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From Cruisers tips (rip) anyone tried a small bead of RTV on a 'new' cap surface, then the new gasket? figure small bead let cure, then the new gasket, should make the fitment tighter trying a Stant cap this time (mi usa) instead of Motorrad or what can be obtained at FLAPS (mostly china) Almost want to try an O ring but figure it may not want to center.

no, i filled from the stock tank on firewall, but had the hose connection i made for new temp gage on housing loose when the coolant started coming out, snugged that fitting... "may" be faster filling using housing connection, but probably messy and getting a dang funnel stabilized would be a PITA re-read my post above.... I bought a gallon of 'pure' antifreeze, and used an empty antifreeze jug to make a 50/50 mix. would this not make two gallons of 50/50?? It appeared I still had about a quart of 50/50 mix left when I was done after circulating, burping, and final fill.

thank you again ...

Really thank you for that table! It is of assistance, but I am a bit dense.... and my confidence has waned in the past couple years.... appears there's two lever positions where the water valve is closed, does this mean vacuum is absent at the pink line connecting it or there's vacuum applied? Logic sort of indicated the valve allows flow in a normal state, and closes when either in OFF or Vent, ? by application of vacuum..... Next time i am messing around will investigate with a vacuum gage ...........

recently drained my 89 with closed system by opening petcock on radiator, then R&R thermostat and housing. I bought a gallon of 'pure' antifreeze, and used an empty antifreeze jug to make a 50/50 mix. Filled system, and did 'burp' couple different ways, I had installed a later version of the thermostat housing with the port for a sensor, which i adapted for a mechanical temperature gage, it appeared this location was at least the same level as the temp sensor at back of cylinder head, so used it for air venting It appeared I still had about a quart of 50/50 mix left when I was done after circulating, burping, and final fill.

can anyone confirm IF this valve is Normally open (allowing coolant flow all the time) or Normally Closed, allowing coolant flow only with vacuum on the line? i've seen descriptions of 'both ways' but no confirmation... one post indicated this valve had vacuum applied when in A/C mode to cut off coolant flow to the heater core... what is truth?

Thank you Ohm! i interpret as 'normal driving'. recent battery cable change, i did not really note any ill effects, but continuing to put miles on it when possible.

think i'd take Ohm's hint and get some spark plug boot pliers and pull some spark plug wires.... Normally with disabling two adjacent cylinders via plugs and no change could indicated a head gasket issue... but think premature here... but a compression test would not hurt, just take time. Ohm, during the relearn process... drive it like you stole it or what?

The older post by @EdJarHead indicated take a short section of the hard tube on the rear harness and fit it to the air box to use these 'new' dorman J tubes.... "finally" today I messed with this (sorry, no pics) there's not a lot of space between the fitting on the rear of the air box and master cylinder. this is why i could not start the longer section of hard line in the nipple on the air box. I cut about a 3" section of the hard tube on old harness and trimmed shorter until i could guide it in the fitting on the air box. it IS a snug fit, once started I used leverage to push it in the fitting.... so EdJarHead's 1 1/2" cut is pretty close !! BTW, the OD of the airbox fitting will accept a piece of 19/32" emissions hose... but this straight hose will not make the 'bend' in the tight confines tween airbox and master cylinder... thus the reason for the molded smaller OD J hose with the flared end to air box... I seated the 'insert' with about an inch of hard line from the end of the airbox fitting. first tried the new J hose, but very tight on clearance to the master cylinder... I cut about 3/4" from the short end of the J hose, used a touch of lubricant and slide it on the exposed "new" fitting, then connected the other end of the J hose to the harness. (next time I think i will try to leave the J hose full length on the short end) I did NOT want to modify the airbox fitting, but I'd guess one 'could' cut it shorter to gain some clearance. I do not believe the 'insert' will come out of the airbox, and now these Dorman rear harnesses can be used when that J hose deteriorates. on a side note, I did get some of the supplies mentioned to replace the elbow and use 19/32 OD emissions hose, but there is just no way to get a decent bend in the area needed... Here's a tip for someone with connections in the aftermarket... manufacture JUST the J hose! and make it slip over the hard line on rear harness and have the short end of the J hose swelled to fit over the original air box... I'd think folks would swipe them up... One could just replace the J hose and not the entire rear harness, as the rest of that harness does not deteriorate. thanks for your attention, hope his helps someone else.

well now later, returned to shop that installed new fuel pump and sender. they reattached the vent line and re-seated the sender o-ring, then filled up the tank with fuel. called me to come examine while there on the lift, (only about 3 miles from me) noted no leaks and has not leaked since. Paid them for the fuel, as they asked and no additional charges.... and they stood by their repair as they should have. 'thumbs up'...

this a mail jeep (right hand drive?) I see steering linkage in the image of the threaded port ... but no oil filter housing... the oil filter housing and pressure sender on other side the image in post above sows a sending unit for something, in really bad shape with the melted housing. edit: I see OHM has identified the sensor...

