89MJComanche

For my 87MJ I need Maroon Center Seat Belts (both the adjustable strap and the buckle) Maroon A Pillar upper trim piece for Driver Side Speedo Cable (4x4) Auto231 setup For my 1995 Snow Plow Jeep Cherokee I need the following Used Oil Pressure Sensor (broke mine off and it pukes oil) Left (Driver Side) Tail Light and Front Corner Marker Light For my 2005 LWB RUBICON Grey Interior Rear Seat Belts (the strap ends that bolt to the roll cage) I will PAY for you to box this stuff up and ship it too me!! Went to U-Pull it yards (2 of them) WASTE OF TIME!! NOT A SINGLE GOOD XJ in either one!! amswor@yahoo.com

The transfer case is not an NP 231. It is an NP 207. I hope this info helps. I SEE IT NOW!!! What other model Jeeps had NP207's?? 4CYL Wranglers?? 4CYL XJ?? GM 6CYL XJ?? At first glance it looked like an NP231 (cause I was not looking real close) What are the statistics on an NP207 (I'm assuming it is nearly identical to a 231 except for smaller chain etc??) What about the spline counts?? Case Size(Length in particular) and what about it's mounting holes for the bell housing and/or the cross member mount?? Still for the $250 I paid for it... GOOOD DEAL!!

My wife's Uncle Tom has had this Jeep for several years. 3 years ago he was going to sell it to me for $750, but would not put a battery in it and spend 15-20 min getting it running, putting air in the tires, etc. So waiting really paid off... cause he sold it to me finally for $250... I went over tonight (it has not been started in at least 6 months) spent 5 min throwing a battery in it, put a bottle fuel stabilizer/dry gas in it, turned the key to on position and checked a few things... cranked it over 1 or 2 times and it fired right up!! It sounds great!! A little belt chirping (need to tighten tensioner a little) and it's all good. So you would think that this thing was a huge rust bucket. Really it is not!! The bed is blistered a little in the typical spots, but the frame and everything underneath is spotless!! With one exception being 2 fist size holes in the floors in the typical spots in the front. There are 2 mechanical problems. Shifter Stuck in 4x4. and brake lines for the rear are leaking. Here is the plan. I'm going to take the Jeep to the local Vocational School and let the students do the following. Complete Brake Overhaul Including *New Master Cylinder *New Brakes Lines on entire vehicle *3 New Brake Rubber Hoses *2 New Fully Loaded Front Calipers *2 New Rotors *New Hardware for the 35 Rear with new Shoes *New E-Brake Cables to replace broken ones Complete Fluid Change ATF in 231 Gear oil in 30/35 and Gear Oil in AX4 (4 speed tranny) It is also going to get 2" RC Coild 2" RC AAL's 4 RC Shocks 1 Steering Staibilzer If needed Ball Joints Wheel Joints Shaft Joints I'm going to put 4 30" Mud Slinger Re-Treads on a set of wheels (LOOKING 4 a set of 4 Wrangler Gamblers or Cherokee Hollie Mollies) I also need a 1986 Header Panel as this one has a huge gash in it, and I gotta go try and find a manual door at a U-Pull it to get drivers side door guts. I'm super stoked about this little 4 banger as I'd like to have it to run around in the winter too and from the Ski Resort, to haul firewood, Mulch, Garbage etc, at our Weekend House in the mountains. I'm going to fix this up and make it sound, and then I'm going to use the $#!& out of it. I'll be looking for cheap sturdy light weight protective bumpers for the front and back... This will be the only Jeep I own without an ARB Bullbar on the front of it... Unless I can find one for $250. So I'll post up some pics as soon as I get it home tomorrow or Monday.

You make me PUKE!! Jeep needs to Divorce Chrysler so that it Survives!! Chrysler is going to Kill Jeep. While I admit the new Trail Duster could sell, It needs to have Subaru Tough Parts. SX4 while it is a neat little fuel efficient CUV, is a chintsy POS (and I will admit that Tracker/Sidekicks were great) The lineup needs to include the following JK 2 Door JK 4 Door Hemi Option for Above JK 4DR FST (Full Steel Top) JT or J8 (with Nukizer or XJ inspired front clip) and a seperate Bed Box. -Current WK needs put back to SFA in new design but it aint getting it for the rich yuppies that want to over pay $10,000 for an SUV. -Current Liberty (what are the letters?) Needs completly eliminated = Low Ground Clearance JUNK (KJ looks like a real offroader now, never thought I'd say that) Base model WK needs to replace Liberty. -Patriot (KK?) If they would just make the bumpers etc so they can be easily swapped and an Up Country Version with the Locking 4x4 package and 235x16's. Jeep needs to wise up, Divorce Goodyear Wrangler Tires, start putting BFG ATKO's on everything, start offering Stripped down Rubicon Models Again, instead of putting $900 worth of Tires and Wheels on a $20,000 Jeep, and some fancy Decals and Seats and Charging $27,000 for it (Islander and Mountain Editions are cool by WAY OVERPRICED)

