Wildman

I know what picture your talking about, I spent 1/2 hour, going back 3 year trying to find it :hmm: It showed a mock up of the MJ with all the brake line drawn in. I found this one - It was in the one link I posted. :agree: with the above statement, replace the steel line all the way back. The brake lines tend to rot out behind the gas tank, where you can't see them, don't mater if you in the rust belt or the sun belt, the soft lines are still 20 year old rubber, and if there not dry rotted now, it wouldn't be long before there gone. Your running new lines, you need to bled the system, so why not just replace everything once and enjoy the ride (and the stopping) I need to add something to what Eagle wrote, Yes, there is a "T" on the axle, from the soft line to the axle, to both wheels. But, there is also a "T" fitting up in the frame where the height sensing valve line, and the main line are connected together, leading to the soft line on the axle. When I do my "conversions" I use this T fitting up front at the Distribution valve, and tie the lower front port and the front nose port together, to one line to the rear. I know, you can cut a bolt down and fit it into the lower front port, but I just find this easier to do :hmm:

Some reading materials for you - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4917

The brackets should look like this one, and may even have the bumper mounts welded to them, and a OEM should have a smaller angle piece that goes to the frame bulk head piece. http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bi ... s&catid=95 If you notice the price at TC, your getting a pretty good deal :roll:

:idea: Dang..........you just remind me of that trick :D Now to try to get a broken off stud for the water pump on my 351W :yes: Plus.......the heat from welding the nut on would help big time. Thanks Jeepco :clapping:

If I'm reading your question correctly, when you put the transfer case into 4w high, the front don't engage, and in 4w low, you have nothing??? I don't think there a problem with the clutch, it sounds like a problem with the disconnect in the front axle (D30) which would be the first thing to check, or, at worst, theres a problem with the X-case, like the chain is stretched. You said when you put the X-case in 4wd, you can not turn the front drive shaft by hand, then the X-case might be OK. Still, pull the vacuum disconnect off the front axle, and you can do a vacuum check on it, or, just lock the shifting fork over to the drivers side, and slip the lock ring over, and leave it there, and then check the front axle for engagement. You don't need to go to the mud for this, you can jack the front end up, on jack stands, and turn the wheels by hand.

I hope you meant that you have a '88 with a 2.5 :hmm: OK.......it's an '88, the original cables??? There 21 years old. Get new cables, Don't use the bolt on cable ends, there nothing but trouble, The positive with the lead (pigtail) for the starter relay (what your saying - "the main connection from the electrical system to battery is not at the starter" ) Also replace the negative cable, and your more that likely to find the ground cable is bad, or the connection to the block is loose, or corroded. If the fuseable link were bad, you wouldn't have any start at all. Both cable are going to cost about $26 and should solve your starting/running problems. Oh, and get some dielectric grease, and coat all the connections with it.

:banana: Man.........it's so much better having the whole truck when your doing a swap job, you never know when your missing something so small, like the X-case shifter, and then you got to go hunting for the part. Plus, what you don't use, I'm sure someone else here could use.......and you'll still get a couple bucks for all the scrap thats worthless :brows:

The X trim package was only used for the 1986 year. It was mid grade trim package - Custom (low end trim) X Sport or XL XLS (max end trim) It should have chrome grill and chrome bumpers, at least my X has that :D Also, you'll only find LWB MJ's in the '86 year. The real problem will be the engine, if it a 2.5 (4 cylinder) your good, if it the 2.8 (6 cylinder) you got problems from the get go :(

:agree: Plus........you can find them in the "Tow Package" :D Just look for the OEM trailer hitch :brows:

If you take the line off, a good parts store might be able to match up a line that will work. The problem with AC is, it is such a "specialist" of an item, that the only way to get parts and repairs are thru a special AC shop. It's one of the items, like rebuilding auto trannys that sometimes, in the long run, its cheaper to have a shop do the repairs and supply the parts.

