llhat

yes, charcoal canister for evap system... at some point in running cycle, there will be a vacuum signal to purge the vapors, believe controlled by a solenoid on the drivers side fender... not sure where a vacuum diagram is posted . I'd either cap them off or (preferred) fix them. one of course goes to top of fuel tank, there's probably two fittings on top of tank "Y"d together for trip to canister. yep, not having the map sensor detecting vacuum will do some funky things... sill have marginal concerns with liquid oil from exhaust... sure not condensation with carbon/oil mix ?

liquid oil or blue oil smoke? valid thought on getting those vacuum leaks stopped. this sounds like a long path, but navigable

heck i HAD to look it up... Load Sensing Valve thanks for the tips, I have not deleted, nor do i think i have issues with mine.... yet

Thank you for the link, yes that is the article March 1989 Hot Rod magazine... It is on page nine as indicated, scroll down the page to post by fiatslug87 I have retained to computer so i can enlarge the image to read again... this was about 8 years before i bought my 1989 MJ with 70k on it.

way back when I recall reading an article in Hot Rod Magazine where they built a stroker engine and installed a paxton blower this was probably in the 1989 time frame. anyone know the article?

dunno for sure, but be sure to protect those wire in the lower image (driver's side?) not going to be near mine soon to try to look to see what factory did would make sense to not have them routed through the brace as harness would need to be 'un threaded' if you removed the brace.

would that not show some weird readings when testing the TPS signal? Base voltage, regulated voltage, and if using analog, noting the 'sweep' of voltage? No change in TPS signal would seemingly confuse the hell out of the ECM and TCU.... glad you are whittling this down....

and one has to be concerned with the effect of heat and oil on the material... yeah there's room for tolerances.... wanted to give a starting point on a new, unused gasket.

i have not checked fitment on the new Stant Cap as of 'now' , it also was not installed on the new cap, but in the box. I do not know how the washer measurement compares to the NAPA part number. I've an 'old time' hardware store here, have not checked it for similar washer.

unknown, but.... Here's measurements from a NEW Stant part# 10085 unit OD 1.77" 45.2mm ID 1.05" 26.6mm THK 0.09" 2.4mm (taken with harbor freight digital caliper)

How about your fuel pump resistor, is it bypassed? When the start solenoid is engaged (behind battery under the plastic electrical cover (beside the coil), there is current directly placed to the fuel pump, bypassing the resistor on the drivers side fender (beside air box). its terminal is at the top of the start relay, you can power the pump from that wire by unplugging it and applying +12v to the wire.

in your prior post you showed a pic of the IAC pintle with the buildup of 'stuff' on it... you did not though IIRC state cleaning of the orifice in the throttle body, so yes, this could be at least another trial...

From Cruisers tips (rip) anyone tried a small bead of RTV on a 'new' cap surface, then the new gasket? figure small bead let cure, then the new gasket, should make the fitment tighter trying a Stant cap this time (mi usa) instead of Motorrad or what can be obtained at FLAPS (mostly china) Almost want to try an O ring but figure it may not want to center.

no, i filled from the stock tank on firewall, but had the hose connection i made for new temp gage on housing loose when the coolant started coming out, snugged that fitting... "may" be faster filling using housing connection, but probably messy and getting a dang funnel stabilized would be a PITA re-read my post above.... I bought a gallon of 'pure' antifreeze, and used an empty antifreeze jug to make a 50/50 mix. would this not make two gallons of 50/50?? It appeared I still had about a quart of 50/50 mix left when I was done after circulating, burping, and final fill.

thank you again ...

Really thank you for that table! It is of assistance, but I am a bit dense.... and my confidence has waned in the past couple years.... appears there's two lever positions where the water valve is closed, does this mean vacuum is absent at the pink line connecting it or there's vacuum applied? Logic sort of indicated the valve allows flow in a normal state, and closes when either in OFF or Vent, ? by application of vacuum..... Next time i am messing around will investigate with a vacuum gage ...........

recently drained my 89 with closed system by opening petcock on radiator, then R&R thermostat and housing. I bought a gallon of 'pure' antifreeze, and used an empty antifreeze jug to make a 50/50 mix. Filled system, and did 'burp' couple different ways, I had installed a later version of the thermostat housing with the port for a sensor, which i adapted for a mechanical temperature gage, it appeared this location was at least the same level as the temp sensor at back of cylinder head, so used it for air venting It appeared I still had about a quart of 50/50 mix left when I was done after circulating, burping, and final fill.

can anyone confirm IF this valve is Normally open (allowing coolant flow all the time) or Normally Closed, allowing coolant flow only with vacuum on the line? i've seen descriptions of 'both ways' but no confirmation... one post indicated this valve had vacuum applied when in A/C mode to cut off coolant flow to the heater core... what is truth?

