Wildman

Dirty is right......"It's shift on the fly" Mine works that way, and no problems, some time's I got to play with it, double clutch, but I can go from 2wd right into 4wd, while in 2nd gear and moving. Do Not drive on dry payment with it in 4wd, you will distroy the transfer case, I hope your playing around with it, you did not do this, well a little wouldn't hurt, but not at high speeds, other wise you will not have any 4wd. You keep saying the light saids it's in part time, forget the light, it has nothing to do with being in 4wd, I got a '89 that the switch is bad, I took the wire off it cause it always lit up, about a $35 part to replace, or the cheep way, take the wire off :roll: Any good jolt/jar could throw off the linkage on the transfer case, I would still check this out, and adjust it. Also, while your under there, check the transmission mount on the cross member, see if the mount is tore up, out of shape, or loose, this could cause the linkage to be out of synk. Well......that answers a few of your questions, Yea most of them, could also be the reason it feels like it's draging. Yea, you don't need the E-brake on when your driving. I guest what your trying to say about the not getting stuck, that's a whole another matter. It has to do with the limited slip diff, applying the brakes help "lock" the spinning wheel to shift the "traction" over to the other wheel. I'm not going to get into that any deeper, just skim over it. The vacuum reserve bottle is for the hearter controll, and cruse controll, if you have that, the only time vacuum is needed on the 4wd is to "switch" on the dash light, and to "shift" the cad on the front axle, the 4wd is a manual operation, your 4wd will work with NO vacuum, if you locked the front cad disconnect. From '91+ they did away with the front cad, and went to solid axle shaft, so the front axle is always locked, and you still shift manually into 4wd. Your thinking, or were told that the vacuum shifts to 4wd, but it don't. It's done manually. So, check the trans mount, check the linkage, check your vacuum lines, and go thru every thing twice, and keep the E-brake off, and don't drive on hard dry pavement with the 4wd on, and this might get you up and running :D And yes, that's easyer to read :D

So.....Jeepinjay.......you think you got your $500 worth???

It's a little confusing reading your post.......but I'll try - First off, your '88 will be a Command-Track (NP 231) Part-time 4wd, unless some one change it out to a NP 242. The only way will will be in 4wd all of the time is if you pull the transfer case lever back to 4wd high, unless the linkage is messed up, and not setting into the correct position in the trans case. The 4x4 bottle you talk about, is that the Black "ball" or long "football" behind the front bumper, on the pass side??? That's the vacuum reserve for the heater controlls, nothing to do with the 4wd. There is a vacuum switch on the drivers side of the trans case that switchs the cad on the D30, when you pull the trans case lever. also turn on the light on the dash. If your vacuum lines are in the wrong place, that would cause the light to be on. If you "locked" the cad in the shaft lock postition, that still would not make you have 4wd all of the time. Check ALL of the vacuum line under the truck, and the steel lines where the plastic lines plug in, you might have a leak some where. Here's a link for the FSM you want to look under the 1988 XJ (2nd from the bottom) for areas that you need to address, the XJ and the MJ are about the same for the drive train info. http://www.rol.ac.psiweb.com/jeep/ If you had a accident, good chance the linkage got messed up on the transfer case, and needs readjusting. The FSM or your Haynes book will walk you thru the process to adjust this linkage. Your brakes squeaks??? has the truck been sitting for any amount of time?? you could just have some rust on the rotors that need to be worn off. Some thing burning when your sitting at a light.......oh, boy, could be alot of things.......belt rubbing, oil burning off the exhaust???? Try to brake down your problems in each paragraph, like I did above, make is easyer for us to read :D

I've see rebuild 4.0 going around $1100 plus. Jasper's reman engines about $1600 plus. Good used low milage 4.0 engines around $350-$450. Rusted out XJ's with good engine, low milage $200-$500. Humm........I'll take the last one, and the rest of the parts with the whole truck. I would put a good use engine in before I would spent the $$ for a rebuild. But that's just my opinion. If your building a show truck, diffrent story.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carco ... ttype,1696 http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList ... rake+Cable I would go with Rockauto first, there all listed there, both for the swb and lwb. . I'm thinking some one did go this route, but I've never seen any pictures of the set up for a Hand brake.

Cozee made me remenber a trick I've see :D You take a regular hair dryer (wouldn't get hot enought to burn the paint) and heat up the dent (like in a door panel / fender) then while it's still warm, you take a can of compressed CO2 (Duster sold at an office supply) and spray the air over the warm metal, and the dent will pop right out :brows: Sounds crazy.......yea, here watch the video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=miNykNl-0NM :nuts: But it works

No, your head lights will work correct, it's a added "convience" so when the truck passes you, you can let him know it's OK to pull in front of you when your headlights are not on, from the "pull" switch. Your head light will work the same as they should, being fed thru the relay, in the engine bay box, direct hot all the time. I don't think this was added until '88 or '89??? Any one know??

We can't all be here all of the time, it would be nice, but I got to work my day job to pay for the internet connection......that is past due now......I think??? Anyway, Relax, It's not that hard, your reading too much, this has got to be the "best" topic subject on this that was ever posted here, so take your time, read it thru, Eagle posted how to blead the brakes with the hight valve in place, so you can understand the whole system. Read this - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight= Then think about what you want to do, and what most of us do, is delet the rear hight valve, and run a single line to the rear brakes, and then just cap, or what I've done, use a "t" up front from the nose port to the front under side port and done, easy right?? :D But.......Don't forget to adjust your rear shoes first, before you start bleading, and follow the steps that are mention in the post.