How do you suggest that I burn them off?? From the inside, or from the outside? It is gonna be kinda hard to get a torch all the way up in there right??

Well, I went the to powder coaters today and picked up my JCR Offroad Rear Bumper. Damn does it look good!! I've been soaking my bumper bolts for 2 weeks with PB and Liquid Wrench. I did not get a single fu(king bolt out. I broke all of them. So now what? Drill and Tap? What is the threads for tap?? Or should I get JCR to make me a set of NUT CERT Strips to go inside the rails that line up with the 4 horizontal holes and the 2 verticle holes and use that instead?? Then I could just chisle off the old nuts welded to the frame and use the new nut certs with regular grade 8 bolts? Opinions??

I'm an MJ driver, and a member of this forum. Please help me with my Pepsi RefreshEverything.com Grant. I need you to vote 1 time each day the entire month of April. http://www.refresheverything.com/mobilurgentcareunit Clicky here, it only takes a few seconds each day!! Thanks a bunch guys!!

Is there anyone on here that can copy that CFC auction page for me and upload the page and the photos to my website. I want to archive that as evidence of how awful CFC really was.

Our traileriffic second home that we moved into to live in full time last year has a few spots that are leaking on the roof... not major leaks... just damp spots on the interior ceiling plaster. I need to replace the entire roof (shingles) but I'd like to try and just spot fix it till next spring. If I have to get into the entire job what kind of plywood am I going to find under the shingles?? Melamine particle board or OSB board?? Is there anything that I should know about that is different from say ripping off a roof from a good stick built house?? What kind of nails?? Staples am I going to use?? Anyone have any suggestions?? Aaron

The amazing thing about us as Americans is that we allow places like that one to exist. Why were those cars ever taken off the road to begin with? Many of the photos that you posted don't even show wrecked cars in them? We could learn many lessons on Economics from Cuba who has not has open auto imports for like 50 years. We need to stop producing throw away junk in this country and start to realize what we have been doing wrong to get us into this mess. Spending your money on a new motor, an oil change, a body repair, or to fix up that old car, would keep money in your local town, spent in blue collar repair shops, helping out the guy on "main street" as we have come to say. Buying new, financing through the bank, only helps wall street. Consumers, need to quit purchasing this junk until the automakers change and make quality cars like Honda and Toyota. You see people all over the place fixing 150,000 mile civics and accords because they are good cars worth fixing. Intrepids and Malibu's are not. Some day down the road... it will be the Jap cars sitting in a field, as todays American made cars like the ones in the photos in this post from yesteryear will all goto the scrapper.

