llhat

yeah, i had to "buck it up" too but it sure is nice not manually shifting this auto transmission.... not sure what cost would be for a bench technician to test the TCU board components, some report age on solder joints is an issue, as well as failed transistor/resistors or other board level components. the speed sensor is also a 'testable' part...

think that may be the key there... though some of the tests we ran on wiring helped narrow it down I did have a problem with NSS, but replacement only got me back up lights in reverse there's some TCU on evay, but many are not sure "IF" they work... I got lucky on one source there. If you find a good source, share "after" you are pleased. it may not be a bad idea to have a spare there's a thread here about one fellow that found a bad resistor in his TCU and replaced it.

Sorta on the subject.. for the female side of the belt, who offers the sleeve that stiffens this side? is there a better alternative? (gray color)

with the fuse pulled you 'should' have been able to manually shift the transmission to 1, then move toward D (it skips 2nd and goes to 3rd) you will not have overdrive or TC lockup... I drove mine around for a good while manually shifting [it would try to start off in 3rd gear, then would 'go' when i moved the lever to 1] According to a recent thread just down the way, read it even though the title of the thread seems not related... The TPS may be a decent trial, but you 'can' test the output ( I think analog meter is preferred to see sweep and any dropoffs) otherwise look at an older thread i started..(it is about 7 pages back !) it had a LOT of tips from Ohm and tests to wiring.... Ultimately 'my' issue was the TCU, but there were a LOT of red herrings along the way... including the NSS... I do wish for you expedient repairs!

sounds like really good news. the shifting issue being fixed was an added benefit, but the inputs from the TPS are also 'part of the plan' for the TCU, mine was not as simple. good luck with the rest and enjoy the drive..

yes, charcoal canister for evap system... at some point in running cycle, there will be a vacuum signal to purge the vapors, believe controlled by a solenoid on the drivers side fender... not sure where a vacuum diagram is posted . I'd either cap them off or (preferred) fix them. one of course goes to top of fuel tank, there's probably two fittings on top of tank "Y"d together for trip to canister. yep, not having the map sensor detecting vacuum will do some funky things... sill have marginal concerns with liquid oil from exhaust... sure not condensation with carbon/oil mix ?

liquid oil or blue oil smoke? valid thought on getting those vacuum leaks stopped. this sounds like a long path, but navigable

heck i HAD to look it up... Load Sensing Valve thanks for the tips, I have not deleted, nor do i think i have issues with mine.... yet

Thank you for the link, yes that is the article March 1989 Hot Rod magazine... It is on page nine as indicated, scroll down the page to post by fiatslug87 I have retained to computer so i can enlarge the image to read again... this was about 8 years before i bought my 1989 MJ with 70k on it.

way back when I recall reading an article in Hot Rod Magazine where they built a stroker engine and installed a paxton blower this was probably in the 1989 time frame. anyone know the article?

dunno for sure, but be sure to protect those wire in the lower image (driver's side?) not going to be near mine soon to try to look to see what factory did would make sense to not have them routed through the brace as harness would need to be 'un threaded' if you removed the brace.

would that not show some weird readings when testing the TPS signal? Base voltage, regulated voltage, and if using analog, noting the 'sweep' of voltage? No change in TPS signal would seemingly confuse the hell out of the ECM and TCU.... glad you are whittling this down....

and one has to be concerned with the effect of heat and oil on the material... yeah there's room for tolerances.... wanted to give a starting point on a new, unused gasket.

i have not checked fitment on the new Stant Cap as of 'now' , it also was not installed on the new cap, but in the box. I do not know how the washer measurement compares to the NAPA part number. I've an 'old time' hardware store here, have not checked it for similar washer.

unknown, but.... Here's measurements from a NEW Stant part# 10085 unit OD 1.77" 45.2mm ID 1.05" 26.6mm THK 0.09" 2.4mm (taken with harbor freight digital caliper)

How about your fuel pump resistor, is it bypassed? When the start solenoid is engaged (behind battery under the plastic electrical cover (beside the coil), there is current directly placed to the fuel pump, bypassing the resistor on the drivers side fender (beside air box). its terminal is at the top of the start relay, you can power the pump from that wire by unplugging it and applying +12v to the wire.

in your prior post you showed a pic of the IAC pintle with the buildup of 'stuff' on it... you did not though IIRC state cleaning of the orifice in the throttle body, so yes, this could be at least another trial...

From Cruisers tips (rip) anyone tried a small bead of RTV on a 'new' cap surface, then the new gasket? figure small bead let cure, then the new gasket, should make the fitment tighter trying a Stant cap this time (mi usa) instead of Motorrad or what can be obtained at FLAPS (mostly china) Almost want to try an O ring but figure it may not want to center.

no, i filled from the stock tank on firewall, but had the hose connection i made for new temp gage on housing loose when the coolant started coming out, snugged that fitting... "may" be faster filling using housing connection, but probably messy and getting a dang funnel stabilized would be a PITA re-read my post above.... I bought a gallon of 'pure' antifreeze, and used an empty antifreeze jug to make a 50/50 mix. would this not make two gallons of 50/50?? It appeared I still had about a quart of 50/50 mix left when I was done after circulating, burping, and final fill.

thank you again ...

Really thank you for that table! It is of assistance, but I am a bit dense.... and my confidence has waned in the past couple years.... appears there's two lever positions where the water valve is closed, does this mean vacuum is absent at the pink line connecting it or there's vacuum applied? Logic sort of indicated the valve allows flow in a normal state, and closes when either in OFF or Vent, ? by application of vacuum..... Next time i am messing around will investigate with a vacuum gage ...........

recently drained my 89 with closed system by opening petcock on radiator, then R&R thermostat and housing. I bought a gallon of 'pure' antifreeze, and used an empty antifreeze jug to make a 50/50 mix. Filled system, and did 'burp' couple different ways, I had installed a later version of the thermostat housing with the port for a sensor, which i adapted for a mechanical temperature gage, it appeared this location was at least the same level as the temp sensor at back of cylinder head, so used it for air venting It appeared I still had about a quart of 50/50 mix left when I was done after circulating, burping, and final fill.

can anyone confirm IF this valve is Normally open (allowing coolant flow all the time) or Normally Closed, allowing coolant flow only with vacuum on the line? i've seen descriptions of 'both ways' but no confirmation... one post indicated this valve had vacuum applied when in A/C mode to cut off coolant flow to the heater core... what is truth?

Thank you Ohm! i interpret as 'normal driving'. recent battery cable change, i did not really note any ill effects, but continuing to put miles on it when possible.

think i'd take Ohm's hint and get some spark plug boot pliers and pull some spark plug wires.... Normally with disabling two adjacent cylinders via plugs and no change could indicated a head gasket issue... but think premature here... but a compression test would not hurt, just take time. Ohm, during the relearn process... drive it like you stole it or what?