crabbing? I know the term "Dogleg".......guest its the same :hmm: If you measure the distance from the backing plate to the springs, that would give you center from side to side. The leafs are offset from front to back about 1" with the "longer" length to the rear, in other words, the leafs "could" be installed backwards and cause dogleg to the rear axle. When ever you change the axle / springs / drive shaft.......you should install brand new U-joint, because the U's find a "fixed" running position, and when you change something major, they will run at a slight different angle, and will cause the whining that you wrote about. Yea, thats about it :D

The glass should be the same.......the only difference is the regulator. I dug up a couple "old" topics on this, the 2nd one give you some info on removal of the glass bolt. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15549&hilit=glass+replacement viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7245&hilit=door+glass here's one article that I found that just might get you thru what your doing......and with pictures :yes: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Bod ... or_Fix.htm

There is no adjustment to the hydraulic clutch setup. As far as inspection, the disk is behind the pressure plate, and the only way to check the clutch disk itself, is to remove the presser plate, which involves removing the tranny :headpop: A old quick trick to see if your clutch is slipping........this would give you an idea on if the disk is in fact worn down........get up and going about 20mph, in 2nd gear, and jump right to 4th gear, if the truck bogged down, or stalls.......you clutch plate is in good shape, if the truck don't, the clutch is slipping and soon to go south. If the hydraulic system is in good shape........you should not be loosing any fluid at all, oh, maybe a teaspoon a year, check the interior fire wall, above the fuse box, and Hope it's dry. Check the fluid line to see if any fluid is "sweeting" on the steel line, and of course, the slave could be leaking :roll: The other problem could be the fluid line, if is original, and ..........20 years old, the rubber brakes down over time and swells up, internally, some times you can feel a "bubble" on the line, and this can cause a pressure blockage, as in returning fluid to the master, and cause problems. If your clutch passes the quick check, I would inspect the master for leaks, and spent the $18 for a new fluid line, and replace that for sure, and then bleed the system. And as per Eagle's suggestion, use DOT 5 brake fluid for refilling the system.

Are you talking about the one piece rear glass??? The glass is retained with the rubber molding, the glass is sealed in the rubber molding, and the molding is urethane to the body flange. The urethane has to be cut for removal. In the book (M.R. 278) it saids with the proper prep, the window can be re-installed. If you need, I can scan the 7 pages that will give you the step-by-step for the window removal, and install, just let me know, you know the addie :D

I'll agree with not running the pump dry. I've used a bucket of water to check pumps, lot safer that an open bucket of gas, just don't drop the whole pump into the bucket of water, keep the wires and terminals out of the water. The wire that is used for the pump is not like normal off the shelf auto wire, but I'm sure that a good auto parts house would have a wire thats make for the in tank fuel pump.

I would 2nd the air bags as helper springs, with you towing a boat, the advantage of the air bags is you can increase the air pressure with the tow load, and when your done towing, air down the bags to give you a more comfort ride. http://www.autoanything.com/brands/102A487.aspx Plus some of the "add" on helper springs don't work that will, and put alot of added stress on your 20 year old tired leafs :eek: I've seen leafs broken from helpers, and seen help springs also break. The cost of the air bags are under $90, with out the OBA system, and the advantage is you can take them off and transfer them to another MJ if your replace your current one.

The ground for the fuel pump and sender is also the same ground for the tail lights, it's located behind the left (drivers side) tail light, pull the tail light, you will see a wire and screw into the sheet metal. Pull the screw out, scrap some paint, and install a larger screw with a good dope of dielectric grease. For the wire to burn off the insulation, it really had to get hot, if there is any way you can check the resistance on the fuel pump, try to check that. Did by chance you use the Carter # P74155 as a replacement pump??? That is if you had the Bosch pump as OEM. Also, check under the hood, left front corner, behind the air box and see if you have this Ballast Resistor- That was added in '88 or '89+ to use full voltage at start up, and then cut the voltage down for the pump to run "cooler" with less voltage input.

