foreman1063

I bet

I found these after I replaced the fuse block on my 88. I would have tried these if i would have found them first. http://www.delcity.net/store/Fuse-Block ... /p_177.a_1

Thanks Cruiser, I'll give it a try. I have an 88 but oddly enough it does Not have the dreaded C101 connector. :???:

Truck started some new behavior the last couple of months. Starts and runs fine when cold. Take a short trip, shut off and restart, sounds and feels like it runs on 5 cylinders. Rev it up a few times and it finally smooths out, usually. Today it happened a couple of times while running around doing errands but on the last stop I thought it was going to leave me stranded. Turned over fine but would not start, from time to time, while cranking, it sounded like it might start but didn't. Finally after about 5 minutes and 5-6 attempts to start it finally did. It cranked and cranked, then slowly, roughly began to run, after a few seconds of revving it smoothed out. Work done the last 6 months: New plugs, dizzy & cap, wires, timing chain, injectors, fuel filter, knock sensor, adjusted TPS, bla bla bla. Any ideas? :dunno:

Right, no shims. You'll need one of These to adjust the backlash or something like it.

Don't get a Craftsman torque wrench, they are crap and expensive. An axle swap and RMS replacement will require two different torque wrenches. Oil pan bolts get 11 ft/pounds of torque( best to use an inch/pound wrench and multiply torque value by 12) and doing an axle swap will probably require torques in the 50-150 ft/pounds range. If you plan on working on and maintaining a vehicle you really need an inch/pound, a 3/8" drive ft/pounds and a 1/2" drive ft/pound torque wrench. This will give you flexibility to use a wrench that will keep the required torque in the mid range of each wrench, for better accuracy.

Or control arms and track bar in the case of the front 30.

Good find, check out the injectors. That seems to fix rough running on all of my jeep projects.

Doing a 8.8 rear axle swap? A couple of tips for ya. Install the brake backing plates backwards so the E-brakes cables exit from the rear of the vehicle. this will allow the cable exit the backing plate and make a nice sweeping arc to the front connector bracket on the frame. When installed with the cables exiting forward, the cables have to make an S shape with tight bends, to line up with the frame bracket. Speaking of E-brake cables, Crown makes a series of cable that are set up for Ford E-bakes on the axle end and Jeep connection on the frame end. After three attempts I finally got the right cable length to work with the front cable adjuster block. The cable your looking for is Crown E-brake cable DBC-01, made to Fit 1987 to 1990 YJ Wranglers, Passenger side rear. Look HERE Hope this helps. :thumbsup:

Like you said, could be a combo problem. Loose steering box, loose/worn bushings on track bar and or control arms, worn out shocks. Pretty much need to get it in the air and star shacking and moving stuff around.

Got a 93 XJ that I've been working on. The fuel pump was howling terribly and the gas gauge was stuck on E, with the low fuel light on. I swapped in another gauge cluster to verify the gauge wasn't the problem and it had exactly the same issue, so the sending unit must be bad. I ordered a a new pump assembly and got it installed today. The new pump is nice and quiet but the gas gauge is still stuck on E with the low fuel light on. :wall: I wish I would have tested the new sending unit before installing, at least if it is bad I could have saved myself the aggravation of installing it and removing it again. If the sending unit tests good any good ideas what the problem may be?

Got done with the fuse panel swap, disk brake swap and a host of other projects and the last thing to do was to get the e-brake working so I could get an inspection. The pedal had worked in the past but the drum brakes were missing some parts so E-brake no workie. Now, The disk are all set up and working but the pedal doesn't ratchet or hold. I did some searching and everything I read said the teeth typically wear of the pedal assembly rendering it useless. I have a couple of donor trucks so my plan was to swap the pedal assembly out with one from the other truck. Finally got the bad pedal pulled out and discovered that the spring that holds the paw against the toothy thing was unhooked. I hooked it up, put it all back together and every thing works great. So the point of this long story is, don't assume your pedal assembly is worn out if it stops ratcheting, at least check out the spring before you go to the trouble of pulling it. :thumbsup:

Heat is your friend :yes:

Get a loaner ball joint press. A mapp gas torch is handy to heat up the inner knuckle when you press the BJ in and out. I always get Spicer joints.

I just followed your write up on adding the IP ground jumper wire when I replaced the fuse panel. Unfortunately, did not fix this one issue. I'm thinking maybe the problem is in the gauge cluster. :dunno:

Finally got my electrical gremlins sorted out but one. The turn signal indicators burn steady when the head lights are on unless the turn signals/flashers are in use and then the indicators flash. Anyone else have this problem or have seen it?

I replaced all of these plus the RMS, come to find out my worst oil leak is from the head gasket. :doh:

Rear 35? If so, I would address that before 33's or 35's, if you're going to wheel it.

My mistake (if it don't float, they all look the same to me). :yes: I meant the F-15E Strike Eagle. The 18 and 15 do look pretty similar. Good luck to your daughter getting in the F-15 program.

I didn't realize the Air Force flew the F/A 18, I thought only the Navy and Marine corp flew them in the US.

Just dawned on me, April fools, Duh! :doh: Good one Cherokee Club

Is this a joke? :???: XJ registry, Cherokee forums?

Junk yard. I recently discovered that same part was missing from the drum brakes in my rear 44 (hence no E brake, thanks PO) and I couldn't find it at the part stores. I went to the dealer but he couldn't spell Comanche without the VIN much less find a part for one. The brakes were shot any way so I decided instead of spending the cash on rebuilding the drums to do a disk conversion.

Appears to have quite a bit of rust in places bet their is more hiding.

That's what I did and it got the fuse block on the floor pretty much, so access is much better. I also removed the seat which helps as well. Should have mine finished up tomorrow night, then on to the rear disk brake swap. :wrench: