89MJComanche

Is that one of those mud Warrantys that covers mud up to 22 inches deep... and the Alternator is at 25 inches of the ground?? Never heard of such a Warranty?? Care to shine some light on it.

I don't know why everyone makes this so difficult. First of all, you absoloutly don't want the new wiring, computers etc. The only benifit is that the newer motors have no distributor, instead a coil pack, which if sealed properly, means that your motor would run in deeper water. As for the newer motors, just use the long block, with head, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold.. I'd keep all the old wiring, and ignition, and all that other stuff. My 1995 XJ with 265" tires and 355 gears (AX15 equipped) gets 19MPG and has tons and tons of power. That includes at least 500lbs of armor and extra weight. My 2005 LJ Rubicon with 265's and 4.10's, lacks power, gets horrible gas mileage, and is equipped nearly the same as the 1995 XJ. Other newer Jeeps that I have owned and driven are exactly the same way. The older stuff, 1995, and 1999 in particular, are way better than any of the crapola they put on there for emissions in the past 7 years. Take the 1999 manifold, and put it on a 1995 engine, and you should have a real power house. I do have a gale banks Torqe Tube on the 1995 and I wonder how much that affects it performance, but never the less the 2005 will be getting hopped up with exhaust and intake as soon as the Warranty runs out.

First person who says that they bring the girl friend along because she has big mud flaps is the winner!! I always wanted to open a bar called MUDFLAPS We would have BBW's working there dressed in the same outfits as HOOTERS!!

Fawk!! I'm jealous!! Tube bender and Welder were on my list!! Did not get either one!! I must have been a bad boy last year!!

Totally a Red Neck set of X-MAS presents!!

I want to get Spencer at JEEPSTICKER.COM to make us lower door decals that say Comanche in the font that was used on 1999 XJ SE's on the door. I need a straight on photo of the decal on the door to send him or a tracing would even be better. I don't want a photo of the raised cladding. 1998, and 1999 SE's both had "Cherokee" on the door in decal form! Anyone help??

It comes in regula paint cans. They package 1/2 gallon of the resin in 1 gallon can, and the activator comes in a plastic jug. You mix the 2 together at a 50/50 ratio and then apply it. The make application equipment for this material but it does not work well. It is best to apply it with those disposable foam paint brushes. It drys pretty smooth, and if you sprinkle the flakes on it, then it really looks good. I have to get updated prices on the product as I have not orderd any in six months. It comes in about 25 colors, and there are about 5 or 6 different chip colors. I am going to do the floor of my MJ with the product as soon as the weather breaks. After that time, I'll post update price info and photos of the job.

I own Vortex Brand spray on truck bedliner equipment. My vendor sells a product called granitex. It is a 2 part finish, that can be sprinkled with paint chips for good looks, and a friction additive can be added to eliminate slippage of your feet. It is a really great product, and since it is 2 parts the chemical reaction forces 99.999% of the moisture off of surface when you apply it. I put the coating in the floor of my buddy's XJ after he had several patches welded in. I did herculiner in my 1995 XJ. Biggest mistake in the world!! I think that it actually caused places to rust out faster by trapping moisture. Stuff Sucks in my opinion. It has been in my Jeep for 6 years. I am going to replace the drivers side rear floor board (above converter) and when I have the interior torn apart, I am going to strip the entire floor of the herculiner and re-coat it with POR 15 and Granitex. Anyhow... Good luck with the rest of your project. AARON