List Of Targeted Pittsburgh-Area Dealerships Day’s Baum Blvd. Dodge, Pittsburgh -------- Day Automotive has like five other CJD dealers... No biggy Beckman Motor Co. Inc, Mt. Oliver------- Where is this dealer at? :???: Burgunder Motors, Bridgeville------- :huh???: (This is a huge suprise on the list) I would have figured that with Tomsic/Corwin/Century III out that this would have been a great place to move them too. Century III Dodge, Pleasant Hills--------- To close to next dealer (Ron Lewis will get this franchise up the street) Golick Chrysler-Jeep, Pitcairn ------ More than one customer has told this guy to GOLICK his own arse. Kalmar Motor Sales, Leechburg ----------I had no idead that there was even a dealer in Leechburg Krebs Chrysler-Jeep, Glenshaw ------To close to next dealer Krebs Motors North, Gibsonia ------ This location has lots of potential because it is on the main drag in a growing area?? Lieberth & Sons Dodge, Oakmont -------To close to next dealer Verona Jeep, Verona --------------- This guy who owns this place is a hoot. He is stomping mad.... :mad: His entire car lot/building/showroom etc is worth about $35,000. He has less than 10 new vehicles on his lot, and he is complaining because Fiat just took his $35,000 away from him making him worthless. Hello buddy, you have been worthless for years, give up and sell used Jeeps. Wright Dodge, Wexford ------- To close to next dealer Corwin Jeep, Hickory--------- Beau and Jimmy Corwin, I was your customer when I was 16 thanks to Tom Frankfurt at your parts counter. You had me for life, but you never could come anywhere close on price so I never bought new from you. When I went through the process with my 2005 that the selling dealer put a bad replacement tranny in, I brought you a $3000 warranty repair job, and since I was mad as hell at DCX you called me and MUTHER F'ed me on the phone. Simply put, you are the worlds oldest Jeep dealer, and you are now out of business because you are stupid and have been ripping people off for years. :yes: Graft Chrysler-Dodge-Jeep, Scottdale --------- What a joke this place is, five different buildings stretched out over two city blocks no lot, no show room, no one even lives in Scottdale Graham Colonial Motors, Ligonier------------------- Poor Fella who owned this place was so sick over the car business that he decided to torch his own car lot and he had a heart attack and died in the process. The car business literally killed him. Such a sad story. Town & Country Chrysler Dodge, Ligonier --------- To close to Hillview in Greensburg PA John Howard Motors, Morgantown ------ Sorry John, I've been your customer three times now in the past few years, but your name has been made into Mud with all the crap going on down there. PS Your Waynesburg Dealership remains open as Ron Lewis Waynesburg CJD. Saylor Motor Company, Somerset------- Tri-Star Motors has already moved into this dealership. Tomsic Motor Company, Washington ------------- Simply Put These People are a Joke, No Jeeps on the Lot, No Service People Who Know Anything, and They Tried to give me $1000 for a Nissan 240 SX a few years ago that I sold outright for $6500. LOOK FOR CHRYSLER TO FORCE OTHER 1 BRAND DEALERS TO MERGE... If you are in the Marriage Council business, go get your sales mans license as dealers like Steve VASKO Dodge and Larry Winter's SOUTH HILLS CHRYLSER are going to probably be forced to get married... What a blood bath that is going to be. Fiat, Take some consumer advice here. Get rid of Jeep Compass Continue to produce Jeep Patriot in three models X, Sport, Limited with not one single option avaliable except for tranny choice on X and Sport and color choice. Quit making the 4x2 version as Jeep is 4x4. Make all options dealer install. Scrap Jeep Liberty and Jeep Grand Cherokee and come out with a new vehicle to replace the two of them, that will also replace Jeep XJ Cherokee. Consider using the Wrangler JK platform for this new vehicle, with a real frame. Call it the Wagoneer and Grand Wagoneer Wagoneer/Grand Wagoneer (IFS and UpCountry Solid Axle) X (Base model with wind ups, good vinyl seats) $21,000/$23,000 sticker price Manual and Auto Tranny Options, and Solid Axle Up Country Option Sport (Packaged model with fabric, wheels, tires, etc. (still wind ups make power dealer install) Manual and Auto Tranny Options and Solid Axle Up Country Option Limited (Packaged model, heated seats, leather, power everything, etc) Manual and Auto Tranny Options, and Solid Axle Up Country Option Wrangler/Wrangler Unlimited Keep these the same, but reduce the options to four packages. Wrangler X Wrangler Sahara/Sport Wrangler Rubicon Tranny/Color/Top options Produce Wrangler FST (Full Steel Top) in X and Rubicon for utility company and cold weather folks. And Produce the Damn JT Pickup Truck on the 4DR chassi. It only takes a small modification to the current production process to skin the sides and install a different hard top. DIESEL DIESEL DIESEL DIESEL!!!! BLUE TEC 40MPG and HORSEPOWER GALORE PLEASE!!! Get Rid of Dodge Caliber and bring out a 2WD/Awd Sedan/Wagon to replace NEON and Complete with Civic/Corrolla etc that gets 40MPG, Make it last ten years and 200,000 miles. Get Rid of Journey (Buy a Jeep People) Get Rid of Durango and Aspen (Again Buy a Jeep People) Get Rid of Sebring, Avenger Junk, and produce a car worth buying that will last like Accord and Camry and get 40 MPG. This car needs to sell for sticker $14,000-$18,000 to compete. Charger/300 is your full size car you gotta keep. This is actually the best American Made car in the past ten years IMHO. Make only one Chrysler 300 Model, Fully Loaded with everything plus the kitchen sink. Sell the Dodge Model as the base/fleet version, and an SRT/Performance Version again with NO OPTIONS. Make everything Dealer Install like Honda/Acrua does and let aftermarket producers supply the parts with the MOPAR name on them to the dealer for install. Keep the Challenger, Raise the Price to make it worth while, make is Like Corvette. Get Rid of Dakota (lets face it an F150 and Ram1500 are just a tad bigger) , make Ram 1500 get better mileage possibly by making it smaller and lighter as most half ton trucks never get worked anyhow. Keep 2500 and up as your RAM TOUGH Truck line. Keep the MiniVan lineup as is but cut a model or two and get rid of all of the options... make stuff standard one package deal or dealer install.

