skidoo_j

What you have pictured is the transfercase. If you think it's leaking at that cone connection it's not too complicated, however it will take a bit of time. Basic Parts needed: RTV silicone New output shaft seal Basic directions: You will remove rear drive shaft at the diff by removing the 4 bolts. Remove the slip yoke. remove the rear output seal (somtimes they have to be smashed inward) using a pair of lock ring pliers remove the two lock rings on the shaft unbolt nose clean surfaces apply rtv install nose install lock rings install new tail seal with seal driver (a free loaner tool at autozone, not necessary but makes it easier because if you tweak it you get another.) check fluid level it should be just pouring out of the top plug that's visible in your pic. Lock ring pliers are different then snap ring. if you don't want to spend an hour cussing and swearing get a set of lisle lock ring pliers i just got mine yesterday for $14. It's about a 30 minute job once you're there if you have the right tools.

From my memory what people have done is offset the driverside so that the fill door clears. There were some pics on here of a member who had the bushwackers installed and he moved the driverside back about 1". it didn't look too bad unless you looked at both sides at the same time side by side and you'd notice.

It is possible your output shaft is a 23 spline. The transition was 89/90 as they changed over to the ax15 manual. It really depends on the build date as they used up the transfercases that were 21 spline on the aw4. Some references claim the aw4 didn't go to 23 until 91 when the ho motor arrived. As i was told the only way to find out for sure it to pull it apart and count, then measure. regarding a newer aw4, my guess is you'd be able to transfer electronics over. Looking at parts for a rebuild i don't see very many differences other than the sensors.

Eagle do you think JB conversion's Partial rebuild kit is worth 200 vs the G2 kit? the np231 bearings and seals

1. JB Conversions 2. Dunno 3. Because nobody wants to admit that a competitor did it first/better 4. JB Conversions they were my top company as they do seem to be the only one not getting everything from the same company.

Who would have thought such a product would be such a pain in the @$$ to get honest answers. It seems every manufacture out there sells one with their name on it, problem is they all look the same and it's been mentioned they come with identical directions with different logos. So I question it. Lets see the following companies "make" and SYE for a 231. Omix Ada Advanced Adapters Rugged Ridge JbConversion Teraflex balistic offroad tom woods ... ... So omix ada and rugged ridge are the same company. And both ship in a white box with the same part number. Where it gets confusing is Advanced adapters whose regarded so highly is shipping them in the same boxes. When i called them they said oh RR copied ours, and we're to a higher standard, but would not out right say we get them from the same place now. Infact many forums and people who have installed all three claim they're identical castings, identical shafts and state advanced adapters makes them for omix. Teraflex responded or RR copied ours we were the first. But theirs also ships in this box and looks identical. And we all source from the best priced places. Then said "watch out for companies that claim to seal their aluminum casts" Jbconversion claims ours is the same since 1994. Everyones been copied and look close but ours is the original and we've not changed at all. Tom woods is a hack and tap. SO the questions: WHO CREATED THE SYE FIRST? WHO ACTUALLY MAKES THE SYE KITS BEING SOLD? WHY DOES EVERY MANUFACTURE CLAIM THEY INVENTED IT? WHAT SYE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND?

Just for reference. at start I sit at 40 and stay at 40 for 10 minutes or so while warm up and easy drive until coolant reaches temp. then i'll get to 60 once running. When back to idle when hot I'm' at 20 psi. Honestly I don't know if mine has issues or not it's kinda always been a question in my mind. When i was using a fram filter it would take a 2-3 minutes at idle for pressure to drop below 40. I'm now using napa gold with ams oil for the last 4 oil changes and once oils hot i drop to 20 seconds after i get down to 800 rpm.

http://medford.craigslist.org/cto/3825422101.html brown color long bed. looks pretty clean has a nice headache rack with bed rails. I'd go get it at least give it a chance but i don't like the long bed. seems like a good guy trying to sell it. http://medford.craigslist.org/cto/3813392801.html

correct. there is a small pin that holds the cross shaft in place. use a drift to get it out. It's advised to use a new pin when reassemble.

here's the 2007 "release " of the elocker with 4 pinion, http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@auto/documents/content/ct_128763.pdf

Sure looks like eaton owns detroit http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Automotive/AutomotiveAftermarket/Differentials/PCT_221432 and they list the true trac as theirs too as well as some neat looking oem only options... http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Automotive/DifferentialsLockingDifferentials/index.htm their aftermarket stuff http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Automotive/AutomotiveAftermarket/Differentials/index.htm and the elocker is eaton so my assumption is they're all made in the same place. the elocker true trac and detroit.

Yup. I'm looking for street ability. The truetrac is probably the best traction device for on street and any scenario that all 4 wheels stay in contact with some ground surface. I have gotten to where I do not like the auto lockers. Granted I've read where people say a detroit is more transparent and has fewer side effects then the lock right. The lock right now causes tons of backlash, tons of added axle wrap, and causes bucking when not under power. For my driving style my options are f/r e-lockers or front elocker with true trac rear. The true trac saves $$ for the rear has excellent on/off road characteristics. Increases traction in snow whereas a locked or spooled rear end in the snow can be much worse then driving open. So if e lockers front and rear I'd be driving open in the snow and lock when stuck for best handling. My driveway is 25-30% grade and is 175 feet long with a turn, for some reason the county required it to be paved, so when it's even slightly slick i barely make it up the driveway 10 feet before i start to slide sideways. That's with noslip front and lock right rear It's off topic so back to the main ??? Does anyone know if the 2013 elocker has two cross shafts or is it still a single like our stock carriers?