^^^^ thank you have one and have done that test, which initiated the thought of need to replace thermostat, as temp was a bit low. (170's) On these systems, that pesky coolant valve operation is the mystery... in some older posts it is indicated the valve is normally OPEN, allowing flow, when the A/C control is requested, supposedly vacuum is applied to that valve Closing it.... this is one of the things we've tried to confirm. these lines are to the 1989 design with the crimped collars to seal the hose to the tubular fittings... there are worm clamps at the core fittings, and to the top and bottom of the plastic tank on the firewall. When I finished up work Thursday evening, I could, by touch, determine the core was not getting warm at all.. and agree on "IF" it can be flushed... Like I indicated above when i had the system open/ drained, there was Air Flow through the core, and I could hear the coolant flowing to the fitting on the waterpump by the gurgling sound ... and I did 'restrict' the amount of pressure on the air gun.. it is a 'safety' gun that have two large bleed off ports to control pressure out the end of the device.

yes, back thinking on this I 'should have' got my water hose to it to check flow... and not just that low air pressure. especially while i had the system broken and drained I think i will succumb to the feelings and do a partial drain to do this, hoping to get the hose connections off at the core without breaking something... know about taking a hook or something to break the 'seal' after removing the clamps instead of trying to jerk on those hoses.. I've got it in my 'wash pit' so water on floor not much of a problem... KNOW this would be cheeper than just changing the core out... figure it is a 50% proposition. will resort to CLR or chemical something before pressure washer... agreeing on the 2000psi risk! and it has warmed up here

confirmed there visual confirmation of the blend door operating... the cable moves with the movement of the lever on dash and it is connected. Today... Drained coolant Changed Thermostat (192°) I did drill a small vent in the flat surface of the thermostat and oriented it 'UP' on placement. I used a Motorrad kit with an New housing, etc, but for a later model year to get the threaded fitting so I could install a mechanical temperature gauge. There was an issue, needed a 3/8 npt male to 1/2 npt female bushing as without the bushing the probe on the gauge would not seat or seal, (Heck the retaining nut would not even start in the furnished adapter) With coolant drained, I put some 'light' air pressure in the hose that is connected to the thermostat housing, (it feeds the control valve and then to the bottom fitting on the heater core. I could hear gurgling of coolant leaving the heater core back to the block.... So... 'assumed' the core was clear. Filled with 50/50 concentration ( from full strength jug) and took my time to hopefully not air lock. (the fitting on the thermostat housing actually looks higher than the temp sender at the back of the head), so I filled until a trickle of coolant exposed itself. Fired er up and waited for it to warm up. did so and then also vented again at the housing fitting, got just a little burp. Still NO heat, and I manually moved the lever on the coolant valve and that hose just did not heat. Day or two ago, I unplugged the vacuum line from that valve and moved the lever and put my finger over the port, it did hold vacuum. I also believe this valve is OPEN with NO vacuum. so at some point "someone" is gonna put a heater core in this thing... and I doubt it will be me. in regards to the mechanical temp gauge, I think it will be 'off' just a bit because of its location, I'll be monitoring it closely. It did show 180, but i expected it to hit 190+.... shut it down, next step will be check system cold for coolant level.

do you see the connector? Is it unplugged? I cannot recall if the sender grounds out when zero pressure, illuminating the light... but that may be the case.

just south of greensboro, almost center of the state.

i just do not see the correlation between the NSS and the vehicle running. The circuits on the wiring diagram just do not seem to go to the ECU..controlling the spark and the fuel. but it does control the starting circuit, the reverse lights, and the transmission controls. If you unplug the NSS at the connector under the hood, the starter would not engage, but I'd think if you unplugged with the engine running, it would continue to do so, but the transmission would only shift with the manual lever. temp 'could' have an effect on connections, as well as the CPS response and its output, and "maybe" circuits in the ignition module, etc cold here in the piedmont too.....

thanks. will be part of process when i change out thermostat and 'new' housing. did a motorad 'kit' and coming from evay seller (seller offer 50% off and free ship)

not sure i'll help much, but... have you tested fuel pressure on the rail during this no start condition? other basic tests... Instructions on site CPS output Spark? think the red herring here is the 'rolling' and then firing... IMHO, probably not NSS Stalling... Idle air controller, cleaning Throttle body and the IAC port the MAP sensor and vacuum line connections Possible leaking injector and 'flooding"? Have you tried crank on Wide Open Throttle to initiate the 'flood' start in ECU?? Yeah these no cranks can be PITA, my recent experience paralled could hear fuel pump run, but NO pressure at rail. its going now though.

thank you both, is it possible to visually see the blend door actuator in the vehicle, what needs to be removed to see it? when is vacuum applied to underhood water valve, on A/C selection, and this closes the water valve?? Once I get it inside on heated part of garage, I'll take my mity vac and apply some vacuum to water valve. Seems the defrost door works and panel door works, as air changes direction on position of the selector. am though leaning towards a core obstruction...

1989 Comanche with A/C 4.0 some help with possible diagnosis of heat in regards to any 'blend door' actuation i do believe i have very low flow through core after testing with heat gun... unsure if thermostat is stuck open (temp seems a bit low to me) will be replacing thermostat and housing with the later version for possible access point for ether a mechanical or electric temp gage, in some research, the control valve ( still closed system) is normally Open, allowing flow until AC is set, then closes off flow. assume this is with vacuum on the valve, and it has none in normal state. images or whatever of the blend door area location and maybe vacuum diagram of the control circuit thanks in advance.

anyone know what retains the collar inside of the column near the shifter?

watching my 89 is still connected, but the collar on the steering column is not connected to the housing for the lever, been that way a long time....

years go I bought a set of o-rings from local dealer, there's 12 in a set, don't have p/n presently IIRC 6 were different color from other 6 and i think slightly different in size. The flat OD is from being compressed inside the fuel rail or the head. I remember lubricating with fuel for insertion. If it was me, I'd probably just replace all the injectors and o-rings (which i think are with new injectors) ya gotta pull all of them anyway to remove rail for just one....

not a bit of help but WoW.... serious money i think on Bring a Trailer 'auction' assuming 4.0