llhat

many MJ stock with 3.54 gearing, what is your present front gearing?

this thread has a great image of an uninstalled front skid plate..(scroll down in the thread) as well as a couple of comments from Cruiser from the past on them... I will agree on getting in the way....

just noted this on another search, may be of help to you in regards to the studs, etc...

mine had rubber, it was above the skid plate... it was a steel skid plate that connected to frame rails, extended from below radiator on an angle downwards ending before the tie rods. I recall when it was on there always had to wipe oil off of it from changing the oil filter ( or seem to recall.. been some years now)

that ain't bad on hella... I used a Cibe set that were an over the counter GM application... had friend that was parts manager.. though no longer working, they are still mounted... need bulb assembly for them.... think bulb holder too...

Yeah.. hind site.. the front skid plate and that thick rubber shield below Radiator, etc also made that journey to the world of scrap after I removed it for something... second owner of this 89 since 1997, I may have it documented 'why' i took the front skid off.... maybe not...

"years" ago my 89 long bed developed a fuel leak.. guessed it.. corrosion on bottom, dirt trapped tween tank and metal skid... replaced the tank 'then' but did not reinstall the skid... it laid around... "sometime" on a scrap metal run, my dad evidently tossed it.. ( 2010-2012 era).. so it is gone, I've come to terms with it.

my late father had locals to make up an exhaust... from cat back.. think flowmaster muffler and then pipe exiting to your location, never saw any damage to end cap..... before he bent the snit out of that side of bumper basically destroying the end cap and that side of bumper ( but NO body damage).... he went to jeep dealer ( we had friends in parts department) and he bought me a new rear bumper that I have YET to install... not even taken it out of package.... i think it was a chrome version... know also bought a new front chrome bumper also... this has now to be about 20 years or so... procrastination... and snitty faded grey paint, so why ??

and still occurring... this afternoon, 'ok' but this morning 502 gateway errors.

increase extension of tip out of body line.... just increase distance... those end caps are not 'that' plentiful to melt away

leaning on air in system... is my guess mine did it when cold, I suctioned some fluid off and put some lucas PS treat in it.. seemed to have helped... this was before a pressure line replacement by shop when doing other work, has not done it since... there was a line leaking.... so maybe allowing air into system? had similar issue on a dodge 3500 cummins, suctioned out fluid multiple times and replaced to effect a fluid change over time.. helped it a bunch... was some fancy arsed $$ fluid also...

cannot remember the brand, but did use some LED bulbs for backup... or tried... I had trouble with fitment in the socket, seemed like the pins were too shallow to engage, you just could not twist in the bulb to lock it... the solder "point" on the end of the bulb seemed like the place to modify, ruined one bulb trying that tactic... this was last fall, just cannot remember what I finally did... I was also repairing the housing from a broken tab holding the clip nut on the tailgate side of the housing... I made an entire metal clip to sandwich the plastic and allow the screw to bite... so far so good on that.... was cheeper than a housing!!! some others applaud the illumination difference

and still sluggish as times and also get the 502 screen at times...

?? diagnosis ?? poor connection of the turn signal flasher in the body of the fuse block ??

is your formed tube leaking or something with the rubber lines? If tubing is OK, remove, cut the compressed ferrule acting as a hose clamp and use a clamp to reinstall the hoses.

I try to check the housing surface for 'flat'... usually take a sheet of emery paper and a known flat surface and lightly lap it 200 to 320 grit is 'ok' have even used a flat file lightly also... I can't recall, but if the housing bolts extend into the water passage, may need a touch of sealant...

could the 'chirp' be the belt contaminated with coolant?... but if you've seen the drip, then the w p seal is probably gone. been too many years since I've done mine... I'll let someone else chime in... good luck.

no 100% sure but think the XJ tunnel may have a different contour than the MJ tunnel... Others can set me straight if wrong...