I need to get a bumper built for the back of my 1987 MJ that has an integrated hitch built into it. I'm thinking about a single tube rear bumper, that would be 3" in diameter, and would be built in this way. The tube would be pushed as far forward as possible, and the corners of the tube would be cut so that the ends would only be half the circle of the tube. A set of bumper mounting brackets would mount to the side and the bottom of the frame, and pass completly through the bumper main tube where there will be clevise hooks attached. There will also be a 2" reciever hitch that is passed through the center of the tube. Due to the clearence behind the main tube, a hole may need cut in the bump of the side to side bed support that is buldged for the spare tire. I envision this bumper looking like the heavy duty steel ones that are found on alot of drilling industry trucks, and utility company trucks. Anyone built a bumper like this for an MJ??

CCS CPS Same Thing... Crank Case Sensor, Crank Position Sensor.

I don't believe that the 4cyl had a RENIX IGNITION system?? It was AMC right?? Anyhow this MJ is a 4.0

Right.... But I am trying to get it running so that I can drive it home.

I found another low mileage MJ that is a little bit rusty that I would like to buy because the guy only wants $400 for it. It sprays fuel and the check valve = fuel pump good (was recently replaed) CCS was recently replaced Distributor was recently replaced Still no Spark. Pick Up Coil?? Body Computer on the dash?? Blown Ignition Fuses?? I searched for quite a few strings and the only real good post that I found was the CCS post and that is not it. Any suggestions?

OK UPDATE AT 11:00 AM TODAY. Went to Autoparts Store to get Water Pump, Thermostat, Gaskets, Coolant and other stuff to try to solve my immediate problem of no driveability and sevear overheating problem. I pulled the thermostat completly out, and re-installed the gooseneck thermostat cover without a thermostat behind it. I filled the system with water and went for about a five mile drive pushing the motor on a 2 lane highway. It did not overheat (and it did not push any water out of the overflow hose that is not connected to anything right now) The heater inside of the Jeep stayed luke warm the whole time. It is sitting outside at idle right now. I'm getting some leakage around the Thermostat Gooseneck Cover (from the quick RTV seal job to test it) and I am getting some seeping (sizziling) along the manifold/head area that can be seen from the top. It looks more like oil vapor now there than white steam. Of course with no T-Stat I'm probably running at what ? 160? I'm going to drive the 60 miles home with it like this and use my inside heater as a monitor of the heat issue (since I have idiot lights) if it gets too hot, or completly cold, I'll stop and either refill the system or let it cool down and start over again. I'm not 100% confident that replacement of the water pump, T-Stat, and fluid is going to solve this problem because I don't kow if the engine is going to be able to run at 220 like it is supposed to without pushing steam past blown gaskets. Still no foam in engine oil under valve cover or on Dipstick. I'll change the oil in her as soon as I get home today. I guess that in many ways this engine is probably not quite as toated as I thought the other night, but still overheating engough to break of a manifold bolt is HOT HOT HOT!! If I paid for a Head Gasket, Valve Cover Gasket, Manifold Gasket job, anyone think that it would be wise to just get the oil pan pulled and DEGUNK anything else and go back with all new gaskets? Also if I do that? can I do a simple swap to a 1999 intake manifold without major mods to this renix engine? And last thing, PLEASE SOME ONE FIND ME AN AUTOMATIC COLUMN SHIF RENIX GAUGE CLUSTER>

I had the overflow bottle on there... The overflow bottle plastic cap (newer style HO overflowbottle) It does not have one right now because the steam toasted it the other night. Melted like a chocolate drop on hot asphalt.

I made the statement about the bisquick box because it is 22 miles from my house up here in the mountains to the autoparts store and I was thinking about pulling the T-Stat and putting the housing back on as a test measure to see if it still boils over. All good suggestions in your post thanks. I know that I have steam leaking from my valve cover gasket and oil filler, and from along the manifold which tells me that the head is either cracked or gasket blown out. I know that you can overheat a 4.0 something fierce and not damge it, I have overheated a few in my sig and have never blown one up to the point that it would not run to propel the Jeep at least across a parking lot. This time however is definatly the hottest I have ever gotten one.