Assuming your "re-assemblying" the truck?? First check the fuse box, IIRC there is a 7.5 amp fuse for the back-up lights in the box. If it an automatic, you need to check the netural safty switch, if it a manual, there is a back up switch on the drivers side of a BA10 with 2 wires. If that all falles, then you need to check the rear connector on the driver side just inside the rear bumber, and then to the rear light them selfs.

NO it not a paper gasket, It's a Rubber O-ring, about 3 inch in dim, fits between the tank/sending unit disk and the lock ring. It's not a fuel pump gasket, it the sending unit O-ring that your looking for.

Picture of the BA10 drain/fill plugs - Top Figure - I use a "suction gun" about $8 and makes is easy to fill, from the top is also easy, if you want to take every thing apart :dunno: IIRC it takes 2.5 quarts of W80/90 oil to fill the BA10. And Yes, the BA10 is a "Whiner" in revese :teehee:

No, the OEM was a cork gasket, So that was replace before. With 220K on the clock.........Yes, and you should change the Timing Cover gasket and seal which is behind the water pump to help with your oil leaks. Also if you going that far.......that would be the time to tackle the oil pan gasket and the rear main seal. And if your in that far, change the Thermostate and gasket. If you take the 6-8 screws out of the grill, every thing is right there, all accessed from the front and easy to work on ;) Here's a link for up grading the raditor if you go that far - http://www.dirtdevils.org/XJRadiatorUpgrade.htm

Here, check out this site, there is also the Cam Position Sensor located in the bottom of the distributor that will kill spark. And as sugested, you might want to trace down each wire to find the problem. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm CPS info is about half way down the page.

Your Welcome :D No, I don't think the dealer will have that rubber bumper, but if you go to the hardware store, look for bumpers that will be for sliding glass doors, like patio doors, I've seen that type bumper on some door units.

Just for thought - The '88 I DD, when I got it 1-1/2 years ago, with 81K on the clock, it leaked oil in every direction, from every where :eek: My thought was this, the truck is 20 years old, the seals have got to be dry rotted, worn out and I started on the front, and went thru every thing, and replaced every seal on the thing, one of my worst oil leaks was a "slice" in the oil pan, so - new oil pan, and rubber gasket. All axle seals, input/output shafts on the trans and transfer case, also I replaced the axle bearings front and rear, and now, NO oil leaks. I know this is extreme, you might have one bad seal causing your problem, but I've read here many times "changed this seal, still leaking", so I just went full bore and did everything at once. Other things were checked and replaced in the process also. The best thing is to "degrease" your underside, and then check where the worst leak is coming from and work from there, or go extreme and ......Well, read above :D As far as your boiling over, I would guest the radiator is partitaly pulged, the thermostat would cause it to run Hot all of the time, again, it's 20 years old, look close at the bottom of the fins to see any corrosion. The pressure bottle /cap could be bad also.

Picture time :popcorn: E-Brake assembly- Close up from bottom - Return Spring- almost the same spring as the clutch pedal return spring- Image Not Found And one with the pedel down, from the front- Enjoy, like not real action shots there :popcorn:

I can get some pictures for you tonight, I have a E-brake assembily out of an MJ so pictures will not be a problem. Also the spring at the equalizer helps pulls the pedal / cable back, you might also want to check if the front E-cable is working properly and not bound up with rust as it lays on the drivers side floor and runs thru the back of the cab.

Did you check the Ballast Resistor that's on the left front fender?? Has a Orange w/black tracer wire, you can use a jumper between the two connectors to check if it's working or not. This was installed on '88 + vehicles and a very common cause of the fuel pump not running, or shuting off. Oh.....and Welcome to the ComancheClub :waving: Here......found a picture of it -

This rule applys to private own tanks also, just went thru it with my oxygen tank, and it cost me $$$ I'm thinking that the last "5 year" period was a star (*) Each mark on the top of the tank represent each 5 year period. I changed gas supplyers and all of there tanks are painted, with owner tanks having a "white" band painted at the top :dunno:

Naw......I don't count the XJ's there not real trucks like the MJ's :D Good for parts thought :brows:

Just wondering if you check the blower motor??? Is that working or causing the short?? Read your PM, I'll bring down a extra heater box and blower motor :D

Yea..... Too bad the guy distroyed a MJ to make that thing :cry: Could be the reason he spelled Comanche wrong :nuts:

:agree: Try this page, there are other pages out there for your solution- http://www.dirtdevils.org/XJNutralSwitch.htm Even though is it used on the XJ, it is the same switch as on the MJ :D

That's the '86 X your looking at, NO parts are coming off that one. That's a project MJ that I traveled 650 miles round trip to get back here ;) Yes, a couple of MJ's and XJ's have gone for parts supply, For my projects and other's :brows: Out of the 6 I have now, 5 will be rolling stock......some day.....The day job keeps pushing me back :cry: The '89 Red one in the foreground is one I've gone thru, needs some sheet metal and paint yet, and is the DD.

Hey, you can never have to many MJ's :D I was up to 8 MJ's but 2 got turned into parts, now I only have 6 :cry: With 2 of them on the road. This is when 5 were at one location- But I've looked at a couple this summer, just have not bought any lately. After this weekend, they will all be at the new shop, I'll have to up-date this picture :D