I never thught that we would actually see this conversion avaliable. AEV has not had the best track record to produce and sell the stuff that they advertise XJ rear Bumper is my example. I'm very interested in puchase of this conversion kit, however from what I am reading, it does not sound very complete to me. I am going to question fender flares, assorted hardware bags needed to easily install everything from tail lights, to wiring harness clips to secure the harness, the lack of supplying the rocker guards to finish the edge of the sheet metal in a clean fashon, proper roll cage components to finish the inside of the cab with a cage, matching fender flares for the front, a rear bumper that is designed perfectly for the bed body and rear of the frame, and the list of proper add ons for the kit that should be purchased seperatly. For example, what coil springs, control arms, shocks, skid plates, etc etc, fit the bill for 1, 2, or 3 recommended setups that would give mild and extreme setups. Obviosuly 90% of these that are ever built by people are going to be built with 6 CYL engines, most likely on D30-D44 equipped 6 Cyl Wranglers with 3.73 factory gears. I'd like to have one that had 265x16" tires, and selectable lockers, with about 2.5" of lift over stock, OBA, Sprayed in liner, Preferable 4:10 or 4:56 gears (a used Rubi would be the best candidate) ARB front bumper with Winch, and a Tummy Tuck skid plate. I don't have a problem paying top dollar for something. I have a problem with paying top dollar for great stuff that is only 75% of the project, and being left to fabricate, or purchase other products that need modified to fit properly and look and function right. I bought an LOD rear bumper tire carrier for my LJ Rubi. Great product, but it does not fit right, and I was left to fix the problem my self, re-paint, and that was after I buggerd up the corner of my tailgate with damage from it hitting the hinge on the swing out. POOR FITMENT in my opinion that if I was made aware of up front I could have taken care of. I hate the live and learn concept. How about learning me first so that I can live with better results in the end.

When you get around to it... and you get a better camera, take some better photos. Your rear bumper looks good!! I'd like to see it better along with what ever else that you can post.

WAIT!! don't USE HRECULINER!! IT WILL HIDE THE RUST THAT WILL COME BACK, EVEN WITH THE POR15. YOU ARE BETTER OFF NOT TO COAT THE FLOOR AND JUST LET THE POR15 BE. You could mix some friction additive into the POR15 like sand and coat with that. There are places that you could not get paint like under that tin piece that covers that frame rail. That will rust from the inside out and with Herculiner covering the POR15 you won't know till it is too late.!!

Some one on here the other day had the photos posted and now I can't find them?? The 1987 with 50K that I bought now has a nice big hole in the side thanks to the power washer. OOPS! It was inevitable because there was rust up in there. I am going to cut out 2 square windows inside of the bed and put covers over them that are sprayed with my spray on bedliner product so that it will look real ince. That way I will be able to get to the upper back side of the fender wells to clean it out and POR15 it, or use that orange stuff that the guy who painted his frame rails used. Anyhow.... I need an exterior patch, and NO MJ beds can be found that are not rusty... I remember seeing some one use an XJ body panel as a patch... I want to see pics, before, during, and after. Thanks

You should just drive that thing up here and let me put a VORTEX brand spray on liner inside of the bed. We could clean it all up, POR15 the rusty spots, rattle can primmer the others, and spray down an extra thick polyurethane liner over it all. It would make it look very very good. As for the dent in the rear quarter panel..... just clean the truck up real good and forget about it. It is not like it is a GEM anyhow. Right??

I agree with the 8.8 suggestions... A few years back I had picked up FSJ D44's, several of them, and I eventually decided against the whole modded 44 deal because they are hard parts. $100 at any U-PULL it that has an 8.8 with discs and 4.10 gears, a $350 lunch box locker, and an upgraded front with OX selectable Locker is the best way to go for 34" tire and smaller.

Well guys... I have one MJ with a coated gas tank POR15 KIT, and one MJ with a new cheap replacement steel tank that works on many small PU's. I don't like the cheap tank. It is not mounted properly for me (previous owner replaced it) I like the square stainless tank in the photos of the guy who painted his frame rails. I also like his mounting kit with the steel cross bars. I was wondering, is there any demand for a kit like this?? Stainless high capacity tank, with extra thick bottom so no skid is needed, that uses factory sending unit etc, with a new strap kit or an ez bed removal mountain kit. How much would you guys be willing to pay for this??