Double vacuum? where's the engine block to get its air? i also think these engines are a bit temperamental when vacuum leaks are introduced.

not sure a catch can on rear tube would assist... vacuum flows from the orifice and to intake manifold... this tube must be kept clear for the CCV to work. The front tube and fitting on the valve cover 'should' have negative pressure, supplying clean air from air box to engine. When the 'flow' is disturbed by poor performance of the rear orifice and by excessive crankcase pressure, then the engine pushed air into the airbox, along with oil vapor in suspension where it accumulates on the filter. this side is where most put the catch can.... but as spoken, not a lot of room.. and the appropriate size hose does not conform well to the limited space. the later design is just a bit better, with a larger hose on the rear and a straight shot to the HO airbox... I think the large rear HO hose would be an improvement, but 'I' have yet to try it... my 89 has the case valve cover, I think it looks better than the later stamped steel... but that stamped steel valve cover has its advantages for certain... ( mainly IMHO) the larger rear hose

bought a new stant brand filler cap from ebay, while still new and un-used, put a very thin bead of red silicone between the bottom of the cap suface and the top of the gasket and allowed to cure, in effect making the gasket thicker... was very difficult to tighten up also thinking i would break it... been 'ok' for a few thousand miles now, but do not know if long term solution for this... maybe one day the later valve cover... but Felpro VC gasket not leaking...

a captive nut on this end, should have a regular bolt extending thru the bushings and arm the captive nut wedges against an internal cavity and allows manipulation of the bolt without a wrench needed on the nut side.

couple links may help

will reflect on past year's experience... it is a LONG story, so expect to get glassy eyed... had diagnosed a pump failure last year, had a LOT of gas in tank and I could no longer move the vehicle to my lift... did NOT want to do this in the grass on my back.... local shop was working on an 88 MJ... I asked if they wanted to work on another, so had it towed for them to fix it short story... they installed a new pump-sender assembly, think sourced from Advance (where they get a lot of parts) they said first receipt came in as a dead soldier ... but replacement worked fine... In the interim they said starter was also bad ( oil soaked)... and cables were pretty rotten... told em to 'fix it'... got the call day or two later.. ( think entire experience was like 3 weeks)... Paid em, went on my way... got home, found no new battery cables, so I did that.... yep... badly needed, but i digress... I put some miles on it after some other work.. I had noted a really slow response on fuel level gage, had kept up with miles... and just in general... after 200 miles I would get fuel... onward... Few months ago, filled it up, drove home and put in garage.. next day, found big puddle under... gasoline ( smelled before looking)... but it had stopped... got vehicle out after airing out the garage, and could not see it leak... drove it my next 200+ miles and filled again, this time about 15 miles from home, so figured it HAD to use about a gallon of fuel... which is what i think had leaked out the first time parked on concrete driveway... got out and saw the drips.. gas again... rolled under from passenger side and area around the lock ring was wet and could see seepage, but was unsure IF lock ring or the electrical pass-thru... went back to shop for them to investigate... they just did not give me the 'goody goody' feel in my gut, but needed to try... ( i think they were a bit pissed that I had a different shop to do DIFFERENT work ( and not even on fuel system) well........ this time took so much longer for them to touch it........... and right at 4 weeks got the call it was ready..basically the entire month of October.... I arrived 'ready' for either the BIG bill, or a fight.... I was absolutely surprised at the response... He handed me a bill for like 38 bux... cost of the gasoline... asked what it was... he showed me the old o-ring.. it had torn removing, but.. the rubber had cracked in the internal perimeter and had hardened up.. He said he sourced new one from different source, showed me the NAPA box... I told him was not expecting to get it for nothing and tried to pay him, but he kicked any $$ back my way... this was the big surprise... but now in short... unsure of some of the quality of these o-ring seals... IF I knew the 'dash' number of them would try to source a "VITON" seal from McMaster... the next time... Let's see how long this one lasts...

there's a film of oil inside the dipstick tube in one of the curves on its way down to the crankcase.... only advice... check it cold after sitting overnight, even then unsure what will happen. I don't think i would advise trying to stick something down the empty tube to try an clean the ID, figure whatever used would wind up in the oil pan. Can't remember just how difficult removal of the tube is... maybe someone else has some advice.