It calls for SAE 75W-90 GL-5 gear lub, 4.9 pints for 4wd and 5.2 pints for 2wd. If your up north, use the synthetic, it will shift easier in the cold weather. This is also the same gear lub for the axles.

53k original miles, d44, metric ton.............NICE Yea, and a decent price too :brows: I think when I seen it, it was at 25'ish, thought it would go even higher, O'well.......I'll stick to my rust buckets :headpop:

Yea, if your swapping a Renix era ('87-'90) with the MJ in the link, your all set to go :yes: If you already have the D30 and D35 with 3.55 gears, thats all good too. You just need to swap over the engine/tranny/X-case, and reuse the front drive shaft, and have your rear drive shaft shorten. The wiring and cooling are all the same. The mechanical part in not all that hard. The best thing is to read topics here, and on other links, like this one - http://www.lunghd.com/ , and ask any questions that come up, and someone will jump in and get ya thru it :D If you have any friends that have the equipment and the experience of swapping engines, thats even better, have them help you, and it will be a smooth sailing experience for you :D I never did an engine swap until about 15 years ago, but I had some one with the experience that show me what to do, and that was on a Ford van (which is about the worst engine swap you can do :ack: ) now, I do them myself, bought the right equipment and have done 5-6 of them, plus pulled a few out of rust buckets. I'm just starting a engine swap on another Ford van too :nuts: Thats this weeks project. With a few pieces of equipment, and a good set of wrenches, and doing some research, you shouldn't have any problems.

That the one I seen about a month ago........couldn't remember where I seen it :doh: Thanks for posting that up........I was thinking the same thing :D

That MJ in the link is priced very good, But........one thing that's not mentioned is the mileage on the MJ in the add........that would be my first question. I buy MJ's all the time for the $300-400 range, but most have the uni-frames rotted out :( An MJ at that price is worth it, there are other parts that can be re-used too. If the drive train is all in good shape, engine, tranny, transfer case, and you can start it, drive it and check it out, then the best thing is to pull the entire drive train (all 3 items connected) while it out, go thru it, check / replace all the input/output seals, change the RMS and pan gasket, check/replace the clutch, get it all ready to go into your truck, and once you swap the drive train, do what ever other connections you need to do, and your only hold up is the rear drive shaft, which you can take your old 2wd shaft and have cut down and balanced, and install. This is assuming that your replacing a 4.0, 2wd in your MJ now. If your replacing a 2.5 or 2.8, then you need to swap over all the wire harness, both engine bay and interior, including the ECU. Replace the cooling system, and a few other items. The '87 should have a NP231 as a stock X-case, unless it has been swapped out. Yea, AX15 are hard to find, and are way better than a BA10, But, My BA10 and others have been holding up, if maintained, they can serve there duty. If you have a D35 with 3.55 gears, the '87 in the add would have 3.07 stock D30 and D35, you can not mix gears in the front and rear, they have to be the same, so you would need to find a D30 with 3.55 to make it match your rear now. Thats an easy find, lots of XJ with 4.0 and automatics would have the 3.55 gears, and that would be a direct bolt in item.

Yes, your tail pipe is back a little too far, about 3-4 inches, and Yes, it should slope down so that the condensation does not collect at the bend. This can be correct at the muffler/tailpipe connection. This is a tool that you can use when you need to cut a stock pipe to length - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=37354 I think you can rent them at Advance :hmm: That expands the pipe to slip over the other pipe, and then your clamp holds it together, or weld the two pieces together. Another trick is to use this product where any cut ends or factory hangers are welded on to the pipe, kind of keeps the corrosion down.

So that's why you were asking about the hood release cable the other day :hmm: Looks really good Don :thumbsup: I take it you had to do a little painting too.......

Front or Rear socket??? If it's the front socket, a Ford (Help section) will fit. I don't know the item number off hand. A rear socket.......you could ask for one from someone here :roll: And don't forget to pack the new one with lots of dielectric grease :D