Additional Photo Request I am also interested in a shot of the rocker panels looking down with the door open, and I would like to see one with the rocker horizontal, taken from under the tranny or t-case looking out at the old pinch weld and one that it straight from the rear wheel forward looking up, and from the front wheel looking back. I am going to build rockers like those very soon for my XJ, but my problem is that I don't have EXO CAGE to attach them to. I am thinking about cutting out a portion of the tubing and placing braces in the cut open tubing to make it rigid. Then I am going to run at least 2 brace over to the frame that will be flat L shaped braces that will run flush with the floor, over to the frame and down along the frame. Then I will either bolt, or weld them to the frame. Probably bolt to avoid burning the primer off the inside of the frame rails and creating weak rusty spots. Furthermore, I will be starting construction on a tub bed that will be a very good copy of what you did in the next few weeks.

I fund the Corroless Stuff online. But Arcanol is an ingredient that is in paint. What brand of black paint did you use?? Where did you buy both, and how much did you pay. AMS

MJTruggy Please??

He made RUBICLONE STICKERS for me too. I had one that had bubbles in 2 of the letters, and with no questions asked, another decal showed up in the mail a few days later. I put the first one on with no problems, and the second one went on perfect then bubbles showed up a few min later. Spencer walked me through the technique that I used and then explained to me where I could do something different to make the application better, using a credit card instead of a body putty applicator. I don't think that it was my fault, but even if it was, no questions asked. I have not put my MJ and Tailgate Decals on yet. I am waiting for Comanche Decals in the font like the origional side cladding, and XJ and Cherokee Decals in the font like the oringional side decals on my XJ and I am going to do the XJ and MJ on fender, with flags below them, and Cherokee and or Comanche on the lower door like the newer XJ's or if I can fit it, on the fender where it is supposed to be. Anyhow Awesome Stuff!!

I was on e-bay today looking at Jeep Comanche vehicles for sale and I noticed that they hide the names of bidders now. They call the bidder bidder1 bidder2 etc. What kind of crap is that? How can I bid on something if I don't know who I am bidding against?? And how many times that person has bid?? and search by name to see what else that person has bought, sold, or is bidding on?? Furthermore, if I seller has 5 unrelated items for sale like a boom box, a Jeep, a ball glove, antique glass dish, and Jeep lift parts, I should have a right to investigate his auctions to see if the same person is bidding on all five items running the price up. (I feel that is suspicious, and I would not want to bid) I contacted E-bay, about the problem, and they told me they did this to help people stay safe. What a bunch of crap

That is a beautiful MJ!! Very nice work.

http://www.automart.com/browse-cars/j/jeep/comanche/ BUNCH A STUPID IDIOTS!

JUST FYI!! A YJ or TJ Wrangler Hard Top Will fit in the bed of an MJ if you put it in sideways. I did not have to lift up the lift gate when I put mine in there.

Let me know when you are gonna have the rest of the guys over to your place to work on the floor... That would be my big chance nail her in public with out risk of you following us around anymore....

You guys are right about the scrap prices. I went there yesterday with a heavy aluminum glider chase lounge, with all aluminum straps that support the cushons and wooden handles and plastic wheels. The guy wanted to give me $3.50 for the damn thing and it was like 43 lbs of aluminum (45lbs actually, but 2 lbs for the wheels and handles) They buy aluminum for 60 cents per lb. I asked the guy what the deal was and he balked about a the wheels and the handles and 2 screws that were rusty that were holding the back support to the frame. I said you have got to be kidding me?? I said it is not for sale unless I get at least 50 cents per lb for it. He made it sound like it was going to take a million dollars for his guy to hit the handles and the wheels with a torch. The guy stands there all day burning radiators out of vehicles and a/c units and cracking transfer cases engine blocks and other things with this set of jaws to remove steel parts from inside. So I came back home and cut it up into pieces and stuffed it down into my can full of aluminum cans and I will take it back next week on Saturday when they accept cans in bulk from people. As for the comanche parts. They told me I had to pay 50 Cents per lb for the front axle if the guy lifted the mj up with a fork lift and cut every thing loose with a torch. They only buy vehicles for 8 cents per lb