Water pump no noise. I did not pull the T-Stat yet. I'm going to pull it first thing in the morning when I can get some housing sealer. Anyone think that I can make a gasket with a bisquick box for the housing so that I don't have to buy one to test the T-stat? I doubt that it is the problem, but I guess anything is worth a shot. It starts and idles fine, and sounds normal, it takes about five min to get really hot past the point where it can't hold the extra fluid when it pushes the spring on the cap out to leak. Head Gasket exterior on passengers side is not leaking any oil or appear to be bad, manifold gasket is toast, and one manifold bolt, front lower is broken off from the over heat.

Well, the ghost and the goblins of halloween got to my MJ last night. I stopped off to meet my fiance for dinner in Mt. Pleasant PA at Leo's Rt31 Grille, and everything was just fine. I got in the MJ to drive the 9 miles from there to our home after being at the resturant for well over 2 hrs and it over heated on the way home. I think that I only drove about 1 mile after the heater quit blowing hot air so I had some other kind of internal failure. After it steamed over, and all steam had stopped, the engine was still hot as hell. I'm going to thank the IDIOT LIGHT Dash for this one, as the lights never, and still have not come on to indiacate any problems. I can't junk this MJ because it is so clean and because I have replaced nearly everything else on it. It only has 60,000 origional miles. I also just sold 2 perfectly fine 4.0 HO engines to others from this forum for way less than I am going to have to spend to solve my own problem now. Here is what I want to do. I want to get a new cerfitied remanufactured engine installed with a Warranty of many years and many thousands of miles. I'd like to convert the old no HO engine over to a HO setup with a 1999 intake manifold and Gale Banks Tube for similar engine. I have intake manifold already with a set of good injectors in it. I'm not a 4.0 engine expert but I know that there were some differences between the 1987-1990 Renix deals and the 1991-1999 vintage HO and later model HO, before the distrubitorless ignition changes in 2000. I need to get a motor put in this ASAP by some one reputable who can solve these issues and give me back a fresh powerhouse in this great little MJ. Radiator and other engine peripherals were recently replaced or rebuilt so I don't think that much other stuff will need to be source. Budget, as low as possible, and prefer not to be over $1800. I'd do a used HO swap, if only I had one of the two good (that I drove) low mileage engines that I have sold for pennys on the dollar of what it is going to cost me to repair/replace this problem Anyone suggest anyone that can help me? Here are the symptoms. Ran real freaking hot, heater was burning up inside, inside heater went cold indicating low fluid for a mile or two, then got hot again. Then it steamed over under the hood, still running, I stopped and let it cool down. It completly boiled out of steam and was still HOT HOT HOT. It blew a bolt off the front of the manifold, and it blew out a few chunks of manifold gasket. Now it starts, runs, sounds good, and idles fine. Take it for a 1 or 2 mile spin around the block and it pushes tons of boiled over fluid out the overflow (1987 with open system conversion, right now with no over flow bottle) I don't have any crank case foam, but I do have steam venting from the top/under the valve cover. I need a 4.0 expert who knows which model year of engine to order for the swap to get the HO thing right, or some one who is not going to waste my time with trying this and that without it working right. What should I do?? Next I'm going to pull the Thermostat out and fill it back up with fluid and see how it runs after that?? AMS

Multiply that by $4.11 per gallon and it makes the equation that much worse.

Another What's it worth thread?? I found a 1991 Pioneer Metric Ton 2WD automatic for sale for $700. The drivers side of the bed is rotton, and the passengers side rocker panel has a large hole. Floor looks pretty good. Jeep has 168,000 on it. Is $700 to much for a 2WD with D44 in that condition?? I'm thinking 4WD conversion, with Rough Country AAL Lift, and some 30" Mud Slingers with a snow plow mounted to the front. What gear ratio is in this?? 4.10 or 3.55???

Right... Just like the JCR ones only $25?? Anyone know where that post went?? AMS

OK guys... I searched for about 2 hours tonight. Some one was selling CNC machine DIY front bumper mounting plates for either side frame rail for $25 shipped. I need a set of these to re-fabricate a NISSAN truck snow plow mount to fit an XJ/MJ. Anyone know where the post went for the guy selling these? I might have seen this a JAYUEW!! but I could not find it there either?