Thank you Ohm! i interpret as 'normal driving'. recent battery cable change, i did not really note any ill effects, but continuing to put miles on it when possible.

think i'd take Ohm's hint and get some spark plug boot pliers and pull some spark plug wires.... Normally with disabling two adjacent cylinders via plugs and no change could indicated a head gasket issue... but think premature here... but a compression test would not hurt, just take time. Ohm, during the relearn process... drive it like you stole it or what?

The older post by @EdJarHead indicated take a short section of the hard tube on the rear harness and fit it to the air box to use these 'new' dorman J tubes.... "finally" today I messed with this (sorry, no pics) there's not a lot of space between the fitting on the rear of the air box and master cylinder. this is why i could not start the longer section of hard line in the nipple on the air box. I cut about a 3" section of the hard tube on old harness and trimmed shorter until i could guide it in the fitting on the air box. it IS a snug fit, once started I used leverage to push it in the fitting.... so EdJarHead's 1 1/2" cut is pretty close !! BTW, the OD of the airbox fitting will accept a piece of 19/32" emissions hose... but this straight hose will not make the 'bend' in the tight confines tween airbox and master cylinder... thus the reason for the molded smaller OD J hose with the flared end to air box... I seated the 'insert' with about an inch of hard line from the end of the airbox fitting. first tried the new J hose, but very tight on clearance to the master cylinder... I cut about 3/4" from the short end of the J hose, used a touch of lubricant and slide it on the exposed "new" fitting, then connected the other end of the J hose to the harness. (next time I think i will try to leave the J hose full length on the short end) I did NOT want to modify the airbox fitting, but I'd guess one 'could' cut it shorter to gain some clearance. I do not believe the 'insert' will come out of the airbox, and now these Dorman rear harnesses can be used when that J hose deteriorates. on a side note, I did get some of the supplies mentioned to replace the elbow and use 19/32 OD emissions hose, but there is just no way to get a decent bend in the area needed... Here's a tip for someone with connections in the aftermarket... manufacture JUST the J hose! and make it slip over the hard line on rear harness and have the short end of the J hose swelled to fit over the original air box... I'd think folks would swipe them up... One could just replace the J hose and not the entire rear harness, as the rest of that harness does not deteriorate. thanks for your attention, hope his helps someone else.

well now later, returned to shop that installed new fuel pump and sender. they reattached the vent line and re-seated the sender o-ring, then filled up the tank with fuel. called me to come examine while there on the lift, (only about 3 miles from me) noted no leaks and has not leaked since. Paid them for the fuel, as they asked and no additional charges.... and they stood by their repair as they should have. 'thumbs up'...

this a mail jeep (right hand drive?) I see steering linkage in the image of the threaded port ... but no oil filter housing... the oil filter housing and pressure sender on other side the image in post above sows a sending unit for something, in really bad shape with the melted housing. edit: I see OHM has identified the sensor...

^^^^ thank you have one and have done that test, which initiated the thought of need to replace thermostat, as temp was a bit low. (170's) On these systems, that pesky coolant valve operation is the mystery... in some older posts it is indicated the valve is normally OPEN, allowing flow, when the A/C control is requested, supposedly vacuum is applied to that valve Closing it.... this is one of the things we've tried to confirm. these lines are to the 1989 design with the crimped collars to seal the hose to the tubular fittings... there are worm clamps at the core fittings, and to the top and bottom of the plastic tank on the firewall. When I finished up work Thursday evening, I could, by touch, determine the core was not getting warm at all.. and agree on "IF" it can be flushed... Like I indicated above when i had the system open/ drained, there was Air Flow through the core, and I could hear the coolant flowing to the fitting on the waterpump by the gurgling sound ... and I did 'restrict' the amount of pressure on the air gun.. it is a 'safety' gun that have two large bleed off ports to control pressure out the end of the device.

yes, back thinking on this I 'should have' got my water hose to it to check flow... and not just that low air pressure. especially while i had the system broken and drained I think i will succumb to the feelings and do a partial drain to do this, hoping to get the hose connections off at the core without breaking something... know about taking a hook or something to break the 'seal' after removing the clamps instead of trying to jerk on those hoses.. I've got it in my 'wash pit' so water on floor not much of a problem... KNOW this would be cheeper than just changing the core out... figure it is a 50% proposition. will resort to CLR or chemical something before pressure washer... agreeing on the 2000psi risk! and it has warmed up here