopefully someone else chimes in on if there would be any problems retrofitting (assuming it’s not the exact same part). However, the fact that the issue seems to be exacerbated by heat leads me to argue that the exhaust manifold bolts or gasket are a likely contributor. It makes sense that heat expansion on the manifold surface and gasket could create an intermittent leak if the gasket isn’t all the way sealed. I have the same issue. Starts and idles great on cold starts but I frequently have trouble after it warms up.