Eaton redesigned the elocker for the dana 30 and 35 in late 2008/9, does anyone know if they ever redesigned the one for the D44? Every internet search I can find pulls up people trash talking the elocker from pre-2010. The redesign changed the number of pins and cross shafts. There are mentions they had planned to update the d44 design to match the d30, but again nothing i've found stating they ever changed it to have 4 spiders. and the 1/4 turn engagement rather than 1/2 to full turn I'm planning to call them or 4wd.com tuesday, I just thought maybe someone already knew. I'm getting closer to having the monies to pick up a select locker for the d44 so i can get rid of the lock right. Currently I'm debating between the Elocker or the true trac. Beings they are both made by eaton I'm thinking they're pretty equal in quality and longevity. I already know about the disadvantage of the bearing ramp engagement in the elocker when rocking a vehicle back and forth and it disengaging briefly. And am not looking for "get an ARB" type comments as I do not want to run pneumatics, and ox is out for cable reasons. And I know that the true trac may require brake bias if a tire is in air or on ice.

I was looking into the 6 gear planetary too. But it seems it was only on some models of the 231d. If i were still living near the pick and pulls i'd just go split them open at the Jy until I found one. Any suggestions on specific years they were in? did you retain the 4x4 light some how? I couldn't feel a spot for the 4x4 switch above the selector.

A good DIY that I just came across. I wish I'd found it along time ago. It's amazing that just $5 will solve such an irritating issue of the wipers going off the windshield every other rotation with a loud thwack.

Get one of these, install it and give us a good review. http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm

I pretty much bathe daily in tecnu and fels naptha soap. It's like I have it continuously. I started getting it in December when I had an oak tree fall in a store after I cut up the tree. I have no had it to the extremes you have, but the rash seems to play musical body parts for me. What really sucks is while riding my dirt bike in the woods i find myself constantly looking at the plants i'm riding through going oh $#!& that's poison oak, don't fall don't fall. And of course it seems when i do do something stupid i'm in or near a batch of poison oak.

I've got an auto locker in the front so i end up with 3x4 and it's hops very badly and i'm afraid it may cause even more damage running it that way.

I"m looking to acquire a terra 2 lo for the comanche. It's a cheaper alternative for my intended purpose, however i was wondering if anyone on here is running one? Did you upgrade anything else while in there? Hate or love it? Problems? Did you have issues with it popping out of gear or did you just buy the novak shift lever? Did you use their lever style one or the "new" cable shift? Anyone using the cable shift? Reviews? http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm I was debating on a slip yoke eliminator at the same time, but i'm only SOA so i don't think it's needed. Plus I don't want to cut and turn the rear axle mounts and i don't think a double double cardan is advisable on the rear with such a long shaft. Wedges are out of the picture in my opinion as I'd actually like a lower lift. I'd love to have found a decent set of spring under that would have lifted me 4" and been MT prior to my SOA with the D44 and MT springs.

I had to go get new seat covers, and am looking into painting this summer for the same reason, well it's a bigger push.

Anyone have info on the wedge in this picture? Mine are tweaked bad and I havn't been able to locate any to buy.

I've used it with good results. I liked using it in the tank with my dirt bike as it seemed to keep it burning cleaner. But it's now over $10 for the pint can in my area and I'm cheap. I swear i bought this stuff 6 months ago and paid only $5 for the pint. If you're planning to run like a tuff truck competition and wanting the ooooh he's on fire or his motor is blown effect sucking this stuff through the vacuum lines is great about 10 minutes before you're to pull up to the line. It makes for great stage presence.

This is from a craigslist ad that I emailed myself for reference he had the kit listed for 1200 installed: Jeep 4.0L Supercharger kit and installationDate: 2013-03-23, 12:52PM Complete kit including installation to supercharge 90-98 Jeep wrangler, Cherokee and Grand Cherokee OBDI and early OBDII 4.0L engines. This kit works best for pre '99 engines as the mapping system can be fooled easily by replacing the stock 19# injectors with 30# injectors for the increased fuel required for the 5-6 pounds of boost this system produces. Fits completely underhood on wrangler and grand's but some trimming of hood undersupport and small bubble or cheasy plastic hood scoop is required for the Cherokees. Extensively tested and found to be a reliable increase in horsepower though does come with a few drawbacks - (1) you will loose your Air conditioning system and cruise control as the charger fits in place of the old AC unit. (2) replacing spark plugs in the future will become time consuming as the charger covers 4 of them. (3) Increased tread wear of the tires. Like Jack in the Box - these kits are made to order. Currently I do have one complete kit in stock. Included in the sale of basic kit (non intercooled) : - Reconditioned Eaton M90 (Ford Thunderbird) Supercharger - SC mounting plate (stock AC mount utilized) - Rear throttle body inlet pipe and cone filter - Intake manifold pressure piping (non intercooled) - NGK spark plugs, cap, rotor, and plug wires for a full ignition tune up. - remanned 30# fuel injectors - proper length serpentine belt - full installation and tuning for a turn key upgrade. For the DIY 'ers I will sell the mounting kit and/or the pieces individually. Call David at 541-206-7717 with your ?'s and to schedule an installation appointment.

I'm still debating if i want it.... But just incase someone closer can get it http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/3756377257.html

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